Mtskheta Georgia: Exploring Its Ancient Churches

Mtskheta: Georgia’s Ancient Capital and Spiritual Heart

My first destination this afternoon, after exploring some More of Tbilisi, is the Museum of Fine Arts. Unfortunately, it’s closed when I arrive. A little disappointing, but there is plenty more to see.

I take a quick look inside Kashveti St George Church before heading to the Lado Gudiashvili Art Gallery. I also give the National Parliamentary Library of Georgia a miss, although the rather quirky book-topped bollards outside catch my attention. Even the street furniture in Tbilisi seems to have a little personality!

Lado Gudiashvilli Art Gallery

Lado Gudiashvili was one of Georgia’s most celebrated twentieth-century artists. Born in Tbilisi in 1896, he studied painting and sculpture before travelling to Paris in 1919, where he remained until 1926.

Paris was then at the centre of the European artistic avant-garde. Gudiashvili mixed with some extraordinary creative talent, including Amedeo Modigliani, Pablo Picasso and other artists, writers and critics. His time there had a lasting influence on his work, although he continued to draw heavily on Georgian folklore, history and the colourful characters of old Tbilisi.

His paintings are wonderfully distinctive. Many feature beautiful, mystical women, fantastical figures and richly decorative compositions. There is often something theatrical and almost dreamlike about them. In my opinion, the gallery has chosen one of his best works to advertise and represent the exhibition (photo below).

I rather like his style. There is a lovely combination of European modernism and traditional Georgian influences, with a touch of romanticism thrown in for good measure.

Gudiashvili’s career was not without controversy. After returning to Soviet Georgia, he continued to work across painting, theatre and film. In 1946, he accepted a commission to paint the altar of Kashveti Church. At a time when Soviet ideology actively promoted atheism, this was a particularly bold undertaking. His decision to paint religious frescoes brought him into conflict with the authorities and resulted in his removal from his teaching position at the Tbilisi State Academy of Arts.

Georgian Museum of Fine Arts

From here, I’m directed to the Georgian Museum of Fine Arts in 9 April Park. I take the opportunity to check out an Italian exhibition and some more paintings by Gudiashvili. A couple of the works are particularly familiar because they feature on Georgian banknotes. Very cool!

Feeling that I’ve had my fill of galleries for the afternoon, I’m ready to continue my sightseeing with a trip to Mtskheta.

The Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery are firmly on the must-see list. Better still, Mtskheta is only about half an hour’s drive from Tbilisi.

This is no ordinary Georgian town. Mtskheta was the ancient capital of the eastern Georgian kingdom of Kartli and one of the most important centres of early Christianity in the Caucasus. It was here, in the fourth century, that Christianity became the official religion of the Georgian kingdom.

The town’s historical churches are now collectively recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I’m particularly excited to see what awaits.

Feeling like I’m not missing anything further on the museum front, I’m ready to continue my afternoon tour with a trip to Mtskheta. The Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and the Jvari Monastery of Mtskheta are tabled as must sees and Mtskheta, the capital of Old Georgia, is only half an hour’s drive from Tbilisi.

The Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

Off we go, and as soon as we arrive, I know I’m in for a treat.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, often translated as the Cathedral of the Living Pillar, is one of Georgia’s most important religious buildings. It is also traditionally regarded as the burial place of Christ’s robe.

The present cathedral was completed in 1029, although the site has been associated with Christianity for much longer. Its religious significance dates back to the fourth century, when King Mirian III established the first Christian church here following Georgia’s conversion.

The current building was commissioned by Catholicos-Patriarch Melchizedek and constructed between 1010 and 1029. It was designed by the architect Arsukisdze and remains one of the finest examples of medieval Georgian ecclesiastical architecture.

At the entrance, I pay ₾15 (approximately AUD $8.50 at the time) for a historical tour. I’m certainly not disappointed.

For the next half hour, my guide explains the building’s most important historical and architectural features. She points out details I would otherwise have walked straight past, including the extraordinary thickness of the walls, ventilation openings and concealed passages.

A Range of Purposes

These features were not simply architectural flourishes. The cathedral complex also served a defensive purpose. Its fortified walls, narrow openings and internal passages provided protection during sieges and periods of conflict. I am particularly intrigued by the concealed access routes, which could be used if the outer defences were breached.

The building is incredible for several reasons. Firstly, it is enormous, particularly given its age. Its elongated cross-shaped plan, crowned by a central dome, is characteristic of Georgian medieval church architecture.

The exterior is richly decorated with stone carvings, including religious figures, ornamental patterns and sculptural details. Inside, the atmosphere is quite different. The scale is impressive, but it is the surviving frescoes and religious imagery that really capture my attention.

The cathedral has undergone several restorations over the centuries. Its original medieval decorations have suffered damage, and some of the interior paintings were whitewashed during later periods. What remains, together with the restored frescoes, gives a wonderful glimpse into its former splendour.

The name Svetitskhoveli translates as ‘Life-Giving Pillar’. It refers to the sacred wooden pillar around which the original church was supposedly built. And that brings me to one of Georgia’s most fascinating religious legends.

The Living Pillar

The story of Svetitskhoveli is closely connected to the arrival of Christianity in Georgia and the legend of Christ’s robe. According to Georgian Orthodox tradition, a Georgian Jew named Elioz travelled to Jerusalem and was present at the crucifixion of Jesus. He returned to Mtskheta carrying Christ’s robe.

His sister Sidonia received the robe and was so overcome with emotion and religious devotion that she died while clutching it. Despite attempts, the garment could not be removed from her grasp, and she was buried with it.

Over time, a magnificent cedar tree grew from her burial site.

When King Mirian decided to build Georgia’s first Christian church on the spot, the cedar was cut down to provide timber for the supporting columns. However, one of the columns could not be raised into position.

Saint Nino, the woman credited with bringing Christianity to Georgia, prayed throughout the night. According to the legend, the column miraculously rose into place and returned to the exact spot where Sidonia and the robe were buried.

The pillar was also said to have miraculous healing powers, with sacred liquid flowing from the wood. This is the origin of its name, the Life-Giving Pillar.

Today, a stone shrine marks the sacred location within the cathedral. It is quite a contrast to the original wooden pillar, which has long since disappeared. The shrine also helps protect the site from visitors tempted to take a little piece of history home with them!

Frescoes

There are some extraordinary frescoes elsewhere in the cathedral. One particularly fascinating example is the restored thirteenth-century depiction of the Beast of the Apocalypse. The composition includes zodiac figures alongside religious imagery, an unusual combination that makes it particularly intriguing.

The frescoes are a reminder of the rich artistic traditions that developed alongside Christianity in medieval Georgia. They also reflect the country’s position at the crossroads of Byzantine, Persian and local Caucasian cultural influences.

Svetitskhoveli is more than a beautiful church. It has also served as the burial place of Georgian kings and religious leaders, including members of the Bagrationi royal dynasty. For centuries, it has been a focal point of Georgian national and spiritual identity.

Monks still live within parts of the outer fortress-like complex today. As we’re talking, one of the monks approaches to update my guide on the health of another monk who hasn’t been feeling particularly well. It is a lovely little reminder that this is still very much a living religious community, rather than simply a historic monument.

Jvari Monastery

Just up the road is another Georgian sightseeing essential: Jvari Monastery, also included in the UNESCO World Heritage listing.

The monastery occupies a spectacular position on a rocky hill overlooking Mtskheta. From here, the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers meet, creating one of Georgia’s most recognisable landscapes.

The location is particularly significant in Georgian Christian history. Tradition tells us that Saint Nino erected a large wooden cross here following the conversion of King Mirian to Christianity in the fourth century. The cross became an important place of pilgrimage, attracting worshippers from across the Caucasus.

A small church was subsequently built nearby, followed by the larger Jvari church in the late sixth or early seventh century. The present building is one of the earliest surviving examples of the distinctive Georgian cross-domed architectural style.

Its proportions are beautifully balanced, with the central dome rising above the four arms of the cross-shaped structure. The exterior is decorated with carved stone reliefs and inscriptions, including depictions of historical and religious figures.

Unfortunately, I may have spent a little too long in the galleries earlier in the afternoon because the church is now closed.

The sun is leaning towards the west and isn’t particularly favourable for photographs, but the views are lovely and the breeze refreshing. It has been another hot day filled with plenty of walking, despite the storm earlier this afternoon.

I am disappointed not to see inside, but the setting alone makes the detour worthwhile. I make a mental note to return, preferably in the morning when the light should be better.

The Chronicles of Georgia

We drive back towards Tbilisi, and Sergo asks whether I’m interested in another couple of sights, given that Jvari was closed.

Of course I am!

Our first stop is the Chronicles of Georgia, a monumental sculpture complex overlooking the city from a hill near the Tbilisi Sea reservoir.

Created by Georgian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, construction began in 1985. The monument remains unfinished, although that doesn’t detract from its impressive presence.

Sixteen enormous pillars dominate the site, some reaching around 35 metres in height. Their surfaces are covered in intricate sculpted reliefs depicting important moments in Georgian history and Christianity.

The upper sections celebrate Georgia’s royal and historical figures, including kings, queens, nobles, poets and national heroes. The lower sections depict scenes from the life of Christ, reflecting the central importance of Christianity to Georgian identity.

Among the historical figures is Queen Tamar, one of Georgia’s most celebrated rulers. Interestingly, she is referred to as ‘King Tamar’. This isn’t a mistake. The Georgian royal title mepe describes a sovereign ruler regardless of gender, and Tamar ruled in her own right from 1184 to 1213. Her reign marked the height of Georgia’s medieval Golden Age, when the kingdom enjoyed considerable political, military and cultural influence.

Sergo tells me the monument is relatively new. When I question just how new, he explains that he remembers visiting as a child. I think perhaps in a country as steeped in history as Georgia, the definition of ‘new’ is a little relative!

The setting is spectacular, with sweeping views across the reservoir and surrounding countryside. It is an unusual monument, combining monumental Soviet-era sculpture with a celebration of Georgian national identity and religious heritage. I rather like it.

Turtle Lake

There is one more stop to make before heading back into the city: Turtle Lake, tucked away behind Mtatsminda Park.

Sure enough, on this beautifully balmy summer evening, it is absolutely packed.

Parking is a little challenging, but the lake looks lovely. The water is blue and clear, with a small beach on the opposite side. A few hours earlier, I would have been tempted to take a dip.

Now the sun is beginning to sink behind the hills, and the paddle boats are being called in. The atmosphere is shifting from afternoon recreation to evening drinks and dinner by the water.

Children are running around, and a little fairground seems to have appeared at the far end of the lake. Families gather along the water’s edge, while the tantalising smell of barbecues drifts through the air.

Turtle Lake is a popular summer escape for Tbilisi locals. Despite being so close to the city, it feels a world away from the busy streets and historic buildings of the old town.

I can see why everyone has come out to enjoy the evening. It is a lovely spot, and I could quite happily settle in for a drink and dinner myself.

As it happens, I’m starting to feel rather hungry.

Khachapuri and Georgian Hospitality

Back in the old town, the rain has started again. Sergo recommends Samikitno and, as he hasn’t eaten either, decides to join me.

The restaurant is packed tonight. Friends, families and tourists gather around tables laden with local fare, accompanied by glasses of wine and pints of beer.

The atmosphere is wonderfully lively and completely authentic. This is exactly the sort of place I enjoy discovering when travelling: somewhere that feels part of everyday local life rather than somewhere designed exclusively for tourists.

The food is exceptionally good, although service takes a little longer than expected given how busy the restaurant is.

By now, it’s getting late and I reckon I could manage a khachapuri or two!

Khachapuri is one of Georgia’s most famous dishes, and for good reason. It is essentially a cheese-filled bread, although the variations are numerous. From the boat-shaped Adjarian version topped with egg and butter to the round Imeretian style, it is one of those dishes that is difficult to resist.

Georgian food has a wonderful combination of fresh herbs, walnuts, cheese, spices and seasonal ingredients. There is always something new to try, and I am certainly enjoying working my way through the menu.

After dinner, Sergo drops me back at the hotel. Although it isn’t far, the rain is still falling and I am grateful for the lift.

I flop into bed, having clocked up another 20,000 steps for the day. With another tour booked for tomorrow, it is definitely time to get some sleep.

Tomorrow’s destination is Uplistsikhe. After all, 20,000 steps only gets you so far!

Good To Know

Mtskheta makes an excellent half-day or full-day excursion from Tbilisi. The drive takes approximately 30 minutes, making it easy to combine the town’s historic churches with other attractions around the capital.

The main highlights are Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and Jvari Monastery. Both form part of the UNESCO-listed Historical Monuments of Mtskheta, alongside Samtavro Monastery.

Allow time to explore Svetitskhoveli properly. A guided tour is particularly worthwhile, as the religious symbolism, architectural details and history are not always immediately obvious.

Jvari is best visited earlier in the day for better photographic light and to avoid disappointment with closing times. The elevated location can be breezy, even on a hot summer afternoon.

If time permits, the Chronicles of Georgia and Turtle Lake make interesting additions to a day exploring the capital. Both offer something quite different from the historic churches and old town.

Do check opening times ahead of your visit. These can vary, and it is best to allow some flexibility in your itinerary. Museums in Tbilisi are generally closed on Mondays, so check individual venues before setting out.

Contact Sergo Tabatadze for more details. Please mention that you have been referred by Dukes Global Adventures.

For more inspiration, my Georgia Travel Guide brings together the country’s highlights, practical travel advice and links to my other Georgia adventures.

My detailed Kakheti Region day trip is also essential reading if you’re planning to explore eastern Georgia. This is my cornerstone guide to the region, covering Bodbe, Sighnaghi, Nekresi Monastery, Gremi Citadel and the wonderful vineyards and landscapes of Georgia’s celebrated wine country.

Would I Return?

Yes. Jvari would most definitely be worth returning to when it is open, preferably in the morning for better light and the opportunity to explore inside.

I would also happily spend more time in Mtskheta. There is so much history here, and the town deserves more than a quick visit between other attractions.

And, of course, I think I could manage another khachapuri about now!