Arriving In Georgia: Dinosaurs, Georgian Food and the Road to Gudauri

Arriving in Georgia in the middle of the morning, we are greeted by Sergo, our tour guide and transfer professional. We have a long drive ahead, travelling from Kutaisi to Gudauri in the Caucasus Mountains. However, the day is still young. Rather than head straight for the road, Sergo suggests a visit to the nearby Sataplia Caves, followed by lunch in Kutaisi.

It seems a rather excellent way to begin our Georgian adventure.

The Flight: Abu Dhabi t Kutaisi

We are up ridiculously early, leaving at 1.30am for our flight from Abu Dhabi to Kutaisi. Thankfully, the journey is largely uneventful. The highlight is the spectacular scenery below as we fly over Iran, Azerbaijan and Turkey.

It is always exciting to arrive somewhere new, and Georgia is no exception. We have barely landed before our first little adventure begins. There is no time to waste, particularly with snow-capped mountains waiting at the other end of our journey.

Sataplia Caves: A Prehistoric Surprise

Sataplia Caves lie a short drive from Kutaisi, making them an easy detour on our journey north. The reserve is around 20 minutes from the city and approximately 40 minutes from the airport.

As we arrive, we step out into the fresh Georgian air and take in our surroundings. We have a little time to spare before the next guided tour, as visitors explore the caves as part of an organised visit.

The tour begins with something rather unexpected: dinosaur footprints.

Walking in the Footsteps of Dinosaurs

In 1933, local teacher and natural scientist Petre Chabukiani discovered fossilised dinosaur footprints on Sataplia Mountain. His discovery followed an earlier exploration of the caves in 1925. The findings were significant enough to prompt further scientific investigation and, ultimately, the establishment of Sataplia Nature Reserve in 1935.

The footprints were left in soft sediment during the Cretaceous period, more than 100 million years ago. Over time, that sediment hardened into limestone, preserving an extraordinary record of prehistoric life.

The subsequent research identified several types of dinosaur tracks. These included herbivorous and carnivorous species, with later studies describing new dinosaur species from the fossil evidence.

It is quite something to stand beside these impressions and imagine dinosaurs wandering across this landscape so many millions of years ago. The boys are understandably fascinated. I suspect the footprints are a rather more compelling history lesson than anything they have encountered in a classroom.

Through the Colchic Forest

From the footprints, we follow a pretty forest path towards the caves. The reserve protects part of the distinctive Colchic forest, a lush, ancient woodland ecosystem associated with the western Caucasus.

The vegetation is dense and wonderfully green. We also learn about a particular species of pine growing here. Some of the trees look like tiny saplings, despite being several hundred years old. It is a reminder that appearances can be deceptive, particularly in a forest where nature takes its time.

The walk offers some lovely views across the surrounding landscape. At one point, the trees open up to reveal the valley below, with Kutaisi spread out in the distance.

There is also an interesting story behind the name Sataplia. It translates roughly as ‘land of honey’, referring to the wild bees that once inhabited the mountain’s rocky crevices. Local villagers traditionally collected honey from the area, and generations of beekeeping helped give the mountain its name.

The caves, therefore, take their name from the mountain rather than the other way around. It is a small detail, but one I rather like.

Exploring the Sataplia Caves

Eventually, we reach the caves themselves. Inside, the temperature drops and the atmosphere changes. The limestone formations are spectacular, with stalactites hanging from the ceiling and stalagmites rising from the cave floor.

Some formations are tiny and still developing, while others are enormous, having taken countless centuries to form. In places, the calcium deposits resemble a fantasy garden, with intricate shapes and textures illuminated by the cave lighting.

The formations are the result of water slowly dissolving and redepositing minerals in the limestone. It is a process that takes an almost unimaginable amount of time. What looks like an elaborate underground sculpture is, in fact, nature working patiently over thousands of years.

The accessible visitor route gives us a fascinating glimpse into this underground world. However, I am conscious that we are seeing only a small part of the wider cave system beneath these hills.

Georgia is particularly rich in karst landscapes and underground caverns. The nearby Prometheus Cave is another famous attraction, with an extensive network of illuminated chambers and even an underground lake. It immediately goes onto my list for another visit.

The Panoramic Glass Viewing Platform

Another highlight of Sataplia is its panoramic viewing platform. The glass structure projects out from the mountainside, offering uninterrupted views across the forest canopy and the Imereti landscape.

The boys love the idea. I am rather less enthusiastic.

I watch them head towards the platform while I take a moment to consider whether this is really something I want to do. Eventually, I summon enough courage to follow. I manage a few photographs, although I cannot say I fully appreciate the experience.

The views are undoubtedly impressive. The sensation of standing on glass above the mountainside, however, is quite another matter. My queasiness only disappears once both feet are firmly back on solid, opaque ground.

Some adventures are best enjoyed from a sensible distance!

Lunch at Löwenbräu: A Taste of Georgia

You might expect a restaurant called Löwenbräu Pub to serve a distinctly Bavarian menu. There is certainly a hint of Munich about the name. However, here in Kutaisi, Georgian food is firmly in the spotlight.

We settle in for a generous lunch, ordering a selection of local favourites. Naturally, khinkali makes an appearance. These traditional Georgian dumplings are filled with seasoned meat and broth. Eating them properly is something of an art, as you need to bite carefully and drink the delicious juices without losing the filling.

We also order a cucumber and tomato salad with walnuts, cheesy roasted mushrooms and pork ojakhuri. The latter combines succulent pieces of pork with roasted potatoes and onions. It is simple, hearty and absolutely delicious. It will become one of my favourite Georgian dishes during the trip.

The bread deserves a mention of its own. It is wonderfully fresh and utterly moreish. The local Natakhtari beer is also pretty good. I suspect the Germans would approve, although perhaps we should keep that particular opinion to ourselves!

The boys have their own culinary discovery. They are introduced to feijoa lemonade, a fragrant and slightly unusual fruit drink. They enjoy it immensely, and it quickly becomes another Georgian favourite.

It is a very satisfying introduction to the country’s food. Georgian cuisine has plenty more to offer, as we discover throughout the trip. From dumplings and cheese-filled breads to walnuts, herbs and slow-cooked meats, there is a wonderful mix of flavours and influences.

The boys are introduced to feijoa lemonade and enjoy it immensely.

The Road to Gudauri

After making the most of our first few hours in Georgia, it is finally time to continue towards Gudauri. The drive from Kutaisi takes around six hours, depending on traffic and road conditions.

The first section follows the main highway towards Tbilisi. Much of the route is straightforward, although roadworks and ongoing upgrades slow us down in places. The real challenge comes later, as we turn north towards the mountains.

By Saturday evening, we encounter a long stream of trucks heading towards the Russian border. Restrictions on heavy vehicle movements during parts of the day can cause traffic to build up later. The road towards Gudauri becomes painfully slow.

We have been catching glimpses of snow along the way, but the mountains are now getting closer. One of the boys is particularly excited. Harley is desperate to see and experience some proper snow, rather than simply admire it from the car window.

Zhinvali Reservoir: A Scenic Mountain Stop

The reservoir sits in the Aragvi River valley, surrounded by steep green hills and the foothills of the Greater Caucasus. Its striking colour makes an immediate impression, particularly against the winter scenery.

It is also more than just a pretty viewpoint. The reservoir forms part of the Zhinvali hydroelectric complex, which was completed in 1985. Built across the Aragvi River, it provides water for Tbilisi, supports irrigation and generates hydroelectric power.

The landscape has therefore changed considerably since the reservoir was created. Today, its broad expanse of water is one of the most recognisable sights on the road north from Tbilisi.

For us, though, the immediate attraction is the combination of snow, mountains and the beautiful reservoir below. Harley is delighted to finally get his hands on some real snow. We are equally happy to stretch our legs and take in the views.

It is a welcome break before the final push to Gudauri.

The Final Climb into the Caucasus

Back on the road, Sergo proves his worth. He knows the route and seems familiar with the tricks of navigating the heavy traffic. Progress remains slower than we would like, but we gradually make our way past the trucks.

Had Jason or I been driving, I suspect we might still be sitting in that queue well into the night. Finally, we arrive in Gudauri at around 8.30pm. It has been a long day, but a very good one. Our accommodation is fantastic, and we are immediately distracted by the sight of night skiing on the illuminated slopes.

The boys are thrilled. After an early start, a flight, dinosaur footprints, caves, a glass platform, a substantial Georgian lunch and six hours on the road, they still have enough energy to marvel at the skiers.

We get everyone settled into bed, ready for an early start and our first day of skiing in Georgia.

Good To Know

Where is Sataplia? Sataplia Managed Reserve is in the Imereti region, near Kutaisi. It is an easy excursion from the city and a practical stop if you are arriving at Kutaisi Airport.

What can you see? The reserve combines fossilised dinosaur footprints, a karst cave, forest walking trails, an exhibition area and a glass panoramic viewpoint. It makes a particularly good family visit.

How long should you allow? Allow around two hours for the main visitor route, although this depends on tour arrangements and how long you spend exploring.

What should you wear? Comfortable walking shoes are useful for the forest paths and cave visit. The cave is cooler than the outside temperature, so a light layer is worth taking.

How long is the drive to Gudauri? Allow around six hours from Kutaisi, although traffic, weather and road conditions can extend the journey. Winter travel in the mountains requires particular care.

Where can you find more Georgia travel inspiration? Start with my Georgia Travel Guide, which brings together our experiences across the country. For more of the country’s wine, food and regional culture, see my Kakheti Region guide.

You can also read about our Uplistsikhe and Gori day trip, explore Georgia’s museums and monasteries, or discover what it is like to spend time on the slopes in Skiing Gudauri.

We travelled with Sergo, who organised our airport transfer, sightseeing and journey to Gudauri. He also offers transfers and day tours around Georgia. At the time of our trip, his WhatsApp number was +995 599 391 519.

Would I Return?

Yes. Sataplia is an enjoyable introduction to Georgia, particularly for families. The combination of dinosaur footprints, forest trails and underground caves makes it a worthwhile stop when travelling through Kutaisi.

I would also love to explore the nearby Prometheus Cave. Its underground lake and extensive chambers sound particularly appealing.

As for Gudauri, we have barely arrived and already the illuminated ski slopes are calling. Tomorrow, we get to discover them for ourselves. It will be Snow Much Fun.