As we arrive at Etar Ethnographic Outdoor Museum, it seems like just a few old huts along a small, albeit picturesque stream. However, as we enter this busy little slice of history, it is clear that it is much more than it seems. Etar is, in fact, an historic village come alive.
Traditions
The first exhibit that we come across is bread making. The lady takes time to explain to us the stories told by the loaves of bread. On this occasion she is making bread for the heard: sheep (always an odd number) are guarded in their pen by a shepherd with his staff and a dog. A snake, a symbol of luck and protection, is within the pen. Outside the pen, flowers and herbs decorate the remainder of the loaf.
Buildings
The ‘town’ itself consists of various buildings. We see a water-mill (karadzheika, circa 1780), where the water wheel drives a mill stone for grinding wheat to flour.
Next, a water powered spinning machine (circa 1860) is used to make braid, a type of woolen chord which is used to craft decoration for traditional Bulgarian clothing.
A saw mill (strujnya) transferred from the village of Toplesh, is also set up along with a canal fed outdoor washing machine.
Etar is in fact the ancient name of Yantra, the river that flows through the nearby city of Gabrovo. The stream that the museum is situated on is the Sivek River, a tributary of the Yantra. The name Etar was chosen for the museum to link the use of water with the development of crafts in the region.
The museum began in 1963 with the restoration of existing water powered machines and their structures along the river. Some buildings have been added since the museum opened. Many of the buildings were taken apart, relocated and then rebuilt and restored. In addition, craft displays and local produce have also been introduced to give the museum a more authentic feel and allow a more immersive experience.
Crafts
We browse some of the traditional crafts on display. A woodturner turns small salt terrines as we watch. Locally made bells for sheep and cows are on display, we see these in action a little later in the day, driving through some of the mountain villages.
Built of stone and wood, the huts have specially designed tiled roofs. All the tiles are hand cut and hand laid, ensuring a perfect fit. This is a delicate task that is a craft all of its own with the skills passed down from generations to generation. The tiles come from a small area of the mountains and due to the laborious nature of their creation are extremely expensive to buy and install. Nevertheless, they are enjoying a resurgence in popularity with renovators who want to keep an authentic Bulgarian aesthetic to their dwellings and keep a link to their heritage alive.
There is a small ‘main’ street where other traditional crafts are on display: a craftsman creates wood sculptures; there is home weaving on show; a leather shop; pottery making; and long lines outside the sweet shop and bakery.
It isn’t just the crafts and working buildings that are on display.
After tasting some local wines, cheese and sausage in the ‘Street of Tastes’ and experiencing the tantalising smells from the bakery it is all too much for me and my grumbling tummy. We we decide to stay for lunch. A good thing too. The bean soup is tasty and warming and the freshly home baked loaf of bread is garlicky goodness at its best.
Good To Know
Etar Ethnographic Outdoor Museum is located near Gabrovo and is open all year round (with shorter operating hours in winter). Adult entry is 5BGN during the high season. Visitors should allow at least 2 hours to have a good look around, do some souvenir shopping and have something hearty to eat.
We traveled Bulgaria with Adriana from Private Tours Bulgaria. See also:
Would I Return?
Yes. You can’t beat active learning in the fresh air.
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