Exploring Old Tbilisi: Churches, Sulphur Baths and Narikala Fortress

I awake on my first morning in Tbilisi, Georgia, excited to explore everything my first impressions of the city have promised. My travel companion, Diana, has arrived during the night. Despite a rather restless sleep, I’m far too excited to spend much time in bed.

We organise ourselves and head downstairs to the hotel’s beautifully Art Deco-inspired breakfast room. The décor is lovely, and the breakfast offerings are equally impressive. Outside, the terrace offers a welcome combination of sunshine and shade. We settle at a table in the dappled morning light, enjoy breakfast and start planning the day.

There is plenty to discover in Tbilisi, and we’re keen to make the most of it.

Discovering the Streets of Old Tbilisi

Our plan is relatively straightforward. We’ll explore the Old Town, visit the fortress and a museum or two, and finish the day with a traditional sulphur bath, complete with scrub and soak, before dinner.

Neither of us is particularly interested in following a rigid itinerary. Part of the pleasure of exploring Tbilisi is simply wandering its atmospheric streets and seeing what catches our attention.

We set off, stopping first for some obligatory balancing photographs in front of the casino. A statue or two provides further photographic opportunities before we reach the famous clock tower. It’s considerably quieter at this time of the morning, making it much easier to appreciate its wonderfully eccentric construction.

We continue along the cobbled streets, ducking into shops and churches that take our fancy. A proper coffee is also high on the agenda. The Americano served at breakfast is probably the only disappointment in an otherwise excellent hotel offering.

Diana spots a little hole-in-the-wall apoteke (pharmacy) and pops inside to collect a couple of essentials. I follow her in and discover a wonderful wall of traditional herbal remedies. The aromas are quite something, and the little shop offers a glimpse into a rather different approach to everyday healthcare.

It’s these small discoveries that make exploring a new city so enjoyable.

St. Gevorg Armenian Cathedral

One of the pleasures of wandering through Old Tbilisi is discovering its extraordinary collection of churches. They aren’t all Georgian Orthodox, either. Tbilisi has long been a meeting place for different cultures and religions, and its religious architecture reflects that history.

We come across St. Gevorg Cathedral, also known as Surb Gevorg, one of the oldest Armenian churches in the city.

Dating from the 13th century, the cathedral was founded in 1251 and has served as an important spiritual and cultural centre for Tbilisi’s Armenian community. It is now the headquarters of the Armenian Apostolic Church Diocese in Georgia.

The church has a fascinating history, having survived centuries of political upheaval and changing fortunes. Its recent restoration has also helped preserve an important part of Tbilisi’s multicultural heritage.

The architecture is distinctive, with its traditional Armenian church design, domed structure and beautiful stonework. Inside, the atmosphere is markedly different from the busy streets outside. There is something particularly appealing about these older places of worship. They invite you to pause, look around and appreciate the craftsmanship and devotion that have gone into their creation.

Tbilisi’s religious diversity is one of the things that makes the city so interesting. Georgian Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic and other religious communities have all left their mark on its streets.

Exploring the Tbilisi Sulphur Baths

From the church, we make our way down towards the famous sulphur baths, one of Tbilisi’s most distinctive attractions.

The city’s name is closely connected to its naturally warm mineral springs. According to local legend, King Vakhtang Gorgasali discovered the hot springs while hunting in the area. A wounded pheasant was said to have fallen into the warm water and recovered, prompting the king to recognise the potential of the location. The name Tbilisi derives from the Georgian word tbili, meaning warm.

Whether the story is entirely true or not, the springs have been central to the city’s identity for centuries.

We descend the steep steps towards the little sulphur creek that runs through the area. The distinctive smell of sulphur wafts through the warm morning air, providing an unmistakable introduction to this part of the city.

Following the path around the back of the Chreli Abano bathhouse, we admire its striking azure tiled façade from the opposite side of the creek.

The bathhouse is one of Tbilisi’s most recognisable architectural landmarks. Its distinctive domed roofline, with its traditional brick construction and colourful tiled entrance, is quite unlike anything else in the Old Town. The design is practical as well as attractive, with the domes allowing natural light and ventilation into the bathing rooms below.

The tradition of bathing here stretches back centuries. Public bathhouses were once an important part of everyday life, providing somewhere to wash, relax and socialise. Their popularity attracted travellers and visitors from far beyond Georgia, and the baths became an integral part of the city’s cultural identity.

We follow the creek a little further and discover the rather obligatory love-lock bridge. A little beyond that is the Dzveli Tbilisi Sulphur Waterfall, tucked away in a surprisingly pretty little gorge.

The waterfall is a lovely discovery, with water cascading over the rocky walls into the stream below. It’s an unexpected pocket of nature in the middle of the city.

A peacock, which we’d spotted being walked along the street on someone’s arm a little earlier, is now perched on the balustrade. Tourists are busy taking photographs with it.

We take our own photographs of the waterfall and start making our way back. Along the way, we encounter a monkey riding on a man’s shoulder and a rather large green parrot perched on another man’s shoulder. Presumably, they’re all destined to join the peacock in the paid photographic entertainment business.

I’m not particularly keen to shake the monkey’s hand. This is partly because I don’t agree with the concept and partly because I suspect the pleasure might come at a price!

Diana disagrees, and we have a brief discussion before continuing our climb. A rather rickety spiral staircase near the love-lock bridge takes us upwards towards what we hope is the entrance to the fortress.

The views along the way are worth the detour.

Climbing to Narikala Fortress and St Nicholas Church

Finding our way around Tbilisi isn’t always straightforward. There are signs pointing towards various attractions, but we’ve already discovered that they aren’t necessarily reliable or particularly helpful.

After climbing what looks as though it should be the entrance to the fortress, we’re immediately intercepted by an elderly lady selling souvenirs. She speaks either Georgian or Russian, and everyone seems to assume that I’m Russian. She launches into an enthusiastic sales pitch, leaving us little opportunity to browse at our own pace.

I might well have bought something if given the chance, but the persistent attention sends us retreating. Even then, she continues to pursue us.

As she turns her attention to the next unsuspecting tourists, we seize our opportunity and duck up a driveway that may or may not lead where we want to go.

As we approach the top, a car comes making its way down the hill. For a moment, I wonder whether we’ve accidentally wandered onto private property. Then I spot the telltale ice-cream umbrella and a few people sitting around with bottles of water.

I turn the corner and there it is: Narikala’s St Nicholas Church, with the remains of the fortress rising behind it. The upper reaches of the citadel are still a little further uphill.

St Nicholas Church

We cover our heads and step inside the church. The contrast between the brilliant sunshine outside and the dim interior is immediate. I need a moment for my eyes to adjust.

Photography isn’t permitted, so we put our cameras away and take a few moments to appreciate the surroundings.

The interior is cool and peaceful, with religious paintings and biblical scenes decorating the walls. The atmosphere offers a welcome contrast to the busy streets and tourist activity below.

The church is relatively modern in its present form, having been reconstructed in the 1990s on the site of an earlier medieval church. Its traditional Georgian Orthodox design, with its domed structure and richly decorated interior, sits comfortably within the historic fortress complex.

Back outside, we take a few photographs of the magnificent views across Tbilisi before climbing further through the fortress ruins.

Narikala Fortress

Narikala is one of the most important historic landmarks in Tbilisi. Perched high above the Old Town, it has watched over the city for centuries.

Its origins date back to the fourth century, although much of what remains today reflects successive periods of rebuilding and expansion. The fortress occupied a strategically important position overlooking the Mtkvari River and the historic trade routes that passed through the city.

Over the centuries, it has been occupied and modified by successive rulers, including Georgian kings, Arab emirs and Persian forces. Its defensive walls were repeatedly damaged during invasions, particularly during the devastating 1827 earthquake, which left much of the complex in ruins.

Today, the remaining walls and towers provide a fascinating glimpse into Tbilisi’s military past.

We climb as high as we dare, navigating the uneven stonework and taking in the panoramic views. From here, the Old Town spreads out below us, with its distinctive rooftops, church towers and colourful buildings. The river winds through the city, while the surrounding hills provide a dramatic backdrop.

It’s a wonderful vantage point and well worth the climb.

Mother of Georgia: Kartlis Deda

Having explored the fortress, we retrace our steps down the driveway and spot a path crossing the hillside rather than descending towards the town. It’s rather curiously marked ‘Kartlis Deda’, so naturally we follow it.

A few minutes later, we arrive at the top of the chairlift. Below us, the Botanical Gardens stretch down into the ravine and climb up the opposite hillside. Somewhere down there, presumably, is the waterfall we visited earlier.

From here, we can also see where the path continues towards Kartlis Deda, the enormous Mother of Georgia statue.

Standing proudly on Sololaki Hill, this aluminium figure of a woman in traditional Georgian dress is one of Tbilisi’s most recognisable landmarks. Erected in 1958 to commemorate the city’s 1,500th anniversary, the statue is a powerful symbol of Georgian identity and hospitality.

In one hand, she holds a bowl of wine to welcome friends and guests. In the other, she carries a sword for those who arrive as enemies.

It’s a wonderfully succinct representation of the Georgian character: generous and welcoming, but fiercely protective of its independence and heritage.

At around 20 metres tall, the statue dominates the hillside and can be seen from many parts of the city. From this vantage point, we appreciate just how strategically the Old Town sits beneath the surrounding hills.

Descending to Rike Park by Cable Car

Having walked our way up the hill, we’re quite happy to take the easier option back down.

The chairlift provides a welcome break for our increasingly weary legs and carries us towards Rike Park, on the opposite side of the Mtkvari River.

The journey offers another lovely perspective of the city. From above, the jumble of historic rooftops and narrow streets gives way to a broader view of Tbilisi’s changing architecture.

Rike Park itself is a relatively modern addition to the city, with open green spaces and contemporary design contrasting with the historic buildings across the river.

We’re not quite ready for lunch, so we cross back towards the Old Town and continue our sightseeing.

Ioseb Grishashvili Museum of Tbilisi History

Our next stop is the Ioseb Grishashvili Museum of Tbilisi History, also known as the Tbilisi History Museum.

The museum offers an opportunity to explore the city’s development through archaeological finds, historical objects, artworks and everyday artefacts. Given Tbilisi’s long and complicated history, there’s plenty to discover.

On entering, we pass an apparently unmanned ticket desk and decide to start exploring. A couple of minutes into the first room, however, we’re approached by a rather stern-looking lady asking to see our tickets.

Unfortunately, we haven’t purchased any. We’re promptly marched back to the ticket desk, where one of the clerks, who has been chatting away in the back room, is summoned to attend to us. We exchange glances, somewhat amused and slightly relieved that this little display of disapproval is the worst of our misdemeanours.

The museum itself has some interesting displays and artefacts, although I feel it could benefit considerably from more comprehensive written explanations. Some of the labelling is rather haphazard, making it difficult to put individual objects into their historical context.

There is, however, a particularly confronting photographic exhibition. Unlike some of the other displays, this one has accompanying commentary and explanations, so we spend quite some time reading and absorbing the stories.

The visit finishes on a rather more enjoyable note with a browse through the quality souvenir shops downstairs. We find several lovely things to take home and then discover a supremely comfortable couch. It’s the sort of couch that threatens to swallow you whole. Given how much walking we’ve already done, we’re both rather tempted to stay there for the afternoon.

Lunch at a Friend’s House

Eventually, hunger wins.

We’re both more than ready for a rest and some proper Georgian food, so we head to Friend’s House for lunch. Khinkali and khachapuri are firmly on the menu. The khinkali, those wonderfully generous Georgian dumplings, are delicious, as is the rich, cheesy khachapuri. It’s exactly what we need after a morning spent climbing hills, exploring churches and navigating cobbled streets.

Georgian food is quickly becoming one of the highlights of the trip. The combination of fresh ingredients, herbs, walnuts, cheese and wonderfully comforting breads makes it difficult to resist trying a little of everything.

With lunch finished, we still have the Georgian National Museum on our afternoon itinerary.

We also make a quick stop at Carrefour to collect a few bits and pieces before returning to the hotel. A little rest is definitely in order before changing and heading out for our much-anticipated sulphur bath experience.

The day has been glorious, and the evening promises to be just as lovely.

For another perspective on the city, my follow-up article, More of Tbilisi: Exploring the City, continues the exploration with more of the capital’s churches, landmarks and neighbourhoods. I also visit several important religious and cultural sites in Museums and Monasteries.

Good to Know: Exploring Old Tbilisi

Getting around: Much of Old Tbilisi is best explored on foot. The streets are often cobbled, and the hills around Narikala involve some fairly steep climbs. Comfortable walking shoes are essential. Allow plenty of time for stops and photographs.

Narikala Fortress: The fortress is one of the best places to enjoy panoramic views across Tbilisi. You can walk up from the Old Town or use the cable car from Rike Park. The chairlift is a particularly welcome option after a long day of sightseeing.

Sulphur baths: A visit to the traditional sulphur baths is one of the quintessential Tbilisi experiences. There are several bathhouses in the Abanotubani district, offering private bathing rooms and traditional scrub treatments. Booking ahead is sensible, particularly during busy periods.

Church etiquette: Many Georgian and Armenian churches expect modest dress. Shoulders and knees should be covered, and women are generally expected to cover their heads. Enforcement varies, but it’s respectful to follow local customs.

Some churches provide baskets of headscarves and apron-like coverings near the entrance. However, I recommend carrying a small, lightweight scarf with you. A simple European-style head covering is generally sufficient; there is no need to cover your entire head and neck as you might when visiting some mosques.

Allow time: Tbilisi has far more to offer than you might initially expect. Don’t try to squeeze everything into one day. The Old Town rewards leisurely exploration, with little churches, courtyards, cafés and architectural details waiting to be discovered.

For more ideas on planning your stay, take a look at my Georgia Travel Guide. It brings together the country’s highlights, practical travel information and links to my other Georgia travel stories.

If you’re planning to venture beyond the capital, my Kakheti Region day trip is a particularly good place to start. This is my cornerstone guide to Georgia’s celebrated wine region, exploring its historic monasteries, beautiful hilltop towns, traditional winemaking heritage and spectacular Alazani Valley.

You can also read about our arrival in Georgia on another trip, including our first adventures around Kutaisi and the journey towards the Caucasus Mountains.

Would I Return?

Yes. It takes a LOT of churches to wear me out, although I must admit that today’s 20,000 steps have come at a price. There are a few blisters to show for our efforts.

Tbilisi is a wonderful city to explore, with its fascinating history, beautiful architecture, atmospheric streets and extraordinary cultural mix. There is so much more to discover, and I’ve barely scratched the surface.

The churches alone could keep me occupied for days. Add the fortress, the baths, the food and the wonderful views, and there’s every reason to return.

It has certainly been worth the blisters!