More Of Tbilisi: Churches, City Views and a Race Against the Rain

Yesterday, my travel companion Diana and I escaped the city for a day exploring the Kakheti Region. Today, however, there is still plenty of Tbilisi left to discover before Diana’s flight home this afternoon.

We have a full day ahead, although our feet might have other ideas!

A Sunday Morning at Metekhi Church

We begin with the traditional bathhouse experience originally planned for last night. The rain and our lengthy detour back to the hotel put paid to those plans. This morning, though, we finally make it.

After a long soak and a morning massage, most of our aches and pains have disappeared. Our blistered feet are the notable exception. We grin and bear it. There is still far too much to see.

Leaving Chreli Abano, we cross the river towards Metekhi Church. Before reaching it, we take a small detour to the shrines beneath the equestrian statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali. The statue stands dramatically above the Mtkvari River, overlooking the old town.

Metekhi is one of Tbilisi’s oldest and most recognisable landmarks. The present Church of the Dormition dates largely from the 13th century, although an earlier church stood here from the fifth century. Tradition associates that original foundation with King Vakhtang Gorgasali, the ruler credited with establishing Tbilisi as his capital.

The church occupies a spectacular rocky outcrop above the river. Its position is as impressive as its history. It has survived repeated destruction and rebuilding, including damage during the Mongol invasions and later periods of Persian rule. Even the Russian imperial authorities once demolished much of the surrounding fortress complex, replacing it with a prison.

Despite the rain the previous evening, today is another glorious summer’s day. Being Sunday, services are in full swing.

Inside, the church is crowded with worshippers. We don’t understand the words, but the singing needs no translation. The voices rise through the ancient stone interior, and we pause to enjoy the extraordinary purity of the sound.

Holy Trinity Cathedral: A Modern Landmark

Back outside, we follow our noses towards a very different church. Behind us is one of Tbilisi’s oldest religious landmarks. Ahead is its newest and arguably most imposing: Holy Trinity Cathedral, better known as Sameba.

Completed in 2004, the cathedral stands on Elia Hill. Its gilded dome and cross dominate the skyline, visible from much of the city. At approximately 86 metres high, it is one of the tallest Eastern Orthodox cathedrals in the world.

The scale is extraordinary. Designed by Georgian architect Archil Mindiashvili, Sameba combines traditional Georgian ecclesiastical architecture with a monumental modern design. Its cruciform layout, central dome and vertical proportions draw on centuries of Georgian church-building traditions. The complex also incorporates nine chapels, some below ground.

The cathedral was conceived as a symbol of Georgian national and spiritual revival. Its construction followed the country’s independence from the Soviet Union. It also commemorates the 2,000th anniversary of Christ’s birth and the 1,500th anniversary of the establishment of the Georgian Orthodox Church.

Services are underway here too. The grounds are busy with genuine worshippers, tourists and people whose purpose is a little less obvious. Perhaps the cathedral precinct also serves as a general meeting place, much like the Spanish Steps in Rome or Trafalgar Square in London.

We step inside once again. The singing and chanting are mesmerising, seemingly coming from the inner sanctum beyond our view. We stand quietly, taking it all in.

Coffee, Kindness and a Hidden Courtyard

It is approaching midday, and we have been walking for a couple of hours. Our priorities are now quite practical: a bathroom first, followed by coffee.

We try our luck at a hotel across the road from the cathedral, but are politely turned away. A nearby laneway offers another possibility. Somewhat desperate, we push open a metal door marked Sophia Hotel.

Beyond it, we discover a little oasis. A charming courtyard sits tucked away from the street, and the host takes pity on us. Diana is allowed to use the facilities, much to our relief.

While I wait, a housekeeper appears carrying a pile of sheets. Before long, she and Diana are folding linen together. It’s an unexpectedly lovely little moment. I make a mental note to investigate the hotel as a possible place to stay on a future visit.

We offer to pay for the kindness, but our money is refused. Sometimes it’s the small gestures that leave the strongest impression. Sophia Hotel has certainly won us over.

Coffee is next, and fortunately we don’t have far to go. We find a lovely little spot nearby, where the walls are covered with notes and drawings left by visitors from around the world. Given the heat, an iced latte is the obvious choice.

Re-energised and suitably caffeinated, we have about two hours before we need to return to the hotel. Diana has one final Tbilisi attraction on her list: the funicular.

The Tbilisi Funicular and Mtatsminda Views

Google Maps estimates the walk at 2.6 kilometres and 35 minutes. We reckon we can do it a little quicker, provided we don’t get lost along the way.

We set off towards the river, passing a rather grand palace-like building before taking an underpass across the water. The underpass itself is decorated with some wonderful street art. Emerging on the other side, however, we are distracted by more artwork for sale along the street.

Naturally, we stop.

We each find a painting to take home as a gift for our respective husbands. It seems a much better souvenir than another fridge magnet. Eventually, we get moving again, heading uphill towards the funicular station.

Given the gradient of the streets, and allowing for our art-shopping detour, perhaps Google’s estimate wasn’t so unreasonable after all.

The Tbilisi Funicular has been carrying visitors up Mtatsminda since 1905. Originally conceived as a way to connect the city with the hilltop recreation area, it has become one of Tbilisi’s best-loved attractions. The railway climbs around 500 metres, taking passengers towards Mtatsminda Park and its panoramic views.

By the time we buy our tickets and wait in the queue, almost an hour has passed. We finally reach the top, looking down over the city towards the Holy Trinity Cathedral. We feel as though we have just completed a marathon.

Mtatsminda sits high above Tbilisi, and the views are spectacular. The park has restaurants, cafés, amusement rides and the enormous Ferris wheel. The television tower is another unmistakable feature of the skyline.

We are tempted to explore, but the skies are darkening around the tower. Sensibly, we decide to head back down before the rain arrives and the queues turn into a panicked rush.

A Very Wet Goodbye

Back at the bottom, we make another questionable decision. A line of taxis is waiting outside, but we ignore them and decide to walk back to the hotel.

We make it about halfway before the heavens open.

Within minutes, we are soaked to the skin. It is rather funny, in a way. We don’t see rain like this in Dubai more than a handful of times a year, so perhaps we should enjoy the novelty. Diana, however, has a flight to catch. Wet jeans in her suitcase and damp shoes on the plane are not quite the souvenirs she had in mind.

We arrive back at the hotel and change out of our drenched clothes. Diana finishes packing, while I keep an eye on the time. Sergo, now our trusty tour guide and airport driver, arrives right on schedule.

Back Out to Explore Tbilisi

I dash outside into the rain to say hello to Sergo and goodbye to Diana. Then I retreat to the dry, put my feet up and enjoy a well-earned cup of tea.

For about an hour, I do absolutely nothing. My feet have earned it.

Before long, the rain clears and the sun reappears. It would be tempting to spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing, but there is one small problem. Tomorrow is Monday, and the museums are closed.

I don’t want to miss a thing, so it’s time to get moving again.

Good To Know

Tbilisi seems to reward curiosity at every turn. A quiet laneway leads to a hidden courtyard. An ordinary walk becomes an impromptu art hunt. An ancient church gives way to a striking modern cathedral. Even a simple search for a bathroom introduces us to unexpected Georgian hospitality.

And as for Sophia Hotel, I’m still thinking about that charming little courtyard. Its friendly welcome, lovely setting and location so close to Holy Trinity Cathedral make it well worth considering for a future stay.

There is clearly more to discover in Tbilisi. Luckily, I’m not finished yet.

For more inspiration, my Georgia Travel Guide brings together the country’s highlights, practical travel advice and links to my other Georgia adventures.

My detailed Kakheti Region day trip is also essential reading if you’re planning to explore eastern Georgia. This is my cornerstone guide to the region, covering Bodbe, Sighnaghi, Nekresi Monastery, Gremi Citadel and the wonderful vineyards and landscapes of Georgia’s celebrated wine country.

For more of Georgia’s historic towns and fascinating architecture, you might also enjoy my articles on Uplistsikhe and Gori and Museums and Monasteries.

Would I Return

Yes.