Tbilisi Sulphur Baths: A Traditional Georgian Experience

Soaks & Scrubs

I’m glad I did my research before visiting Tbilisi’s famous sulphur baths. The city’s name actually means ‘warm place’, a reference to the natural hot springs that helped give Tbilisi its name and, according to legend, its very existence.

Knowing a little about the experience beforehand makes all the difference. I’m better prepared, a little less apprehensive and, hopefully, able to enjoy it all the more.

For starters, I know to pack soap, slippers and a towel. You can usually buy or hire these at the bathhouses for a small extra fee, but I’m happy to have brought my own.

I also know to leave my jewellery behind. The sulphur-rich water can tarnish silver, and I would rather not take any chances with my other jewellery either.

Then there’s the question of getting naked.

Some people are quite accustomed to this. Moroccan hammams, Turkish baths, European saunas and even certain beaches have their own traditions around communal nudity. I, however, have a slightly unfortunate history.

I once braved a topless beach in Croatia. Except it wasn’t really a beach at all, more a rocky water’s edge. A rather embarrassing slip followed, from which my pride has never quite recovered. My bruised tailbone took a while to forgive me too.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, I’m a little nervous about this part. After a few days of getting used to the idea, though, I’m feeling surprisingly comfortable with it.

Finally, I know to leave the treatment room door unlocked. This allows the masseuse to enter once we’ve showered and settled into the water. Much preferable to climbing out of the bath and making a naked dash across the room to answer the door!

Finding a Traditional Tbilisi Bathhouse

Diana and I have spent the day exploring Tbilisi. After a short rest at the hotel, we head out with one mission: find a bathhouse before dinner.

After all, surely no trip to Georgia is complete without experiencing its famous sulphur baths?

The historic bath district, Abanotubani, sits in the heart of Tbilisi’s old town. Its name literally translates as ‘bath district’. The area is built around natural hot springs, which have supplied its bathhouses for centuries.

According to Georgian legend, King Vakhtang Gorgasali discovered the springs while hunting. His falcon pursued a pheasant into the hot water, where both birds were supposedly found dead. Impressed by the warmth of the springs, the king decided to establish a city here.

Whether the story is fact or folklore, the hot springs are real. Their naturally heated, mineral-rich water has been central to Tbilisi’s identity for generations.

The bathhouses themselves are part of the attraction. Many sit below street level, with traditional brick domes rising above the ground. Small openings in the domes allow steam to escape while drawing natural light into the bathing rooms. The architecture has strong Persian influences, reflecting the region’s long history of cultural exchange.

We arrive expecting to find a bathhouse without too much difficulty. In hindsight, perhaps I should have researched one more thing: booking ahead.

It’s a busy weekend, and Friday evening appears to be peak bathhouse time. Our first few enquiries produce very little. We can book, but not for another couple of hours. I expect to be well and truly in bed by then! Not wanting to miss out altogether, we secure a booking for the following evening. We have to prepay, but figure it will be a lovely way to finish our day touring the Kakheti Region.

Bath time sorted, we wander off in search of a drink and perhaps some dinner.

Discovering Bohema Sulphur Baths

It’s not yet dark, but we’re beginning to tire of walking. We head up the hill on the eastern side of the bath district and find a terrace bar overlooking the bathhouse rooftops.

The setting looks promising. Unfortunately, after waiting a good 15 minutes just to place an order, we lose patience and head back downstairs.

Next door is another bathhouse. Twenty minutes earlier, it looked completely overwhelmed with visitors. Now, the reception area is noticeably quieter. We decide to try our luck one last time.

This time we’re in luck.

The hostess at Bohema Sulfur Baths is welcoming and friendly. There is no jostling crowd at the counter, and she happily shows us the available rooms.

We settle on one of the larger options, Room 4. It has a tub big enough for two, a separate changing area and a large marble slab. I’m guessing this is where the scrubbing and rubbing take place.

The marble slab is a traditional feature of the bathing ritual. It is where the attendant carries out the vigorous exfoliation and soapy wash that turn a simple soak into something rather more indulgent.

Excited rather than nervous, we finally get started.

The Sulphur Bath & Scrub

We undress, shower and slowly lower ourselves into the hot water. It’s wonderfully relaxing, although the temperature takes a little getting used to. I settle in quite happily. Diana, on the other hand, seems less convinced. After about ten minutes, she’s out of the bath and under a cold shower.

As she’s cooling off, the masseuse arrives. I’m ordered out of the tub and onto the marble slab. The scrubbing begins. She uses a traditional exfoliating mitt, known as a kese. It’s firm without being uncomfortable, and she is certainly thorough. She flips me over, working across my back, arms, legs and everything in between. By the time she’s finished, my skin is tingling.

Then I hear the bucket being filled. I have just enough time to brace myself before a generous helping of hot water is tossed unceremoniously over my body.

Next comes the soap. This is rather divine. The masseuse works up a mountain of soapy bubbles inside what looks like a pillowcase. She then uses it to cover me from head to toe in a thick layer of foam. It’s wonderfully indulgent and, after the vigorous scrubbing, a very welcome change of pace.

Massage the Troubles Away

Finally, there’s the massage.

Once again, it’s excellent. Not too gentle, but stopping just short of the intensity of a sports massage. Whatever technique she’s using, she certainly knows where to apply the pressure. Twenty minutes later, I feel as though every ache has been worked out.

I lower myself back into the hot bath, much less gingerly this time. I feel squeaky clean, wonderfully relaxed and thoroughly pampered.

Diana takes her turn while I enjoy the rest of my soak. I float around in the warm water, appreciating the quiet and the chance to do absolutely nothing.

After a little more time in the bath, we decide our hour must be nearly up. We dry off, retrieve our belongings and make our way back into the changing area, which is considerably less slippery than before. A couple of fully dressed photos and a much-needed glass of water later, we’re back out on the street.

It’s dark now, and definitely time for dinner. Although, honestly, I feel so relaxed that I could head straight to bed and probably carry this floaty feeling through my dreams until morning.

Good To Know

The experience described above was at the establishment listed on Google Maps simply as ‘Bath House’. It’s located at Abano II Dead End, next to Marani Restaurant & Bar.

We also returned to Chreli Abano the following evening, having booked a room there earlier in the day. It was a different experience, and an interesting comparison. Chreli Abano’s room was larger, with separate hot and cold tubs and a sauna. However, I preferred the smaller Bath House room. It felt nicer, the bath appeared much cleaner and, most importantly, the scrub and massage were far superior.

Our masseuse had strong hands and knew exactly what to do with them. Given the choice, I’d happily spend another hour with her. The bath itself was almost optional!

A few practical tips:

• Book ahead: Friday and Saturday evenings can be particularly busy. Don’t assume you’ll find a room immediately.
• Take your own supplies: Pack a towel, soap and slippers, although most bathhouses offer these for hire or purchase.
• Remove your jewellery: Sulphur-rich water can tarnish silver and may affect other metals.
• Expect to undress: Private rooms are available, but the traditional scrub and massage involve being naked.
• Drink water: The hot baths and treatments can be dehydrating, particularly in summer.
• Allow enough time: A soak, scrub and massage make for a wonderfully relaxing experience, but you won’t want to rush it.

For more inspiration, my Georgia Travel Guide brings together the country’s highlights, practical travel advice and links to my other Georgia adventures.

My detailed Kakheti Region day trip is also essential reading if you’re planning to explore eastern Georgia. This is my cornerstone guide to the region, covering Bodbe, Sighnaghi, Nekresi Monastery, Gremi Citadel and the wonderful vineyards and landscapes of Georgia’s celebrated wine country.

For more of Georgia’s historic towns and fascinating architecture, you might also enjoy my articles on Uplistsikhe and Gori and Museums and Monasteries.

Would I Return?

Yes.  Any time I’m tired, have a headache, haven’t slept well, have a sore neck or aching feet, or have simply had a long day at work, this is where I’d like to be.

Need some quiet time? Deserve a treat? Feeling a little worn out?

I’m beginning to think there is no wrong occasion for a return visit. And if I could book that same masseuse again, I’d do it in a heartbeat.