Kakheti Georgia Day Trip: Monasteries, Wine and History

After spending a little time exploring Tbilisi, my travel companion Diana and I are excited to venture beyond the capital. Today, we’re heading east to explore the Kakheti Region, Georgia’s celebrated wine country.

We are certainly not finished with Tbilisi. The capital has so much history and culture to discover. But we’re beginning to realise that Georgia itself has an extraordinary amount to offer.

Our guide for the day is Sergo, who arrives ahead of schedule. He’s happy to wait while we finish our coffees and gather our belongings. Soon we’re on our way, with a full day of monasteries, mountain scenery, historic towns and, hopefully, a little wine tasting ahead.

Bodbe Monastery: The Legacy of St Nino

Our first destination is Bodbe Monastery, around two hours from Tbilisi and just outside Sighnaghi.

The Monastery of St Nino has a history that stretches back much further than its present buildings suggest. St Nino is one of the most important figures in Georgian Christianity. According to tradition, she arrived from Cappadocia in the fourth century and played a pivotal role in converting the Kingdom of Kartli to Christianity.

Following her death around 338–340 AD, she was buried at Bodbe. King Mirian III, Georgia’s first Christian king, ordered a church to be built over her grave. The present church dates largely from the ninth century, although the monastery’s religious significance began much earlier.

Today, Bodbe remains an active convent and an important pilgrimage destination. We cannot explore the working monastic areas, but we spend time inside the church, taking in its peaceful atmosphere.

Outside, the views across the gorge and valley are beautiful. There is also a much newer church under construction. Six years into the project, it already sits majestically on the hilltop, although the interior is still being completed.

The surrounding gardens are beautifully landscaped and lovingly maintained. It’s a lovely place to pause before continuing our journey.

In this dedicated post, you can learn more about Bodbe Monastery’s history and stories.

Sighnaghi: Georgia’s City of Love

Our next stop is Sighnaghi, which Sergo introduces as Georgia’s ‘City of Love’.

It’s a charming hilltop town overlooking the Alazani Valley, surrounded by the rolling vineyards and mountains of Kakheti. Its cobbled streets, colourful houses and traditional balconies give it a distinctly romantic feel. The nickname is helped along by a 24-hour wedding registry in the central square, allowing couples to marry at almost any time of day or night.

We walk up Kostava Street, stopping in the square outside the town hall. I find some beautiful handmade slippers and, naturally, can’t resist buying a pair.

From there, we continue along Chavchavadze Street towards the tiny St Stephen’s Church, tucked within the town’s historic defensive walls.

The church is modest and rather plain inside. There are two religious icons on the side walls, each with a stand for candles. We exchange a few coins for candles at the entrance and step inside.

It’s barely large enough for us to stand back to back. Yet, in this small, intimate space, I find myself unexpectedly emotional. As I light my candle, I shed a few tears remembering loved ones who have passed away.

It’s a quiet moment, and one that stays with me.

Walking the Sighnaghi Fortress Walls

Back outside, we’re reminded that these walls were built for defence, not simply to provide pretty views.

Sighnaghi’s fortress dates largely from the 18th century, when King Erekle II ordered the town’s fortifications to be strengthened against invasion. The extensive walls once stretched for several kilometres, incorporating numerous towers and gates. They remain among the best-preserved examples of Georgian defensive architecture.

We climb a steep flight of stone steps towards one of the towers. Sergo waits patiently while we take photographs and explore the raised walkway around its interior. Looking down from the tower, the drop to the church below is rather dramatic.

Afterwards, we return to the car through the park on Tsotne Dadiani Street. I notice the quad bikes available for hire to tackle the steep hill we’ve just climbed. I suspect that if the boys had been with us, I wouldn’t have got away with the pleasant walk.

There is more detail on Sighnaghi town and it’s facscinating fortress in this dedicated post.

Ilia Lake: A Welcome Change of Scenery

Leaving Sighnaghi, we have another drive of around 90 minutes towards Ilia Lake.

The reservoir is a popular recreational spot, particularly on a hot summer’s day. We watch visitors swimming in the water, with the surrounding hills providing a beautiful backdrop.

The setting is slightly surreal. On one side, there’s a large ‘I ❤️ Kakheti’ sign. On the other stands a castle-like building, now home to the Royal Batoni Hotel.

Given the heat, Diana and I both wish we’d brought our swimming costumes. However, the lack of suitable swimwear and the rather steep drop down the reservoir wall persuade us against attempting a paddle.

We settle for admiring the scenery before continuing towards our next monastery.

Nekresi Monastery: An Uphill Adventure

Only a short drive away, we reach the foot of the hill leading to Nekresi Monastery.

A very reasonably priced minbus service to the top departs from the carpark. We decide to walk instead. It’s only 1,500 metres, after all!

Our enthusiasm soon fades as the driveway steepens. Halfway up, we’re puffing and dripping with sweat. Passing minibus drivers give us quizzical looks. In hindsight, we should have recognised the warning!

Luckily, Sergo has stopped further down to catch his breath. He persuades a driver to collect him and then come back for us. The driver looks rather bemused, but I’m guessing he’s seen this before. I offer a slightly embarrassed but very grateful madloba – thank you – as we climb aboard.

The monastery is worth the effort. Set on a wooded hillside overlooking the Alazani Valley, Nekresi is one of Kakheti’s most important historic religious complexes.

Its origins reach back to antiquity. The oldest surviving church is a small fourth-century basilica, making it one of the earliest Christian churches still standing in Georgia. Other buildings were added over several centuries, including a three-church basilica from the sixth or seventh century and the Church of the Archangels from the eighth or ninth century.

The complex also includes a bishop’s residence, defensive tower, refectory, monks’ cells and a historic wine cellar. Together, these buildings reveal how a medieval monastery functioned as a religious, agricultural and cultural centre.

We spend an enthusiastic half hour exploring the buildings. Unlike Bodbe, which remains a working convent, Nekresi is now primarily a historic monastic complex and visitor attraction, although religious life continues at the site.

Georgia’s Ancient Winemaking Traditions

One of the most interesting buildings is the wine-making area. Kakheti is renowned for its winemaking, and the monastery provides a fascinating glimpse into how deeply wine production was woven into everyday life.

Inside, we find a large stone winepress used for crushing grapes. A wooden trough appears to have channelled the juice towards openings in the floor, where it could flow into large storage vessels below.

These traditional underground vessels are known as qvevri. Made from clay and buried in the ground, they have been used in Georgian winemaking for thousands of years. The method helps maintain a relatively stable temperature during fermentation and storage.

Outside, there is another arrangement of stone tubs and channels, where grapes could be washed and crushed before the juice was transferred for fermentation.

The church is another highlight. There are two churches within the complex. We take a look inside one of them, admire the architecture and take a few more photographs. Who can resist?

Eventually, it’s time to head down. I’m relieved to take the minibus, although I do regret missing the chance to explore the summit without the crowds.

Back at the bottom, we refill our water bottles and set off again.

Gremi Citadel and Palace: A Medieval Capital

Before long, I look up and gasp at the sight ahead. We’ve arrived at Gremi Citadel and Palace, another delightful combination of church, fortress and hilltop scenery.

This time, we park much closer and the walk is considerably less demanding than Nekresi. A welcome relief.

Gremi was once the capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti and an important trading centre along regional routes. Its history as a political and commercial centre dates from the fifteenth century. Much of the city was destroyed in 1615 by the Persian army of Shah Abbas I, and it never fully recovered.

Today, the surviving citadel gives us a glimpse of its former importance.

The Church of the Archangels stands prominently on the rocky ridge. Built between 1565 and 1577 during the reign of King Levan of Kakheti, it is a fine example of traditional Georgian ecclesiastical architecture. Its stone exterior is imposing, while the interior is richly decorated with frescoes.

The complex also includes a three-storey palace and bell tower, defensive walls and the remains of other buildings. The palace once formed part of the royal residence, while the tower served both defensive and practical purposes.

We explore the small museum, where our entrance fee includes an explanation of the palace and the surrounding history. Afterwards, we climb the steep stone stairs from the main room to two small chambers above. And then there’s the King’s toilet!

It’s a surprisingly spacious arrangement, although I imagine a private facility would have been rather important when surrounded by enemies for an extended period. Even medieval royalty had practical considerations.

The views from the citadel are wonderful, and we take our time enjoying the setting before returning to Sergo.

Tsinandali Palace: Georgian Aristocratic Life

By now, it’s around 4 pm and we’ve been exploring all day. We reach Telavi, where Sergo stops to ask some locals for recommendations on somewhere suitable to eat.

A few streets later, we pull up outside a delightful restaurant. What follows is a feast.

There’s plenty of delicious Georgian food, and they’re even distilling their own chacha. This is a strong spirit made from grape pomace, the skins, seeds and stalks left over from winemaking. It’s often described as Georgian grape vodka or brandy.

A few drops of rain begin to fall as we eat. By the time Diana and I have made good progress through a one-litre carafe of wine, the sky has darkened considerably. It looks as though a storm is approaching.

Are we still interested in seeing more?

Absolutely!

Sergo grins. I think he’s impressed by our enthusiasm, just as we are by his. He’s clearly very proud of his country and genuinely keen to share its history, beauty and culture with us.

Our next stop is Tsinandali, a small village just outside Telavi. It is home to the historic estate of the Chavchavadze family, one of Georgia’s most influential aristocratic families.

Inside the Chavchavadze Family Estate

The estate is closely associated with Prince Alexander Chavchavadze (1786–1846), a nineteenth-century poet, military figure and cultural innovator. He inherited the property from his father, Prince Garsevan Chavchavadze, who served as a Georgian diplomat to the Russian Empire.

Alexander transformed Tsinandali into a centre of Georgian cultural life. The estate became a gathering place for artists, writers, musicians, politicians and aristocrats. Its hospitality and European influences made it quite unlike many other country estates of the period.

The house is presented in the style of its nineteenth-century heyday. We wander through the rooms, imagining the gatherings and conversations that once took place here.

I count no fewer than five pianos scattered throughout the house. Clearly, music played an important role in entertaining the guests.

The estate is equally important for its winemaking heritage. Alexander introduced European techniques and helped pioneer the production of bottled Georgian wine. Tsinandali is widely regarded as a landmark in the development of modern Georgian winemaking.

There is also a family tree downstairs near the entrance to the cellar, offering a glimpse into the history and connections of the Chavchavadze family.

The estate is a fascinating combination of architecture, culture and wine. It provides a very different perspective on Kakheti from the monasteries and medieval fortresses we’ve visited throughout the day.

Ikalto Monastery: One Last Stop

The rain begins in earnest as we leave Tsinandali. Large drops quickly turn into a proper downpour, accompanied by thunder and lightning. Despite the weather, we’re still keen to squeeze in one more stop. Ikalto Monastery is around 20 minutes away and only a short detour before our return to Tbilisi.

Unfortunately, by the time we arrive, it’s after 7 pm and the complex is closed. We can see over the stone boundary wall, though, and even from outside it looks beautiful. Perhaps the dark, swirling clouds make it more atmospheric. The rain adds a rather dramatic backdrop to the ancient stone buildings.

Ikalto has a particularly interesting history. Founded in the sixth century by Zenon, one of the Thirteen Assyrian Fathers, the monastery later became an important centre of learning.

Its academy was established in the eleventh or twelfth century by Arsen Ikaltoeli, a theologian and philosopher. Students studied subjects including theology, philosophy, astronomy, geometry and rhetoric. They also learnt practical skills such as metalworking, ceramics, viticulture and winemaking.

According to Georgian tradition, the celebrated poet Shota Rustaveli, author of The Knight in the Panther’s Skin, studied here.

The academy was destroyed during the Persian invasions of 1616 and never resumed its former role.

The Long and Very Wet Road Back to Tbilisi

As it turns out, by the time we get there (it’s now after 7pm) Ikalto is closed although we can see over the stone fence in the rain.  It’s beautiful, perhaps more so because of the rain with the dark sky swirling behind it.  I’m disappointed but realise how much Sergo has managed to cram into the day for us and so mentally note that this is a must see for next time.

We settle in for the drive back to Tbilisi as the rain becomes heavier.

About 20 minutes into the journey, we reach a small traffic jam. Police are directing vehicles to turn around. There is already flooding, and the mountain pass back to Tbilisi has been closed. We’ll have to take the long route.

What would otherwise have been around a one-hour drive turns into a three-hour journey. Sergo delivers us safely back to the hotel, having spent much of the day driving and the rest following us up mountains, towers and historic sites. We’re thoroughly exhausted, and I suspect he is too.

We thank him once again with a heartfelt madloba and say our goodbyes. Back in our room, we shower and collapse into bed.

It’s been another extraordinary day in Georgia. We’ve explored ancient monasteries, medieval fortresses, a royal estate and some of the country’s most beautiful countryside. We’ve also eaten and drunk extremely well. Not a bad day’s sightseeing at all!

Good to Know

Kakheti is Georgia’s principal wine-producing region and makes an excellent day trip from Tbilisi. However, the distances between attractions mean that a full-day itinerary is best planned carefully.

We travelled with Sergo Tabatadze, who tailored the day around my request to visit Bodbe, Nekresi and Ikalto monasteries, with perhaps a vineyard or two along the way.

Without fuss, he turned this into a full day of sightseeing and exploring. The itinerary included Sighnaghi, Ilia Lake, Gremi and Tsinandali as well. It’s far more than I could have imagined fitting into one day.

Of course, you don’t need to do quite so much. A more leisurely itinerary, with time for wine tasting and lunch at a vineyard, would be equally enjoyable.

I’d recommend discussing your priorities with your guide beforehand. The region has plenty to offer, and travel times between attractions can be longer than they appear on a map.

Our guide: Contact Sergo Tabatadze on Facebook to discuss a private tour. Please mention that you were referred by Dukes Global Adventures.

For more ideas on planning your stay, take a look at my Georgia Travel Guide. It brings together the country’s highlights, practical travel information and links to my other Georgia travel stories.

If you’re planning to venture beyond the capital and love history, other day trips might include Uplistikhe & Gori day trip and Mtskheta’s ancient churches. This is my cornerstone guide to Georgia’s celebrated wine region, exploring its historic monasteries, beautiful hilltop towns, traditional winemaking heritage and spectacular Alazani Valley.

You can also read about our arrival in Georgia, including our first adventures around Kutaisi and the journey towards the Caucasus Mountains.

Would I Return?

Yes.