Skiing Gudauri, Georgia: A Perfect Day on the Slopes

We are all in love with skiing Gudauri this Valentine’s Day. The snow is deep, the sun is shining and the slopes are calling. I feel as though I am on top of the world.

After a hearty breakfast at The Loft, we set out together as a family. Getting everyone into ski gear is always something of a mission. Boots, helmets, gloves, goggles and all the layers seem to take forever. Thankfully, our ski-in/ski-out accommodation makes the process considerably easier.

Eventually, we are all booted, zipped and ready to go. That first rush down the slopes towards the chairlift makes the effort worthwhile. There is something wonderfully exhilarating about starting a day in the mountains, with fresh snow underfoot and the Caucasus stretching out around us.

Pirveli: Finding Our Skiing Feet

We head up the Pirveli chairlift, where we split into two groups. Harley and I stay on the gentler green run, while Jason and Jasper head further up the mountain in search of steeper slopes and a little more excitement.

I am still warming up for the morning. The piste has been groomed overnight, and with the recent warm days, plenty of sunshine and no fresh snowfall, the surface is a little icy in places.

Nevertheless, we enjoy a couple of good runs. It is not particularly busy yet, and we are finding our rhythm.

By the time we reach the chairlift for our third ascent, the initial crowds have thinned. The queues have disappeared, leaving us with more time on the slopes and less time waiting.

The ride up is a pleasure in itself. Looking back down the mountain, I can see the runs winding through the snow. Across the valley, New Gudauri sits beneath the surrounding peaks. The views are spectacular, and I find myself wishing the chairlift journey could last just a little longer.

Xada Café: Hot Chocolate and Khinkali

By mid-morning, we are ready for a little warmth and refreshment. We arrange to meet Jason and Jasper at Xada Café, beside the Soliko lift.

A round of hot chocolates is quickly ordered, along with some khinkali. These traditional Georgian dumplings are filled with seasoned meat and delicious broth. They make a wonderfully satisfying snack after a few hours in the cold.

There is something rather novel about sitting outside in the snow, perched on beanbags and crate tables. The mountain views are exquisite, the hot chocolate is warming and the food hits the spot.

I am quite happy to linger a little longer. Skiing is wonderful, but so are the occasional pauses that allow you to appreciate where you are.

And what better place to enjoy a little Georgian hospitality than halfway up a mountain?

Soliko: Taking on the Higher Slopes

Rested and re-energised, it is time to step things up a notch. We all jump onto the Soliko chairlift and head further up the mountain.

My heart gives a little flutter as I contemplate the runs ahead. I am ready for a challenge, although perhaps not quite as ready as Jason and Jasper.

The Soliko and Sportuli runs are great fun. They offer wide, open pistes, with some steeper sections to keep things interesting. The gradients ease off at regular intervals, giving us a chance to catch our breath and enjoy the ride.

I find myself concentrating rather hard on the steeper sections. However, every now and then I manage to look up and take in the scenery.

The mountains rise around us, the town sits below and the sunlight sparkles across the snow. It really is a thrill to be here.

Gudauri is a spectacular place to ski. Set high in the Greater Caucasus, the resort is known for its open mountain terrain and sweeping alpine views. Unlike many European resorts, much of the skiing takes place above the tree line. This gives the slopes a wonderfully expansive feel, with far-reaching views in every direction.

The resort has developed considerably since its first ski lift opened in 1988. Today, its modern lift network connects a wide range of pistes for beginners and more experienced skiers. It is easy to see why Gudauri has become one of Georgia’s best-known winter destinations.

By mid-afternoon, however, my knees are beginning to feel the challenge. In the interests of safety, I decide to head back down for another green run or two before calling it a day.

There is no point pushing my luck. I have enjoyed a fantastic day, and I would rather finish with a smile than a spectacular fall!

A Valentine’s Day to Remember

As I make my way back towards the lower slopes, I reflect on just how fortunate we are to be spending Valentine’s Day here.

The combination of sunshine, deep snow and spectacular mountain scenery makes for a memorable family ski holiday. We have enjoyed different runs, a little Georgian food and plenty of time together on the mountain.

There is something rather lovely about sharing a day like this. While the boys are increasingly confident on their skis and snowboards, Jason and I are enjoying the experience in our own ways.

Gudauri has certainly captured our hearts. And on Valentine’s Day, that seems rather appropriate.

Good To Know

Where is Gudauri? Gudauri is a ski resort in the Greater Caucasus Mountains of Georgia, approximately 120km north of Tbilisi along the Georgian Military Highway.

How far is Gudauri from Tbilisi? Allow around two and a half hours by road, depending on traffic and weather conditions. The journey from Kutaisi is considerably longer. We took around six hours on our arrival, although the usual journey estimate is closer to four and a half to five hours.

When is the ski season? The main season generally runs from December into April. Snow conditions and lift operations vary with the weather, so check the official resort updates before travelling.

Are there runs for beginners? Yes. Gudauri has green beginner slopes as well as blue, red and black runs for more experienced skiers. There are also ski schools and equipment hire facilities. The official Gudauri resort information and lift status is a useful link. Lift operations and trail availability can change with weather conditions so check updates regularly.

Where should you stay? We stayed at The Loft, which offered convenient ski-in/ski-out access. Gudauri and New Gudauri have a range of hotels and apartments, many close to the lifts and restaurants.

What about food on the mountain? There are several mountain cafés and restaurants where you can stop for a hot drink or a meal. Do try khinkali, one of Georgia’s most famous dishes.

For more information about the country, start with my Georgia Travel Guide. If you are looking to explore beyond the mountains, my Kakheti Region guide introduces Georgia’s wine country, historic towns and beautiful landscapes.

You can also read about our arrival in Georgia and the journey from Kutaisi to Gudauri, or discover the capital in my article about Tbilisi.

We arranged our transfers with local tourism professional Sergo Tabatadze (WhatsApp +995 555 635 960).

Would I Return?

Yes. Absolutely.

Gudauri has everything I want from a winter escape: beautiful snow, wide-open slopes, spectacular scenery and a relaxed mountain atmosphere. Add in the Georgian food and hospitality, and it is a rather winning combination.

I would happily return for another day on the slopes. Preferably with the sun shining and my knees feeling a little less tired!