First Impressions of Tbilisi: Discovering the Charm of the Old Town

There are plenty of words to describe my first impressions of Tbilisi. Pretty, charming, atmospheric and beautiful all spring to mind. Yet none quite captures the energy of the Old Town, or just how excited I am to be here.

It’s still early when I check into the Museum Hotel Orbeliani. I drop my bags, log in to finish a few last work emails and finally allow myself to switch off. The long weekend can begin.

With a grin firmly fixed on my face, I head straight into Tbilisi Old Town. I haven’t gone far before stumbling across one of the city’s most whimsical landmarks: the Gabriadze Clock Tower.

The Gabriadze Clock Tower: A Fairytale Welcome

The clock is about to strike the hour. A little angel is due to emerge from a painted door and ring the bell, and a crowd has gathered to watch. Well, most of them have. The other half are far more interested in the opening match of the 2018 World Cup, Russia versus Saudi Arabia. With beers firmly in hand, they barely glance up as the clock performs its little show.

The tower looks as though it belongs in a fairytale, with its leaning structure, irregular brickwork and colourful ceramic details. It was created by Georgian artist and puppeteer Rezo Gabriadze beside his marionette theatre. It is a relatively modern addition to the Old Town, but feels as though it has been there for centuries. Every hour, the angel appears to strike the bell, while a miniature puppet performance takes place twice daily.

It’s an enchanting introduction to a city that seems to have a surprise around every corner.

Wandering the Streets of Tbilisi Old Town

I continue wandering, trying to find the right words for what I’m seeing. Pretty doesn’t quite do it justice.

The streets are lined with old houses, colourful balconies and window boxes overflowing with flowers. Pergolas are draped in grapevines, their bunches of tiny, hard green grapes hanging overhead. Give them a few months and they’ll be plump and juicy, ready to eat straight from the vine – unless they’re destined for a cheese platter or, more likely in Georgia, a bottle of wine.

The colours are everywhere. Bright flowers against faded walls, deep summer-green vines and the vivid new growth of the grapes. Even the smallest details catch my eye: a little postbox outside a souvenir shop, colourful puppets in the windows, magnets, pottery and all manner of treasures competing for attention.

The streets are cobbled, and tall pencil pines line the way. Beyond them, stone walls and black wrought-iron gates open onto churchyards filled with roses. The gardens have that wonderfully untamed country feel, as though nobody is too concerned about keeping every flower in its place.

And then there are the people. A grandmother, dressed entirely in black, diligently sweeps the church steps. A little later, two young girls come giggling out of the church, their heads covered in pretty scarves. They’ve been lighting candles and kissing religious icons, pressing their fingers to their lips before transferring the kisses reverently to the images.

It’s these little scenes that make the streets feel so alive. This isn’t simply a collection of historic buildings preserved for visitors. It’s a neighbourhood where everyday life continues around them.

The Character and Culture of Old Tbilisi

Tbilisi has a history stretching back around fifteen centuries. According to tradition, King Vakhtang Gorgasali chose this spot for his capital in the fifth century, drawn by the warm sulphur springs that still bubble beneath the city. Its position at the crossroads of Europe and Asia helped shape a capital influenced by different peoples, cultures and religions.

That history is visible in the architecture. Traditional Georgian houses sit alongside churches, bathhouses and buildings bearing the influence of Persian, Ottoman, Russian and European styles. Carved wooden balconies overlook narrow lanes, while courtyards and ornate entrances reveal another layer of the city’s character.

The result is wonderfully eclectic. Tbilisi doesn’t feel as though it has been designed to impress. It feels as though it has simply evolved, with each generation leaving something behind.

By now, the Old Town is buzzing. Perhaps that’s partly my own excitement, but the atmosphere feels vibrant without being frantic. Tourists fill the restaurants and browse the souvenir shops, while locals catch up in groups on park benches, outside shops and around little restaurant tables.

Some linger over conversation and glasses of chacha, Georgia’s potent grape spirit. Others are simply passing through, exchanging a few words before continuing on their way.

Dinner tables are being set beneath awnings, menus are propped outside restaurants and paintings hang along the laneways like an open-air art gallery. Better still, there’s a cat sitting beneath an ivy-covered menu stand. It tilts its head hopefully and gives a little meow as I pass. Clearly, it knows how to work the tourists.

I could wander these streets for hours.

Sunset Views Across the River

As the evening draws on, I make my way towards the river. The views across the water are beautiful, with the sun setting behind the fortress and the domed roofs of the sulphur bathhouses catching the last of the light.

The blue tiles of Chreli Abano stand out against the fading sky. Below, water trickles along the little stream, adding a gentle soundtrack to the scene.

Looking upwards, I can see the fortress silhouetted against the deepening blue. Metekhi Church and the statue of King Vakhtang Gorgasali stand proudly above the river, while the illuminated roof of Holy Trinity Cathedral glows in the distance. Its gilded details catch the floodlights, making it an impressive sight above the city.

It’s a wonderful view, and one that reminds me how much history is packed into this relatively compact part of Tbilisi.

If you have more time to explore the capital, my later article, More of Tbilisi: Exploring the City, takes in Metekhi Church, Holy Trinity Cathedral and the views from Mtatsminda. I also spend time discovering the city’s museums and historic churches in Museums & Monasteries.

Georgian Food, Wine and a Relaxed Evening

I eventually find a little restaurant, take a seat and settle in to watch the world go by. Every now and then, a cheer erupts from the Hangar Bar around the corner as Russia takes the lead in the opening World Cup match.

There are certainly plenty of Russians around tonight.

I order eggplant and zucchini goulash, accompanied by a homemade Georgian lemonade. It’s delicious, and a lovely introduction to the local food. I’m already looking forward to exploring more of Georgian cuisine tomorrow.

After dinner, I wander back towards the hotel, still taking in the sights and sounds of the Old Town.

The Museum Hotel Orbeliani is clean and comfortable, but it has a little more character than your average city hotel. The Art Deco entrance, complete with its peacock floor mosaic, and the wonderful dining room give it a lovely boutique feel.

I settle in for the night, with images of Tbilisi dancing through my head. Pretty, charming, atmospheric and beautiful. Perhaps those words aren’t so inadequate after all. I now have a collection of little moments to go with them.

Good to Know

The Museum Hotel Orbeliani is a four-and-a-half-star hotel just outside the boundaries of Tbilisi Old Town. It’s within walking distance of the historic centre and many of the city’s main attractions.

Taxis are readily available for sights further afield. However, agree on the fare before setting off, as traditional taxis may not use meters.

For more ideas on planning your stay, take a look at my Georgia Travel Guide, which brings together the country’s highlights and links to my other Georgia travel stories. If you’re planning to venture beyond the capital, my Kakheti Region day trip is a great place to start. It’s my detailed guide to Georgia’s celebrated wine region, including monasteries, historic towns and the beautiful Alazani Valley.

Would I Return?

Yes!