Stockholm in a Day

Arriving in Stockholm from Nynäshamn

We dock at Nynäshamn, Sweden, and I hear the low rumble of the ship’s engines. Slowly and carefully, we manoeuvre towards the port. I’m usually happy to find my own way around, but today we’ve booked a Big Red Bus transfer into Stockholm. The journey takes around an hour.

It’s 8am on Saturday as we board the bus. Catching the train might have been just as easy and considerably cheaper. But you never quite know how these things will work out. I’m comfortable with our decision as I settle into my seat. The hard plastic isn’t particularly inviting, and the canvas roof flaps noisily in the wind. Still, we set off north towards the city.

We arrive at Stockholm Central Station by 9am. The official sightseeing buses don’t start running for another hour, but we can change buses and complete the red-line circuit. It’s a good opportunity to get our bearings. We know we won’t manage every stop today. Once we reach the Royal Palace and Gamla Stan, I suspect we’ll be reluctant to leave. We settle in and enjoy the ride.

A First Look at Stockholm by Sightseeing Bus

The bus winds through the city and around the outskirts of Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s atmospheric old town. We pass the Royal Palace, which doesn’t appear to be open just yet, before crossing to Södermalm. This island south of the old town is known for its artistic character and creative neighbourhoods.

We then cross back through the city and head towards Djurgården. This island is home to several of Stockholm’s best-known attractions. There’s the Viking Museum, ABBA Museum, Gröna Lund amusement park and Skansen, an open-air museum and zoo. It’s tempting to hop off and explore. However, I have the Royal Palace firmly in my sights. After missing Suomenlinna in Helsinki yesterday, I want to make the most of today’s priorities. We stay aboard and enjoy the elegant streets of Östermalm before finally leaving the bus near the Opera House.

The Opera House stands beside Gustav Adolfs torg, dominated by an equestrian statue of King Gustav II Adolf (1594–1632). It was Sweden’s first equestrian statue. The Riksdag commissioned it in 1757, although the first version was rejected and had to be replaced. It’s an impressive introduction to the city’s royal history.

From Gustav Adolfs torg, we walk along Strömgatan towards the Grand Hôtel. We hope to find an ATM nearby, but have no luck. The friendly hotel staff point us towards the nearest cash machine. Their directions take us through the lovely Kungsträdgården, or King’s Garden, where we decide to pause for coffee and a treat.

It’s a beautiful summer’s morning, and the park is full of life. At the outdoor café, the group at the next table is dressed for a wedding. They’re enjoying coffee in the sunshine before heading off to the afternoon celebrations. It’s one of those lovely little scenes that makes exploring a city so enjoyable.

Exploring Stockholm’s Royal Palace

Finally, we’re on our way to Kungliga Slottet, the Swedish Royal Palace. With around 1,430 rooms, it’s one of Europe’s largest royal palaces. The State Apartments and Royal Apartments are among its main attractions. There’s also a treasury displaying crowns, sceptres and other royal regalia, all under rather watchful security.

I love a good palace tour, particularly one that still serves a purpose. The Swedish Royal Palace remains an important setting for official receptions, banquets and royal celebrations. The Hall of State hosted celebrations for the King’s 70th birthday in 2016. Until 1975, it also hosted the formal opening of Parliament each year, a tradition dating back to 1755.

The magnificent silver throne at the far end of the hall dates from 1650. It was presented to Queen Kristina for her coronation. Unfortunately, the hall is undergoing restoration work during our visit. It’s not looking quite as photogenic as it might otherwise.

We continue through the Apartments of the Orders of Chivalry, where costumes, garments, medals, shields and insignia are displayed. The Guest Apartments and State Apartments contain an impressive collection of glassware, porcelain, silver, furniture, paintings and tapestries.

It’s the building itself, however, that I find most interesting. Unlike some palaces, designed primarily to display wealth and power, this one feels genuinely lived in. Its decoration is relatively restrained, and the rooms retain a sense of purpose. Perhaps it’s the fact that the palace still functions as a royal residence, on occasion, that gives it such an authentic atmosphere.

Discovering Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s Old Town

Back outside, we wander through the picturesque streets of Gamla Stan. Stockholm’s oldest neighbourhood occupies Stadsholmen, an island connected to the rest of the city by bridges. Much of the old town’s narrow, cobbled streets are pedestrian-friendly. Colourful facades line the lanes, with the occasional troll keeping watch from a shopfront.

The district was once known as Staden mellan broarna, meaning the Town Between the Bridges. It’s a wonderfully descriptive name, and I rather prefer it to the more generic ‘Old Town’.

Gamla Stan dates back to the 13th century, with its medieval heart centred around Stortorget. This historic main square is surrounded by colourful buildings and narrow cobbled lanes. The architecture reflects strong Northern German influences, carried across the Baltic Sea through centuries of trade and cultural exchange.

Today, the square is full of life. Visitors settle onto the benches, enjoying mugs of ale and the last of the summer sunshine. There are also plenty of trolls lurking in shop windows, including one that appears to be keeping a particularly close eye on the street.

Trolls are familiar figures in Scandinavian and Nordic folklore. Traditionally depicted as large and hairy, they often have rather unpredictable temperaments. They’re generally good-natured when left alone, but can become fierce when disturbed. It’s a fun little detail that adds to Gamla Stan’s character.

Swedish Meatballs and Medieval Stockholm

Mum and I follow the winding cobbled streets before stopping for something to eat at Österlånggatan 17. We can’t resist ordering Swedish meatballs to share. They’re considerably more memorable than the occasional IKEA version I’ve been known to enjoy! We also have a lovely view across the square towards a fountain and statue. After a long morning on our feet, it’s a welcome chance to sit back and soak up the atmosphere.

The names of the streets here offer another glimpse into the city’s medieval past. Österlånggatan, meaning East Long Street, and Västerlånggatan, or West Long Street, broadly follow the boundaries of the original settlement.

I also love the traditional story behind Stockholm’s name. It translates loosely as ‘log island’. According to legend, an ancient log filled with gold was set adrift. Wherever it eventually came ashore would become the site of a new capital. That place became Stockholm. It’s a charming story, even if the true origins of the city’s name remain uncertain.

Riddarholmen Church: Sweden’s Royal Burial Place

After lunch, we take another leisurely circuit of Gamla Stan before crossing to Riddarholmen, or Knight’s Islet. Here we find Riddarholmen Church, the traditional burial place of Swedish monarchs and members of the royal family.

The island’s name may suggest a more pastoral past, but its history is firmly tied to Sweden’s monarchy. A Franciscan monastery was established here in the 13th century. King Magnus Ladulås, who died in 1290, chose the church as his burial place.

The church is a striking blend of Swedish history and architecture. Like many historic churches, it has evolved over the centuries. However, its greatest interest lies in the people buried within its walls. Swedish monarchs and aristocrats rest here, including Gustav II Adolf, Karl XII and Gustav V, along with their consorts. Much of the floor is covered with stone slabs marking individual graves.

The tombs of Karl Knutsson Bonde and Magnus Ladulås stand before the altar. There are also two important royal chapels. The Bernadotte Chapel contains members of the royal family from Karl XIV Johan and Queen Desideria onwards. The Karolinska Chapel holds the coffins of Karl XII, Fredrik I and Ulrika Eleonora the Younger.

Beneath the chapel, a crypt contains further monarchs and royal family members. Among them are Karl X Gustav, Hedvig Eleonora, Karl XI and Ulrika Eleonora the Elder. Five children who died in infancy are also buried here. It’s a poignant reminder of the personal histories behind Sweden’s royal lineage.

The walls display the coats of arms of the Knights of the Order of the Seraphim, Sweden’s highest order of chivalry. These colourful shields add another layer of royal history to the church.

Riddarholmen is also home to three historic palaces: Wrangel, Stenbock and Hessenstein. Today, all three serve as court buildings. Other buildings on the island house various government agencies and institutions. It’s a fascinating mix of medieval heritage and modern government.

Leaving Stockholm and Returning to Nynäshamn

Sadly, it’s time to leave Gamla Stan behind. We walk through Riddarhustorget and across to Helgeandsholmen, another of Stockholm’s historic islets. From there, we follow Riksgatan past the Riksdagshuset, Sweden’s Parliament building, before crossing Riksbron towards Central Station.

We have a little time to spare, so we wander along Drottninggatan, the city’s main pedestrian shopping street. We pop into a few shops, enjoying a little window shopping before checking the time. Soon, we need to find our bus back to the port.

The map proves confusing, and the demonstrations taking place nearby make things rather more complicated. We’re always wary of large crowds that could turn unpredictable, so we try to keep our distance. Before long, we see mounted police moving off, knocking over a bystander who has ventured a little too close.

We decide not to hang around. Instead, we take a wide detour around the crowds and commotion. Eventually, we find our way back to the bus stop without further incident.

After all the walking and excitement, I’m more than happy to climb aboard and settle in for the journey back to Nynäshamn. I spend the trip looking through my photographs and reflecting on the day. Stockholm has certainly left an impression. Its royal history, beautiful waterfront and atmospheric old town make it a wonderful city to explore.

Good To Know

From the cruise port at Nynäshamn, you can catch a train into Stockholm. The journey takes around an hour, much like the bus. In hindsight, the train may have given us more flexibility and time to explore the city.

Nynäshamn itself is also worth considering. It’s a lovely seaside town with a distinctly summery feel. Houses, boats and local amenities cater to the seasonal holiday crowd. If you’ve already visited Stockholm, it could make a relaxing alternative for a port day. There’s even a hop-on hop-off bus from the port. This may be a particularly appealing option for families travelling with younger children who would rather avoid the commute into the city.

Would I Return?

Yes. Stockholm has far more to offer than we could fit into one day. I’d happily return to explore more of its museums, palaces and islands.

Beyond the Royal Palace and Gamla Stan, Djurgården deserves a day of its own. The Vasa Museum, ABBA Museum and Skansen are all on my list. Gröna Lund is another option for families. I’d also love to visit Drottningholm Palace, just outside the city.

And that’s the beauty of Stockholm. One visit gives you a wonderful introduction, but there’s plenty left to discover.