Walking Kutaisi: Discovering Georgia’s Ancient City

Kutaisi is one of Georgia’s most historic cities, yet walking its streets reveals much more than its impressive past. Set beside the Rioni River in western Georgia, it is a city of grand monuments, faded architecture, lively markets and unexpected artistic touches. There is history around almost every corner, but there is also an easy-going atmosphere that makes it a pleasure to explore on foot.

Kutaisi has deep roots in the ancient Kingdom of Colchis, the legendary land associated with Jason and the Argonauts and their quest for the Golden Fleece. Beyond the city centre, the surrounding countryside offers even more to discover. The magnificent Gelati Monastery and nearby Motsameta Monastery are both worth visiting, while Prometheus Cave reveals an extraordinary underground landscape of stalactites, stalagmites and petrified waterfalls.

I have two days to explore Kutaisi, although the February weather isn’t particularly inviting. With grey skies and intermittent rain, I set off to discover what the city has to offer.

Kutaisi and the Legend of the Golden Fleece

Kutaisi is one of the oldest cities in Georgia, with a history stretching back thousands of years. Its ancient past is closely connected with Colchis, a kingdom that occupied much of what is now western Georgia. In Greek mythology, Colchis was the distant and mysterious destination of Jason and the Argonauts.

The story of the Golden Fleece is one of the most enduring legends associated with the region. According to Greek mythology, the fleece belonged to a magical, winged ram. It carried the children Phrixus and Helle away from their father, King Athamas, who had been persuaded to sacrifice them. During their escape, Helle fell into the sea, while Phrixus reached Colchis safely.

There, he sacrificed the ram and presented its golden fleece to King Aeëtes. The fleece was hung in a sacred grove and guarded by a fearsome dragon. It was this legendary treasure that Jason and the Argonauts later set out to claim.

There may be a rather more practical explanation behind the myth. Western Georgia has a long tradition of gold panning, and local people are said to have used sheep fleeces to collect fine particles of gold from rivers. The fleeces trapped the precious metal, eventually becoming heavy with golden deposits. It is an evocative explanation for a story that has endured for centuries.

Whether myth or history, the connection is celebrated throughout Kutaisi. It appears in the city’s fountains, sculptures and public art, making the ancient kingdom feel very much part of modern life.

Lado Meskhishvili Theatre

I begin my walk around the central square, where the imposing Lado Meskhishvili State Drama Theatre occupies a prominent position. The theatre’s history dates back to 1861, when an amateur performance marked the beginning of a new chapter in Georgian theatre. A professional troupe followed in 1880, and the theatre was eventually named after the celebrated Georgian actor and director Lado Meskhishvili in 1940.

The current building opened in 1955. Its distinctive architecture gives the square a grand, almost theatrical presence, even when there isn’t a performance underway.

The box office is open as I pass, with a selection of shows advertised. The theatre clearly remains part of everyday life here. Groups gather on the broad steps, despite the cold, while couples, friends, locals and visitors meet before wandering off together.

I find a spot to sit and watch for a while. It is a simple pleasure, but one of the best ways to get a feel for a city.

Colchis Fountain

In the middle of David the Builder Square stands the spectacular Colchis Fountain. Its tiered water basins are decorated with enlarged golden replicas of archaeological treasures discovered across Georgia, particularly those associated with the ancient kingdom of Colchis.

Among the figures are animals, mythical creatures and representations of ancient goldsmithing. The designs draw on the remarkable craftsmanship of the region, including the discoveries made at Vani, an important archaeological site southwest of Kutaisi.

One of the most recognisable figures is the tamada, the traditional toastmaster who leads the Georgian supra, or feast. It is a fitting inclusion in a country where food, wine and generous hospitality are so deeply woven into the culture.

The fountain is a striking celebration of Georgia’s ancient heritage. I imagine it is particularly beautiful after dark, when the gilded figures catch the light and the water brings the whole composition to life. On this grey afternoon, it is rather less glamorous, but still worth a closer look.

The White Bridge and Picasso Boy

A short walk from the centre brings me to the Rioni River and one of Kutaisi’s best-known landmarks: the White Bridge.

The bridge has a colourful history. An earlier wooden crossing was damaged by flooding, and its replacement features an iron structure imported from France in the nineteenth century. The bridge is associated with the year 1872, although the history of earlier crossings on this site goes back further.

Its name comes from the white stones visible in the river below, which complement the bridge’s pale appearance. Today, with the rain falling and the Rioni running high, the only white I can see is the occasional frothy crest on the water.

The bridge has long been a meeting place for Kutaisi’s residents. In the mid-twentieth century, members of the city’s cultural elite gathered here to discuss the day’s events. It also has a more romantic reputation, with stories of young men jumping from the bridge into the river to impress their sweethearts.

This tradition is known as the Baptism of a Kutaisian. It has been immortalised in the little bronze figure known as Picasso Boy, perched on the bridge railing. The character comes from Eldar Shengelaia’s Georgian film An Unusual Exhibition, and has become something of a local icon.

The boy’s two hats are an invitation for photographs. I suspect posing beside him is a considerably safer modern tradition than leaping into the Rioni.

Wall of Love & Street Art

Kutaisi may be compact, but it has a surprisingly lively street-art scene. One of its best-known pieces is the Wall of Love, tucked behind the Mon Plaisir Archway along Tsminda Nino Street.

Elsewhere, the city’s public art takes on a more traditional theme. Along Varlamishvili Street, near the route towards the Central Market, a large mural depicts a Georgian bread-making ritual. It is a charming reminder that food is central to the country’s identity.

I love discovering these unexpected details while walking through a city. They offer a glimpse of local life that can be missed when you concentrate only on the major attractions.

Green Bazaar: A Feast for the Senses

If there is one place in Kutaisi where I could happily lose an hour or two, it is the Green Bazaar, also known as the Central Market.

This is the sort of market I love. It is busy, colourful and wonderfully chaotic, with stalls piled high with fresh produce and local specialities. Wheels of cheese, freshly baked bread, seasonal vegetables, herbs, walnuts and bottles of wine compete for attention. There seems to be everything needed to put together a Georgian feast.

The market is about much more than food, though. Wander further and you’ll find clothing, books, household goods, souvenirs, local crafts and handmade jewellery. It is a fascinating cross-section of everyday life.

The market has been at the heart of Kutaisi for generations. In the 1830s, French traveller and scientist Frédéric Dubois de Montpéreux described it as a central point of activity, much like the bazaar in Athens. That description still feels entirely appropriate.

I am particularly taken with the Bread-Wine shop, where freshly baked breads are stuffed with potato, beans, cheese and other fillings. They look substantial enough to make a meal in themselves. On a warmer day, I would happily buy a selection of market treats and find somewhere by the river for a picnic.

Kutaisi Holy Annunciation Temple and the French Quarter

Tucked behind the theatre, close to the Rioni River, is the Holy Annunciation Temple, also known as the Cathedral of the Annunciation. Its unusual appearance makes it one of the more intriguing churches in Kutaisi.

The church’s architectural style is rather different from the traditional Georgian Orthodox churches I have encountered elsewhere. Its façade features three prominent arched sections, while the inscription referring to the Immaculate Conception hints at its Catholic past.

The history is a little complicated. Catholic communities became established in Kutaisi from the seventeenth century, and the surrounding neighbourhood became known as the French Quarter. The church building has a nineteenth-century history, having been associated with both Catholic and Orthodox worship over the years. It is now an Orthodox church.

The name French Quarter can be misleading. In Georgia, the term ‘French’ was historically used in reference to Catholic communities and their European religious connections. It did not necessarily mean that the residents were French.

The neighbourhood, particularly around Varlamishvili and Newport Streets, retains a distinctive architectural character. Together with Kutaisi’s Jewish Quarter, it reflects the city’s long history as a meeting place for different communities and cultures.

Besik Gabashvili Park and the Cable Car

Kutaisi is a surprisingly green city, with several parks offering a welcome break from its busy streets. One of the best known is Besik Gabashvili Park, which sits on a hill overlooking the city.

The park takes its name from Besarion Gabashvili, better known as Besiki, an eighteenth-century Georgian poet and statesman. He lived near the hill, which became associated with his name.

The recreational park was developed in the mid-twentieth century. In 1961, it underwent renovation, and the same year saw the opening of Kutaisi’s rather charming cable car. The little cabins still carry passengers across the Rioni River and up to the hilltop park.

I could walk up from behind the Red Bridge, but the cable car sounds like the more appealing option. Its station is close to the river, between the White Bridge and Red Bridge, near Café Argo.

Unfortunately, today is not the day to appreciate the park at its best. The rain has settled in, and the views are rather lost beneath the grey skies. After a cursory look around, I make my way back down towards the city.

The Colchis Relief at the Green Bazaar

Near the Central Market, along Zakharia Paliashvili Street, is another remarkable piece of public art. The enormous ceramic relief, known as the Colchis Relief or Green Bazaar Relief, covers a large section of the market wall.

Created by Georgian artist Bernard (Franz) Nebieridze, the work depicts a cast of historical and mythological figures connected with the story of Kutaisi and the ancient kingdom of Colchis.

It is almost like a visual history book. Jason and the Argonauts appear alongside King Aeëtes, while other figures represent the people and stories that have shaped the region. Weapons from different periods are carved along the lower section, adding another layer to the composition.

The relief is an impressive piece of work, particularly given its location beside the everyday bustle of the market. It is easy to walk past without appreciating just how much detail has gone into it. Take a little time to look closely and the stories begin to emerge.

The Ship House

At the end of Newport Street stands one of Kutaisi’s more unusual buildings, affectionately known as the Ship House.

From the Newport Street entrance, it looks like an attractive old building with an interesting façade. Walk around the corner, however, and the architecture reveals its secret. The building’s shape resembles the bow of a ship, projecting out towards the street.

It is an unexpected architectural detail and well worth seeking out. I always enjoy these little discoveries, particularly when they are tucked away from the main tourist route.

Beyond the City Centre

Kutaisi makes an excellent base for exploring some of western Georgia’s most remarkable sights. The city itself has plenty to occupy a visitor, but I would allow extra time for the surrounding area.

The UNESCO-listed Gelati Monastery is one of Georgia’s great medieval treasures. Founded by King David IV in the twelfth century, it is renowned for its remarkable mosaics, frescoes and historic academy. Nearby, Motsameta Monastery occupies a dramatic wooded setting above the Tskaltsitela River.

For something entirely different, Prometheus Cave offers an underground world of illuminated chambers, stalactites, stalagmites and remarkable natural formations. It is around half an hour’s drive from Kutaisi, making it an easy excursion.

These sights deserve more than a passing mention, and I would certainly include them in a longer stay.

Good To Know

Kutaisi is in the Imereti region of western Georgia and is an excellent destination for history, architecture, food and culture. Much of the central area is walkable, with the White Bridge, Colchis Fountain, theatre and Green Bazaar all within easy reach of one another.

I would allow at least a full day to explore the city centre at a leisurely pace. Add another day if you want to visit Gelati, Motsameta or Prometheus Cave.

The Green Bazaar is a highlight for food lovers, while the White Bridge and Colchis Fountain are particularly attractive photography stops. The cable car to Besik Gabashvili Park is another lovely way to see the city from a different perspective.

For more ideas and practical information, visit my Georgia Travel Guide. You can also read about our Skiing Adventures journey through the country in my Kakheti Region guide.

Would I Return?

Maybe. Kutaisi has plenty of historic interest, attractive architecture and a lovely old-town atmosphere. Yet, after my first couple of days, I wasn’t entirely convinced there was enough to bring me back as a tourist.

That said, I visited in February, when the weather was bleak and the city was looking rather damp and grey. I suspect I missed some of its charm.

Since returning home, I have been reading Emily Lush’s wonderful Wander-Lush travel stories about Georgia. Her writing has made me reconsider. There is clearly more to discover, and perhaps Kutaisi deserves another chance in the sunshine.

I wouldn’t rule it out.