We dock in Nynäshamn, Sweden. I hear the low grumble of the ship’s motors moving us ever so slowly and carefully towards the port. Usually I’m happy to find my own way but today we’re booked onto a Big Red Bus transfer into Stockholm, an hour away.
It’s 8am Saturday morning as we board the bus and although it might have been just as easy and perhaps a fair bit cheaper to catch the train, you never know with these things. I’m comfortable with the decision as I sit back on the bus, despite the hard plastic seat and the canvas roof that flaps in the wind on the top deck as we head north along the highway.
As we arrive at Central Station it’s still only 9am. The official big red busses don’t start for another hour but we have the option to change busses and complete the red line tour circuit. It’s a good way to get our bearings and we settle in, knowing that we won’t be able to explore all the stops and figuring that once we hit the palace and the old town, known as Gamla Stan, we’re unlikely to decide to get back on the bus until it’s time to return to the port.
The bus takes us through the city and around the outskirts of Gamla Stan. We pass the palace which doesn’t look particularly open yet and cross over to Södermalm, south of the old town, it’s an island all of its own and known for being the arty district of the city. We cross back through the old town and over to Djurgården Island where the Viking Museum, The ABBA Museum, Tivoli Gröna Lund (amusement park) and Skansen (open air history & culture museum and zoo) can be found. It’s tempting to hop off and check some of this out but I have the palace firmly in my sights and after missing Suomenlinna in Helsinki yesterday, I want to prioritize. We stay on the bus and enjoy the elegant sight of Östermalm before jumping off the bus at the Opera House.
The Opera House sits on Gustav Adolf’s torg (square) with its statue of King Gustav II Adolf (1594 – 1632). This was Sweden’s first equestrian statue. Although King Gustav II Adolf was king from 1611, the statue was commissioned in 1757 by the Swedish Assembly (Riksdag), however the first statue was rejected and another one had to be produced.
From Gustav Adolf’s Torg (Square) we walk along Strömgatan with the Grand Hotel in sight. It seems like a good place to look for an ATM and although we don’t find one here, the friendly staff direct us to the nearest cash machine which happens to lead us to the lovely Park Kungsträdgården (the King’s Garden) where we pause at the outdoor cafe for a coffee and treat. It’s a beautiful summer’s day and the group at the table next to us is all dressed up, taking coffee in the park before heading to an afternoon wedding.
We’re finally headed to Kungliga Slottet, the Swedish Royal Palace and the official royal residence. There are 1430 rooms in this palace but the State and Royal Apartments are the main attractions as well as the treasury with various crowns, scepters and other regalia on show, though heavily guarded.
I love a good palace tour and the fact that this one is still used for official receptions and various other banquets and celebrations. The Hall of State was used for the King’s 70th Birthday celebrations in 2016 and up until as recently as 1975 a formal ceremony was held here every year since 1755 to open Parliament. The silver throne that sits on a plinth in the hall dates from 1650. It was given to Queen Kristina on the occatsion of her coronation. Today the hall is undergoing some reconstruction work and isn’t looking quite as photogenic as it might otherwise.
We view the Apartments of the Orders of Chivalry and there are quite a few costumes, garments, medals, shields and insignia on display. The Guest Apartments and State Apartments display various glass, porcelain and silver ware as well as furniture, paintings and tapestries. It’s perhaps the building that is most interesting however. It feels more used and useful than some palaces which were clearly designed more for show and as an expression of wealth and power. This palace is understated in its decorations and somehow feels more authentic because of this. Maybe it’s just the fact that it is still a palace that lends it its authenticity.
Back out on the streets we make our way through the very picturesqe and equally authentic Gamla Stan (old town). This is the oldest part of the city and sits on Stadsholmen, its own island, accessible by bridge and yet mostly only available to pedestrians in the narrow cobbled streets with its colorful facades and the occasional troll standing guard.
In fact, the official name used to be Staden mellan broana, the Town between the Bridges, which is both true and has a much nicer ring to it than another ‘old town’, but there you go.
This is indeed the oldest part of Stockholm, dating back to the 13th century and centered around Stortorget, the town’s medieval main square and the cobbled alleyways historic Northern German architecture (from just across the Baltic Sea) sets the scene for those lined up along benches in the square downing mugs of ale in the last of the summer sun.
To add to the jovial atmosphere in the square, there are various forms of trolls milling around in shop windows and this one, keeping watch on the street. Trolls are mythological creatures from Scandinavian and Nordic folklore. Traditionally large and hairy their temperament is equated to a bear – good natured when left alone but ferocious when meddled with or provoked.
Mum and I follow the cobbled little streets around about and end up at Österlånggatan 17 for something to eat. We can’t go past a plate of Swedish meatballs (to share) and the view across to a water fountain with a statue behind is soothing after the long walk of the morning.
In fact where we are on Österlånggatan (east long street) and the equally originally named Västerlånggatan (west long street) demarcate the original parameters of the medieval settlement here. I like the story of how Stockholm (log island) got its name. The story goes that when the old capital was being plagued by invasions, the king had a log hollowed out and filled with gold. The log was set afloat on the water and where it landed a few days later became the site of the new capital, namely ‘log island’.
After our Swedish meatballs, which are ever so slightly more memorable than the occasional IKEA meatballs that I have been known to consume, we do another lap of Gamla stan, working our way over to Riddarholm Church on the island of Riddarholmen (the Knight’s Islet). This church is where Swedish royalty are interred. Although the island’s original name suggests that the land was used to graze goats, a monetary was built here in 1270 when Magnus Ladulås (Magnus III of Sweden) funded the build and requested that he be buried here.
The church itself is a striking mixture of culture and history. Like most churches it has been expanded over time but the interest here is more in the history than the architecture. Given it is the burial place of monarchs and aristocracy, including Gustav II Adolf, Karl XII, Gustav V and their consorts, it’s expected that there are a few tombs here. In fact, most of the floor is made up of stone slabs that mark one grave or another.
The tombs of Karl Knutsson Bonde and Magnus Ladulås, dating back to 1574, stand in front of the altar. There are also two significant chapels. The Bernadotte Chapel contains members of this royal family from Karl XIV Johan (d. 1844) and Queen Desideria (d. 1860). The Karolinska chapel contain the caskets of Karl XII (d.1718), Fredrik I (d.1751) and Ulrika Eleonora the Younger (d.1741). Underneath the chapel is a crypt which contains further monarchs and family members including Karl X Gustav (d.1660) and Hedvig Eleonora (d.1715), Karl XI (d.1697) and Ulrica Eleonora the Elder (d. 1693). There are five children buried here too who died in their infancy.
Coats of arms of the Seraphim Knights hang on the walls and represent the Orders of Swedish Knighthood.
The island also contains three older palaces (Wrangel, Stenbock and Hessenstein palaces). All three buildings are now used as the country’s courts and some of the other buildings on the island serve as government agencies and institutions.
Regrettably we leave Gamla stand behind as we make our way up Riddarhustorget and over to Helgeansholmen, another of the islets. Along Riksgatan and past the Riksdaghuset (Federal Government Building) and over Riksbron back towards central station where we need to meet the bus.
Along Drottinggatan, a pedestrianised shopping street near central we stop in a few shops to have a look. As we realize it’s time to make our way to the bus stop, we’re confused by the map and a little disoriented by the demonstrations going on in the streets. Always wary of large and potentially violent gatherings, we try to keep away, not before we see the mounted police take off, knocking over a bystander that was a little too close.
We do a large loop around the block to avoid the commotion and the crowds and eventually find our way back to where we’re supposed to be.
After this excitement and another long day of walking, I’m happy to be back on the bus with time to reflect on my photos and the wonderful city of Stockholm.
Good To Know
From the port of Nynäshamn it is possible to catch the train into Stockholm. It’s around an hour, similar to the bus and in hindsight may have given us more time to enjoy the city.
As it turns out Nynäshamn itself is also a beautiful town, equivalent to a summer town, with houses, boats and amenities built around the summer tourist crowd. Worth a visit if you have already seen Stockholm, it even has its own hop on hop off bus from the port. Worth considering if you’re cruising with small children and don’t want to make the commute to the city.
Would I Return?
Yes. There is plenty to do in Stockholm. Aside from Kungliga Slottet and Gamla Stan there are the museums on Djurgarten (ABBA, Vasa and the open air museum) as well as Tivoli. Gamla Stan has an art gallery, several churches and the Nobel Museum and Drottingholm Palace, a little out of the city looks well worth a visit.