Atop Melnik’s picturesque cliff tops, the St. Virgin Mary Spileotisa Monastery is perched. Known locally as the Holy Place, this tiny monastery, referred to a a cave (speleon) was built between 1209 – 1211. Its name is also associated with the Virgin Mary of the Holy Place at the Mount Athos monastery Vatopedi.
The Journey
We head out after breakfast to walk up to the church from the town. The picturesque path up the side of the cliff to the monastery is hidden away behind the local residence. Even Adriana, our guide from Private Guide Bulgaria, took a couple of attempts to locate the track.
Once located, there are a couple of steep, rocky parts before we get onto a little worn track through the woods. The birds are singing, the insects buzzing and the bright green spring foliage bursts with life.
Soon we come to a part of the track that is a bit more exposed, with a sheer drop down the hill. Although it is tempting to watch the changing views as we climb higher, I keep an eye on my step. The grassy path is not particularly dangerous but there are a few rocks and slippery spots, a missed step or a slide could easily result in a twisted ankle or a nasty fall.
Brushing some branches aside we come to a V in the track and, turning left, we promptly pop out at the Church. The sweeping views sprawl below us.
History
A quick scoping of the territory indicates that the sheer cliffs move over time. Originally covering a much larger area of around 165 sqm, over the centuries much of the structure has fallen into the precipice, mostly due to earthquakes.
For such a small and seemingly inconsequential building, the monastery is considered a significant national monument. Each year this culminates with a fair held on 31 August in honor of the Patron.
Although the monastery itself is significant, in this case it is the delight of the walk and the spectacular views that define the moment. Parts of the small structure have, however, been repaired and maintained. Despite this, the interior is a quiet, cool spot for a moment of reflection.
I pause in the church to take in the simple yet pretty iconostasis. Carved and painted I imagine trying to get the materials for the structure and decoration up the path that I have just trodden. The town is only small now. Nine hundred years ago, it must have been an effort. Not just in getting the materials here but to make or procure them in the first place. It makes the choice of location feel even more remarkable.
Views
Melnik spreads out along the narrow valley. Below I can make out our hotel, the restaurant that we had dinner at last night and the Kordopulov House where we are headed next.
One last gaze out across the vista and we begin our descent along the narrow grassy path. The way down proves a bit easier, partly because it is known. Back in the town we emerge from behind the houses. Chairs and umbrellas are emerging from cafes along the Main Street for the all important morning coffee run. We wander along the cobblestones up to the Kordopulov House. From here we are able to look back up to the Holy Place perched on the cliffs. I can just make out the tiny cross atop the whitewashed walls. A short journey with a big impact.
Good To Know
The walk is not overly difficult but there are a couple of rocky paths and steep, narrow spots. There are also no barriers at the top. Take care.
We traveled Bulgaria with Adriana from Private Guide Bulgaria. See also:
Would I Return?
Yes. If out for a walk in Melnik.
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