Copenhagen by Canal

It’s my birthday, and I’m heading out to discover Copenhagen from its beautiful canals.

I wake feeling considerably better than yesterday. I’ve been unwell and longing to explore the city, but the previous day passed entirely in bed. I had almost resigned myself to spending another day indoors.

The boys tumble into the room, bursting with excitement. They can barely contain themselves as they wish me a happy birthday and present their gifts and homemade cards. Their cuddles and enthusiasm are always the loveliest presents, but the other gifts are rather special too. There are new pyjamas, lipsticks, eyeshadows, body cream and tickets to the ballet in a couple of nights. I feel thoroughly spoiled!

After breakfast, Mum and I decide we’re well enough to venture out for a little while. She’s been unwell too, so a gentle sightseeing tour seems the perfect way to ease ourselves back into exploring Copenhagen.

We catch the big red sightseeing bus near Central Station and hop off at Børsen, the city’s historic Stock Exchange building. Its extraordinary spire, formed from four entwined dragon tails, is an impressive introduction to Copenhagen’s architectural character. As we step off the bus, a procession of mounted guards rides past in perfect formation. It’s quite a spectacle. We’re not following the guards, however. Instead, we make our way to a waiting canal boat and prepare to see the city from a different perspective.

Exploring Copenhagen by Canal

Our Copenhagen canal tour begins beside the Church of Holmen before winding towards the Inner Harbour. We glide past the stylish Standard complex, colourful Nyhavn, the Royal Danish Playhouse and the striking modern Opera House. From here, we continue towards one of Copenhagen’s most recognisable landmarks, the Little Mermaid.

Along the way, we pass the Port Authority, flanked by the Royal Pavilions. These provide a royal connection to the waterfront, where the Danish royal family boards its private yacht for summer holidays. It’s a lovely reminder that Copenhagen’s maritime heritage remains very much part of modern royal life.

Freetown Christiania

We cross to the opposite side of the harbour and enter the canals around Freetown Christiania. The atmosphere changes noticeably. Here, the waterfront is lined with wonderfully unconventional houses, colourful facades and an eclectic collection of boats. We cruise along Christianshavn Canal, parallel to Overgaden Oven Vandet, taking in the relaxed waterside neighbourhood. Above the rooftops, the golden spiral tower of Vor Frelsers Kirke, or the Church of Our Saviour, catches our eye.

Crossing the Inner Harbour once more, we begin our return journey along Frederiksholms Kanal. We pass Civiletatens Materialgård, a historic former state storage complex, before reaching Christiansborg Palace. Once a royal residence, it now houses the Danish Parliament.

This stretch of water winds around Slotsholmen, or Castle Islet. It is surprisingly narrow in places, with a succession of very low bridges and some remarkably tight turns. For a boat of this size, the manoeuvres are impressive! As we navigate one particularly sharp bend, I find myself admiring the intricate stonework beneath the bridges. These details are easy to overlook from the streets above, but the water offers an entirely different perspective.

It’s been a wonderfully gentle way to explore Copenhagen, although the boys are beginning to grow restless and hungry. We step ashore, grateful that the rain has held off, and set off on foot towards Nyhavn for a celebratory birthday lunch. Its colourful waterfront, historic buildings and lively atmosphere make it an irresistible choice. After all, can anyone really get enough of Copenhagen’s pretty canals?

Good To Know

There’s usually no need to book a Copenhagen canal tour in advance. Kronometertrappen operates regular departures, although services depend on the tides. Check the timetable and availability before setting off to avoid a long wait. The tour departs near Holmen’s Church, opposite the historic Stock Exchange building. Guides provide commentary in Danish, English and German.

Would I Return?

Yes, absolutely. Perhaps I wouldn’t take another canal tour, but Copenhagen’s waterways have a charm that deserves more than one visit. In summer, the canals come alive with swimming spots, boat trips and waterside activities. Restaurants and historic buildings make the most of their waterfront settings, while the harbour provides a wonderful backdrop to everyday city life. And who could resist lingering over a drink or an ice cream along Nyhavn, watching the boats drift past and soaking up the atmosphere?