My first destination this afternoon after exploring some More of Tbilisi is the Museum of Fine Arts. Unfortunately it looks like it’s closed. I check out the Kashueti St George Church briefly and then the Lado Gudiashvilli Art Gallery, giving the National Parliamentary Library of Georgia a miss although there are some cool book topped bollards out the front.
Ludo Gudiashvili was a 20th Century Georgian painter who studied fine art, including a stint in Paris and was influenced by poets and the theater, including opera and ballet. Many of his works concentrate on beautiful, mystical women and in my opinion, they have chosen one of the best to advertise and represent the exhibition (below).
From here I’m directed to the Georgian Fine Arts Museum in 9 April Park where I check out an Italian exhibition and some more paintings by Lado Gudiashvili, a couple of which are particularly famous because they appear on the ₾5 and ₾10 notes. Very cool.
Feeling like I’m not missing anything further on the museum front, I’m ready to continue my afternoon tour with a trip to Mtskheta. The Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and the Jvari Monastery of Mtskheta are tabled as must sees and Mtskheta, the capital of Old Georgia, is only half an hour’s drive from Tbilisi.
Off we go and as soon as we arrive I know I’m in for a treat. Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, the Cathedral of the Living Pillar, is a UNESCO world heritage site and the Cathedral, the burial site of Christ’s mantle was completed in its current form in 1029.
At the entrance I pay ₾15 (AUD$8.50) for an historical tour for which I am not disappointed. For half an hour I am informed about all the most important historical aspects of the building with interesting details pointed out along the way – like the thickness of the walls with air vents and secret access to act as protection in a siege or if the walls of the monastery (also fortress) were breached.
This building is incredible for many reasons. Firstly, it is extremely large given its age. It is built for beauty and the design is of an elongated cross domed style, popular of churches at the time. There are stone carvings both inside and out and the walls are decorated with frescoes, although many of the faces have been whitewashed by the Russian imperialists. The name, Svetitskhoveli translates quite literally to Cathedral of the life-giving (tskhoveli) pillar (sveti) and refers to the wooden pillar that the church is built around.
The story goes that Elias, a Georgian Jew from Mtstkheta was at the crucifixion of Jesus in Jerusalem. He acquired the robe and brought it back to Mtstkheta where his sister, Sidonia, died grasping the robe in a passion of faith. The robe could be removed from her grasp and she was buried with it. A large cedar tree grew from the burial site and was cut down for the building of the cathedral, where one of the columns rose into the air and miraculously returned to the burial site. It was also said that sacred healing liquid flowed from the column. There is now a stone shrine around the column to prevent bits of it being taken as souvenirs.
There are also some extraordinary frescoes. These have been restored after the cathedral was whitewashed in the 19th Century to give it a tidier look. The restored 13th Century depiction of the Beast of the Apocalypse (below) includes figures of the zodiac, not a usual combination or indeed theme of the time.
Monks still live in some of the outer fortress like walls of the complex today. As we’re talking one of the monks comes to inform my guide of the health of another monk that has not been feeling too well.
Just up the road is another Georgian day trip must – Jvari, also another on the UNESCO world heritage list. Unfortunately I might have spent to much time in the gallery because the church itself is now closed. The sun is leaning over the west and isn’t particularly favourable for photos but the views are lovely and the breeze refreshing, it’s been another hot day filled with lots of walking, despite the storm form earlier this afternoon.
We drive back to Tbilisi and Sergo asks if I’m interested in another couple of sights, since Jvari was closed. The first is the Chronicles of Georgia overlooking the city from atop a hill near the reservoir. Sergo says it’s new but when I question how new he says he remembers coming here as a child. I think perhaps in this country, full of history, ‘new’ is a bit relative.
On all the columns are Kings and other historical figures of Georgia, older kings of Kvarli & Kakheti as well as poets, nobles and ‘King Tamar’ the lone female figure among them, reverently referring to as ‘King’.
There is one more stop to make. A little lake just at the back of Mtatsminda Park. Sure enough, on this beautifully balmy summer evening, it is absolutely packed. The parking is a bit awful but the lake looks lovely. BLue and clear there is a little beach across the other side and a few hours ago I would have been tempted to take a dip. Now the sun is starting to sink behind the hills and the paddle boats are being called in in favour of drinks and dinner by the lake. Children are running around and it looks like a miniature fairground is set up at the other end. I can smell the tantalising smoke of barbeques cooking and realise that I’m getting hungry.
Back in the old town it has started raining again. Sergo recommends Samikitno and as he hasn’t eaten either, decides to join me. It is full tonight, friends, families and tourists alike gather around tables of local fare with a glass of wine or pint of beer. It is exceptionally good and completely authentic although our meal takes a while, given how busy it is. By now it’s getting late and I think I could go a khachapuri or two. After dinner he drops me back at the hotel. Although the hotel isn’t far, it’s still raining and I am grateful for the lift.
I flop into bed, having done another 20,000 steps for the day and having booked another day tour tomorrow, it’s definitely time to get some sleep. The tour tomorrow is Uplistsikhi, afterall, 20,000 steps only gets you so far….
Good To Know
Sergo will tailor your day trip to suit you. This trip to Mtskheta was highly recommended after my enthusiasm for the places we visited during our tour of the Kakheti Region and once again, the sights were a treat.
Do check ahead for expected opening times, however, these seem to be somewhat flexible and it’s best to aim for sometime between 10am – 6pm to avoid disappointment. Museums are closed in Tbilisi on Mondays.
Contact Sergo Tabatadze for more details (and please mention that you have been referred by Dukes Global Adventures).
Would I Return?
Yes. Jvari would most definitely be worth returning to when it’s open (preferably morning for better light) and I think I could go another khachapuri about now!