Nusa Penida Snorkeling

Swimming with manta rays in Bali’s most spectacular marine sanctuary was high on our list for a recent adventure and a day trip to Nusa Penida snorkeling really delivered.

Long before arriving in Bali, we’d admired photographs of giant manta rays gliding effortlessly through crystal-clear water and sea turtles grazing over vibrant coral reefs. Even so, we kept our expectations in check. Every guidebook, tour operator and local guide delivers the same reminder: manta ray sightings are never guaranteed. They are wild animals, free to come and go as they please. That uncertainty only made the anticipation greater as our alarms go off before sunrise for one of Bali’s most celebrated marine adventures.

An Early Morning Journey from Canggu

Our day begins with a 5:45am alarm, a quick breakfast and a pick up from our accommodation in Canggu for the drive across Bali to Sanur Harbour. The roads are already busy, with hundreds of scooters weaving between delivery trucks and tour cars. Along the side of the road, market stalls and shops begin stirring to life.

The morning didn’t begin quite as planned. Determined not to miss breakfast, we’d taken a little longer than expected and soon learned that we’d missed the scheduled 7:30 am fast ferry. Instead, we’d be travelling on the 8:30 am departure. In truth, we had nobody to blame but ourselves, and the extra time at Sanur proved far from inconvenient. Fishing boats drift lazily offshore while travelers gradually gather along the waterfront, all waiting for their chance to cross to Nusa Penida island.

Although we had booked what was described as a private tour, the ferry itself is anything but exclusive. Like everyone else visiting the island this morning, we join the queue to board one of the large public fast boats. The forty-five-minute crossing passes quickly as Bali’s coastline slowly disappears behind us and the rugged limestone cliffs of Nusa Penida begin to emerge on the horizon.

Arrival at Nusa Penida

Nusa Penida makes an immediate impression. Towering limestone cliffs rise dramatically from brilliant turquoise water, while pockets of white sand disappear beneath dense tropical vegetation. Even before stepping ashore, it is obvious why the island has become one of Indonesia’s premier snorkeling and diving destinations.

Our boat docks promptly, and within moments a smiling local guide appears holding his phone. Displayed on the screen is the photograph of our family, sent ahead by the driver who had collected us in Canggu earlier that morning. There are no awkward introductions, we simply follow.

The next surprise comes almost immediately.

Rather than being picked up in a car or walking directly to our snorkeling boat, we’re asked to get onto motorbikes. The original plan involves squeezing the four of us onto two scooters (three to a scooter with the drivers). I do my best to politely decline the idea but in hindsight, it may have come across as a slightly panicked ’no!’. In the end, Jason takes one of the boys and I wait for him to return for me after ascertaining it’s only a 5 minute ride. Admittedly this adds a few minutes to the journey, but it feels considerably more sensible.

Waiting for us after this is a much smaller boat than the ferry we’ve just left behind. With only us, a snorkeling guide and a captain aboard, I feel immediately more relaxed. Masks and fins are at the ready in a box on the front seat, Jason & I are seated in the middle and the boys are behind us. As we cast off, excitement steadily replaces any lingering uncertainty about the day ahead.

Cruising to Manta Bay

The journey to Manta Bay takes only fifteen minutes but offers a spectacular introduction to Nusa Penida’s dramatic coastline. A fresh breeze whips across the deck as the boat bounces over a lively swell, sending occasional sprays of cool seawater across the bow. Around us, towering cliffs plunge into impossibly blue water, their weathered faces carved by centuries of wind and waves.

Despite the stunning scenery, my thoughts remains fixed on one thing: will we actually see manta rays?

Throughout the morning we have been gently reminded not to expect too much. Some days the mantas simply don’t appear, while on others they may stay only briefly before disappearing into deeper water.

As we pull into the bay and start putting on fins and masks our guide points towards a small group of snorkelers. There are large shadows moving in the water.

I smile. They’re here.

Snorkeling with Manta Rays at Manta Bay

Within seconds I’m ready and in the water, swimming towards the group for fear of missing the moment.

Then, emerging silently from the deep blue beneath us, comes the unmistakable silhouette of a manta ray.

No photograph has prepared me for their sheer size. With wingspans stretching several metres across, they move through the water with extraordinary grace, each slow sweep of their broad fins propelling them forward so effortlessly that they seem to fly rather than swim. Despite their immense proportions, there is nothing intimidating about them. Every movement is calm, deliberate and almost hypnotic.

As one manta banks gracefully beneath us, another appears from the blue beyond, followed moments later by a third. Their distinctive white undersides flash as they turn, while their cephalic fins unfurl to funnel plankton-rich water into their enormous mouths. They circle beneath us with remarkable composure, seemingly unfazed by the small group of snorkelers quietly observing from above.

For the next thirty minutes, time simply ceases to matter.

We float almost motionless while these gentle giants pass repeatedly beneath us, sometimes only a few metres away before disappearing effortlessly back into the cobalt depths. We swim alongside them but they’re so fast. The boys free dive below for a better view.

Between sightings, shafts of sunlight pierce the surface, illuminating the rays as though they are suspended in mid-air. The experience is strangely serene yet totally exhilarating. The only sounds are the steady rhythm of breathing through our snorkels and the occasional splash as someone surfaces.

It is impossible not to feel humbled. These magnificent creatures return to the waters around Nusa Penida as part of their natural daily routine, while we are simply fortunate enough to witness a fleeting moment of their world. Watching them glide so effortlessly through the ocean carries a sense of privilege that is difficult to put into words.

Eventually our guide signals that it is time to return to the boat. As we climb back aboard, all our faces wear the same expression of astonishment. We have just spent half an hour swimming alongside one of the ocean’s most majestic animals. This wasn’t a fleeting glimpse, this is an encounter we had been repeatedly told might never happen.

Already, the day has exceeded every expectation.

And remarkably, it is only the beginning.

Crystal Bay: Drifting with Sea Turtles

As our boat pulls away from Manta Bay, the mood on board is one of quiet disbelief. We were all hoping for a glimpse of a manta ray, yet we’d spent half an hour swimming alongside several of these magnificent creatures. Whatever might happen next would be an unexpected bonus. My box is checked!

Barely ten minutes later, we round another rocky headland and enter the sheltered waters of Crystal Bay. The contrast is immediate. A crescent of golden sand curves around the bay, shaded by palms and dotted with a handful of traditional beach huts. The water shimmers through every imaginable shade of turquoise before fading into deep sapphire offshore.

The reef begins almost at the shoreline, creating an underwater landscape that seems vibrant and inviting. Moments after slipping into the water, our guide points calmly ahead. A green sea turtle grazes peacefully among the coral, completely untroubled by our presence. Every so often it lifts effortlessly from the reef, floats in the current and then settles back down to continue feeding, gently rocked by the same rolling swell that carries us back and forth.

Before long, another turtle appears.

Unlike the excitement of Manta Bay, this encounter unfolds at an altogether gentler pace. There is no urgency, only the quiet privilege of observing these graceful animals as they go about their day.

We free-dive several times for a closer look, careful to leave plenty of space while they continue feeding among the coral gardens. Although the fish life seems relatively sparse, it hardly matters. The turtles hold our attention completely and before we know it twenty minutes has disappeared.

Back aboard the boat, we can’t help but smile at our good fortune. Having been told that neither sightings were guaranteed, we have now experienced both in the space of a single morning.

Gamat Bay: A Reef Bursting with Life

Our next stop, Gamat Bay, reveals another side of Nusa Penida’s remarkable underwater world.

The water is astonishingly clear, exposing healthy coral formations that stretch across the seabed below. Branching corals, broad table corals and colourful soft corals create a thriving habitat for countless reef fish.

As soon as we enter the water, schools of tropical fish surround us. Carrying a small amount of bread, our guide attracts shimmering clouds of sergeant majors and fusiliers that swirl effortlessly around us before dispersing back across the reef. Below, brilliantly coloured parrotfish graze noisily on the coral, their constant nibbling a reminder that these reefs are living, ever-changing ecosystems.

Everywhere we look there is movement. Fish dart between coral bommies while shafts of sunlight pierce the surface, illuminating the reef in constantly shifting patterns. We spend much of our time free-diving through the schools of fish, emerging each time to discover another colourful scene unfolding beneath us.

Fortunately for me, the boys are completely engrossed in testing Jason’s new DJI action camera, a recent birthday present, leaving our guide free to capture some wonderful underwater photographs of me swimming among the reef. It allows me to relax and enjoy the experience without constantly reaching for a camera. Unusual for me, I’ll admit, but I’m pleased with the memories.

The Wall: Carried by the Current

By our fourth snorkel stop, and having been in the water for over an hour, we’re beginning to feel the chill. Although Bali’s tropical seas are generally wonderfully warm, today with the wind and swell, the water temperature is only around 22 degrees Celsius. To be fair, this is the dry (cool season) and extended time snorkeling gradually drains your body heat. Jasper is visibly feeling the cold, his lips are tinged blue and his teeth chatter despite being wrapped in a towel. He wisely decides to remain aboard while the rest of us complete the final snorkel.

Known simply as The Wall, this site offers a completely different experience. Instead of exploring broad coral gardens, we drift alongside a dramatic underwater drop-off where the reef plunges into deep blue water. The visibility is exceptional, revealing an almost endless expanse beyond the reef’s edge.

Here, the gentle current becomes our guide. Rather than swimming continuously, we simply float with the flow as it carries us effortlessly along the wall. Schools of reef fish hover above colourful coral outcrops, while another green sea turtle emerges from beneath an overhang before gliding gracefully into the open water.

There is something wonderfully calming about surrendering to the current. Without the effort of constant swimming, we simply absorb the underwater world unfolding around us until we reach the waiting boat, which collects us at the end of the drift.

From here we can already see the sheltered bay where our adventure began only a couple of hours ago.

Lunch by the Beach

Back on shore, a quick shower – cold but refreshing – washes away the salt before we change into dry clothes and immediately begin to warm in the tropical sunshine.

A short stroll along the storefronts brings us to a small local warung (restaurant) overlooking the bay. Plastic chairs and simple wooden tables sit beneath the shade of swaying trees, with uninterrupted views across the sparkling water. It is the sort of place we’re unlikely to have discovered, if not for our tour, yet it delivers exactly what we need: generous plates of freshly cooked Indonesian food, cold drinks and a chance to relive the morning’s highlights.

Conversation quickly turns to favourite moments. For all of us it was the unforgettable encounter with the manta rays. Although the turtles and the vibrant coral reefs at Gamat Bay were both memorable also. It was one of those rare family adventures where we all experienced the day a little differently, yet agree it has been something truly special.

Returning to Bali

After lunch we make our way back to Nusa Penida’s ferry terminal for the afternoon crossing to Sanur. The return journey is noticeably quieter. Tired from the time in the water and warmed by the afternoon sun, most passengers simply watch the island’s dramatic cliffs recede into the distance while reflecting on a day that, if they were as lucky as us, exceeded every expectation.

By the time we arrive back in Canggu, we are exhausted, slightly sunburnt and still talking about the manta rays. Of all the experiences during our Bali holiday, this is undoubtedly one that will stay with us long after we have returned home.

Good to Know

Most snorkeling tours to Nusa Penida depart from Sanur Harbour early in the morning, making an early pickup from the western side of the island essential. Even if you miss your intended ferry, as we did, the later departures generally still allow plenty of time to visit the island’s four main snorkel sites. Although many tours are marketed as private, the fast ferry itself is usually a shared public service, while the snorkeling boat caters to much smaller groups.

Sea conditions around Nusa Penida can change quickly. The crossings and boat transfers are often bumpy, particularly during the dry season when the trade winds strengthen, and spending several hours in the water can leave you surprisingly cold despite the tropical climate. A rash vest or lightweight wetsuit adds welcome warmth, while those prone to seasickness should consider medication before leaving Sanur.

Perhaps the most important advice is to arrive with realistic expectations. Manta rays and sea turtles are wild animals, and sightings can never be guaranteed. The very unpredictability of these encounters is what makes them so memorable. Choosing an operator that follows responsible wildlife practices, keeps respectful distances and never encourages guests to touch the animals helps ensure these remarkable marine encounters remain sustainable for years to come.

Would I Return?

Yes.