In the middle of charming Melnik is the Kordopulov House. We visit here on a bright, sunny spring morning after a bracing walk to the Holy Place. The town is quiet, it’s the very beginning of the season anyway but Covid has hit tourism hard and we receive an especially warm welcome as the first tourists to return since the beginning of the pandemic.
History
Build in 1754, the Kordopulov family were a rich and influential family in both the town and the region. The house is recognised as a fine example of the rich architecture Bulgarian revival style. The rich architecture continues the commercial and agricultural function with the ground floor utilizing a commercial welcome space and connected to the 300 capacity wine cellar.
Reception Room
The first floor is the most picturesque of the rooms, with a ‘guest’ or reception room. The reception room has twelve (12) generous windows, with a further row of twelve (12) colored glass windows above them. These represent a mixture of Venetian and Oriental namets. The windows face each direction ensuring that the room always has light throughout the day. The room bears the message “Travelers from every corner of the world. Welcome at the Kordopulov’s House”.
The ceiling is ornately decorated, painted in the typical Bulgarian revival style. On the northern side of the room, intrication Baroque decorated wardrobes line the wall. These cupboards would usually have been used to store mattresses and bedding as sometimes the reception room was also used for guests.
The middle of the ceiling is decorated with a sum. There are another twelve (12) geometrical figures that represent the twelve apostles as well as the months of the year. Grapes of various varietals are representative of the region’s agricultural heritage and are painted above the wardrobes.
The Bedroom
The spacious bedroom boasts glass and ceiling decorations in various styles with Bulgarian, Greek, Turkish and Oriental styles represented. The beautiful fireplace is in the shape of a minaret and also features an Orthodox cross on top, indicating the mix of ethnicities present in the region.
The Middle Room (Kyoshka)
Kyoshka means ‘angle’ in Bulgarian and this room, situated in the middle of the house, is smaller than the rest. As it is also situated on an angle it is therefore aptly named on both accounts.
This room, being more intimate than the reception room, is likely to have been used by the family for inviting guests to coffee or entertaining in a more intimate style. Today the room displays an historic loom and various traditional Bulgarian outfits.
Terrace
A narrow inner stairway links the Middle Room with the Terrace via a tiny kitchen. The summer terrace features a paved area, shaded by foliage and looking out over the town to the steep hills beyond.
The Cellar & Tunnels
Manol Kordupulov (1858 – 1912) is the undisputed father of Melnik wine. Rather than owning vast fields, he bought grapes from local vineyards to produce wine himself. His wine trading family moved from the city during the 18th century. Manol was educated in France and return home to become Manol “The Kordoupul”. With a specialist wine agriculture diploma and new techniques from the west, he had cultivated connections during him time away as well as knowledge of several languages and this served him well in his trade. He attended expos and even won a gold medal in an Australian wine competition.
The cellar is vast, a testament to Manol’s extensive business. Wine production took place on the first level of the house. The fermentation process for the wine was conducted in the 200m of interconnected tunnels where it was also stored. These tunnels run from the cellar into the hillside. These tunnels could hold up to 300 tonnes of wine and they act as a natural refrigerator as it is a constant chilly 7-9°C down here year round.
There is also a 57m deep well which was used to provide water for the household cattle.
The Roof
Last but not least is the ‘roof’. Due to the house being build into a steep incline of Melnik’s narrow valley, the cellar surprisingly also opens onto a roof (or another terrace). This sunny, picturesque shop is full of spring blooms and the perfect place to sample a couple of Melnik’s finest reds.
We linger a little longer for another glass and a chat with our hosts as we enjoy the spring morning along with the wine.
Good To Know
The Kordopul House had just reopened to tourists post Covid enforced lockdowns. We visited with Adriana from Private Guide Bulgaria but otherwise, best to check for opening times.
Would I Return?
Yes. If around the area.
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