Helsinki

Finland’s capital, Helsinki, sits on a southern peninsula in the Gulf of Finland.  We have arrived at the port and I’m itching to get into the city but as usual, it’s a bit chaotic getting five people ready and out the door in the morning.  Even if everything else is organized for you while you’re cruising.

Eventually we’re dressed and breakfasted, we have remembered jumpers and sunglasses and hats and cameras and we’re on our way, disembarked and searching for a way out of the port.  Theoretically we can walk into Helsinki from here but with the two boys and mum (who has a bad back), we decide to catch the tram.

It’s only a couple of stops from the port at West Harbour to the city and while we approach the city from Kampii, just west of the main train station, once we’re on foot we cross over the city’s central artery, Mannerheimintie, which is flanked by institutions including the National Museum (which traces Finnish history from the Stone Age to the present), the imposing Parliament House and Kiasma contemporary art museum.

Jason & I make a bee line for the first coffee shop we see.  Robert’s coffee is a very cute version in Stockman’s Department Store, the largest department store in the Nordic region.  Both the coffee shop and the department store are tempting to stay and explore more fully but with the kids in tow, we’re up for a day of exploration and we get underway after a pause at the Three Smith’s statue, just outside of Robert’s Coffee.

Shortly after Stockmann’s and its very floral window dressing, we turn left along Pohoisesplanadi and encounter the very picturesque Park Esplanadi which leads to the South Harbour.

There are stops for poses and pictures, for flowers and fountains.  Across the road there is the Havis Amanda fountain surrounded by seals spurting water.  Then on to Kauppatori where morning craft markets are in full swing.

It takes a while to get through the markets but eventually we make our way over to the Skywheel Helsinki, just past the Allas Sea Pool, a new spa complex, where a few keen souls are making the most of what is left of summer in the region.

The boys are excited about the SkyWheel and I buy us all tickets before Grandma, being nervous about heights, decides to chicken out.  The boys are so excited that she allows herself to be talked into it and before long we’re spinning up above the rooftops for a Birdseye view of downtown Helsinki.

After the excitement of the SkyWheel, we decide to split up.  Mum and I have churches and culture in sight and Jason and the boys are going to make their leisurely way back to the ship for lunch and some fun on the obstacle course and other activities available.

We take a short walk up the hill from the South Harbour to Uspenski Cathedral.  This church is one of the largest Orthodox churches in Western Europe and contains some magnificent icons and paintings.  I am reminded of the many Orthodox churches that I have seen in Tbilisi and St. Petersburg, and the Uspenski is no less interesting.

From here we deliberate whether to continue exploring the city or catch the ferry out to Suomenlinna, the sea fortress and museum a little off shore.  The round trip is around an hour and we want to make sure we have seen Helsinki proper so we continue on to busy Senate Square and the neoclassical Helsinki Catherdral which stands in contrast to the Uspenski Cathedral and its ornate cupolas.

The Helsinki Cathedral is one of the most recognizable symbols of Helsinki and today the white columns are in stark contrast to the turquoise of the sky.  We take a quick peek inside but they’re closing due to an organ recital.  We consider staying but decide to press on.  From here we head north and come across City Park with its Kaisaniemi Botanic Garden and wonderful greenhouse.

I need to take a short break and as such, somewhat fortuitously, we find ourselves wandering through the greenhouse.  There are nine separate rooms here, each representing either a continent or sub-climatic zone.  I feel at home in the warm humid air of the subtropical climate although I think it makes mum a bit lightheaded.  We both marvel at the giant waterlillies (Victoria amazonica), big enough to keep a person afloat.  I’m not sure about being set adrift somewhere on one but a lie down in this warm room, floating around on the pond with soothing water trickling sounds seems like a nice idea.

After the Botanic Gardens we wander back through the streets, coming across Railway Square with its statue of Alexis Kivi, the Finnish author, against the backdrop of Suomen Kannsallisteatteri, the Finnish National Theatre with its striking facade, built in 1902 in the National romantic style.

Further on through the Square we weave our way through the streets of the old town between here and Park Esplanadi.  It’s Friday today and the souvenir shops are buzzing with Summer tourists.  We give the full Scandinavian winter gear a miss and buy an assortment of memorabilia including socks, drink bottles, chocolate and some moose biscuit cutters.  Because who doesn’t love a homemade gingerbread moose?

It’s too late now to do the trip out to Suomenlinna.  I would have liked to see this star fortress, built to a similar design as Kastellet in Copenhagen.  It was built in 1748 to defend against the growing Russian forces, now based out of St. Petersburg on the easternmost point of the Gulf of Finland.   When the Russians took Swedish ruled Vyborg in 1710, the Swedes lost their long held power in the Baltic Sea.  After various landings by the Russians along this stretch the Swedes planned a fort as a base for their Finnish feet in the area.  Literally the Castle of Finland, the fort was built by the Swedish when Finland was still a part of the Swedish kingdom.

It was surrendered to the Russians in 1808 and reverted back to the Finnish in 1917.  Today it is a day trip destination for picnickers, tourists and museum buffs alike.  The fortress has cannons, tunnels, a dockyard museums and a brewery.

Left short of time for Suomenlinna but without a plan B we wander some more through the pretty streets.  Coffee shops, bookshops, clothes and knickknacks take up a bit more time as we browse, enjoying the atmosphere.  After a while longer we’re done and as we start searching for either the tram line or a taxi we head in the general direction of the port.

A bit further along we come across some trash and treasure markets and Hietalahti Market Hall.  The hall contains various cafe and food vendors and as we walk around I wish that I was hungry.   Various smells make my mouth water and there are wines, chocolates and other portable delicacies but with customs regulations on the ship, I’m not sure if we’ll be allowed to take it back.

By now it is time to get back.  We start walking, looking for a taxi along the way.  We have no luck and despite mum barely making it with her bad back and me, admittedly having had enough for one day, we end up walking the remainder of the way back, another 2.5km at the end of an already long day.

Back on ship we get a quick couple of obstacle course runs and some bungee trampoline in before dinner and cocktails.  Not too bad for a day onshore, even if it started out a little chaotic.

Would I Return?

Yes.  It was great to be outside exploring the city but there is much more to this city.  The museums, galleries and art scene is world renowned and of course I’d like a chance to check out Suomenlinna.