A Day Trip To Ubud

After several days enjoying Bali’s beautiful coastline, we were ready to swap surf breaks and beach clubs for something completely different. A day trip to Ubud is high on our list, anticipated since arriving on the island. Promising ancient temples, vibrant markets, emerald rice fields and a glimpse into the cultural soul of Bali, Ubud is a must visit destination. Better still, it has san experience that our three generations can enjoy together.

Our driver, Putra, arrives promptly at our accommodation in Seminyak for a 7:30am departure. Morning traffic is already building as we head north, leaving the bustling beach suburbs behind and gradually climbing towards Bali’s lush central highlands. The journey takes around ninety minutes, as we pass villages adorned with colourful temple shrines, roadside fruit stalls and countless scooters weaving effortlessly through the traffic. By shortly after 9:00am we arrive at our first stop, the famous Ubud Sacred Monkey Forest.

Ubud Sacred Monkey Forest

Stepping through the entrance gates, we immediately understand why this sanctuary is one of Bali’s most visited attractions. Towering banyan trees stretch high overhead, their tangled roots wrapping around ancient stone statues that seemed to emerge naturally from the jungle floor. Thick vines hang from the canopy while shafts of morning sunlight filter through the leaves, creating an atmosphere that is both peaceful and mysterious.

Then come the monkeys.

There aren’t just a handful scattered through the forest, there are hundreds. Long-tailed macaques lounge on pathways, balance effortlessly on temple walls and swing through the branches overhead with astonishing confidence. Every few metres another family appears, grooming one another, chasing playfully through the trees or quietly observing the growing crowd of visitors. Despite the number of people exploring the sanctuary, the monkeys remain completely at home, treating the humans as little more than curious guests in their forest.

For my dad as well as Jasper and Harley, it is an experience unlike anything they have encountered before. Although the boys experienced apes in Gibraltar, dad has only ever seen monkeys behind the glass of zoo enclosures or on tv. Even having been here previously myself, watching them roam freely through an ancient forest is endlessly fascinating.

The excitement grows with each corner we turn as another troop appears from seemingly nowhere. One moment the boys are cautiously keeping their distance; the next they are laughing as a particularly confident monkey wanders straight between them, grabbing for some corn without showing the slightest concern.

Grandad is equally captivated. Watching three generations of our family experience something new together makes the morning especially memorable. Cameras are constantly raised, mostly for the monkeys to prove remarkably uncooperative models. Just as we line up the perfect photograph, one suddenly darts away into the trees while another turns its back at precisely the wrong moment. Others seem determined to stare anywhere except towards the camera, producing a collection of wonderfully imperfect family photographs that somehow capture the experience far better than any posed image could.

Eventually, patience prevails. A guide skillfully tempts a willing participant with treats (sunflower seeds) and snaps the moment quickly. With enough shots, one or two must be more or less acceptable. Even then there are no guarantees. Harley giggles as one reaches along his arm, Jasper plays it cool, trying not to move too quickly, while Grandad maintains the cautious smile of someone wondering whether his furry companion might suddenly decide to climb onto his shoulder. The resulting photographs are some of our favourite memories, not because they are perfect, but because they reflect the spontaneity that makes the Monkey Forest so memorable.

Beyond its playful residents, the sanctuary carries centuries of cultural and spiritual significance. Officially known as the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, it protects more than just wildlife. The forest is considered a sacred place by the local community and embodies the Balinese Hindu philosophy of Tri Hita Karana – the harmonious relationship between people, nature and the spiritual world. Walking beneath the enormous trees, surrounded by ancient shrines and the sounds of the forest, it becomes clear that this is far more than simply a tourist attraction.

Hidden throughout the sanctuary are three historic temples dating back to around the 14th century. Moss-covered guardian statues watch silently over stone staircases while intricately carved gateways disappear into dense jungle. Signs indicate that visiting are welcome to admire these sacred spaces respectfully from the surrounding paths. They certainly provide a fascinating glimpse into Bali’s enduring religious traditions. Together, the temples, forest and resident macaques create an environment unlike anywhere else on the island, where nature and spirituality exist side by side.

Ubud Central Market

Leaving the Monkey Forest behind, we make the short drive into the centre of Ubud, where peaceful jungle pathways give way to bustling streets lined with cafés, boutiques and an endless stream of visitors. Our first stop is Ubud Central Market, one of Bali’s best places to browse locally made arts and crafts. Colourful stalls overflow with woven handbags, hand-carved timber sculptures, paintings, jewellery, clothing and countless souvenirs, while friendly vendors welcome visitors to browse their collections. Despite its popularity, the market still retains an authentic artistic character, showcasing the island’s long tradition of wood carving, painting and textile weaving.

We weave between the stalls in search of the perfect souvenir. Jasper eventually emerges proudly carrying a beautifully painted wooden surfboard featuring the iconic silhouette of Tanah Lot Temple, a fitting reminder that one of Bali’s most famous landmarks still waits on our itinerary. Grandad takes a slower pace, enjoying conversations with local stallholders and admiring the back and forth of some negotiations. After one final browse, we cross the busy road to our next destination, Ubud Palace, leaving behind the vibrant energy of the market to discover the town’s historic royal residence, offering a striking contrast to the colourful chaos of the surrounding markets and providing another fascinating window into Bali’s rich cultural heritage.

Ubud Palace

Crossing the busy intersection from the markets, we step through the ornate stone gateway into a completely different world. The traffic noise fades almost instantly, replaced by the quiet murmur of visitors exploring the peaceful courtyards beyond. It is my second visit to Ubud Palace, yet the contrast between the bustling streets outside and the calm within remains just as striking.

As Jasper and Harley wander ahead, grandad pauses to admire the elaborate carvings and mythical guardian statues. I take a moment remembering my previous visit with Mum a couple of years ago. We had also taken our time wandering these same courtyards together, stopping to admire the intricate details and soaking up the atmosphere. Returning now with Grandad and the boys gives the palace a different meaning. It feels less like revisiting a landmark and more like sharing a place that has already become part of my own story in Bali.

Also known as Puri Saren Agung, Ubud Palace has stood at the heart of the town since the nineteenth century, when it was built as the residence of Ubud’s royal family. While it continues to serve as a home for the royal descendants, it has long been the cultural and ceremonial centre of the kingdom, hosting religious celebrations, royal gatherings and traditional Balinese performances. The palace beautifully reflects the island’s distinctive architectural style, with richly carved sandstone gateways, ornate pavilions, decorative timber work and peaceful courtyards that embody the harmony between art, religion and everyday life. Like so much of Bali, the palace is deeply rooted in Balinese Hinduism, where temples, shrines and daily offerings reinforce the connection between people, nature and the spiritual world.

Today, visitors are free to explore much of the outer palace complex, where every doorway seems to reveal another beautifully decorated pavilion or tranquil courtyard. There are elaborate dragon carvings and fierce guardian figures watching silently over the entrances, while Grandad takes his time admiring the doorways and moss covered surfaces.

Fresh offerings of flowers and incense sit neatly outside shrines, adding colour, fragrance and a gentle reminder that this remains a living cultural site rather than simply a historic attraction. Although the palace itself is relatively compact, it offers an intimate glimpse into Bali’s royal heritage and provides a welcome moment of calm before continuing our journey through the cultural heart of Ubud.

Ubud Water Palace

Just a short stroll from Ubud Palace, we arrive at one of the town’s most serene landmarks. Hidden behind an unassuming entrance, the Ubud Water Palace immediately reveals itself with an extraordinary display of lotus ponds stretching towards an intricately carved temple. Stone pathways appear to float across the water, while fountains gently trickle beneath colourful lily pads and towering lotus flowers. The noise of the busy streets disappears once again, replaced by the soothing sound of flowing water and the quiet conversations of visitors pausing to admire the view. It is easy to see why this has become one of my favourite places in Ubud.

The boys are instantly drawn to the stone walkways crossing the ponds, stopping every few metres to watch koi weaving gracefully beneath the surface. Harley admires the enormous lotus leaves while Jasper wanders through the middle between the fountains. Grandad, meanwhile, wanders at a slower pace, taking in the peaceful surroundings and admiring the remarkable craftsmanship that frames every courtyard. We linger far longer than we had intended, simply enjoying the atmosphere. Looking across the still water towards the richly decorated temple, it is hard to believe that one of Ubud’s busiest streets lies only metres away.

Known formally as Pura Taman Saraswati, the Water Palace was commissioned in 1951 by the King of Ubud, Tjokorda Gde Agung Sukawati, as a place of beauty and quiet reflection for the royal family. Dedicated to Saraswati, the Hindu goddess of wisdom, learning and the arts, the temple reflects Ubud’s long-standing identity as Bali’s cultural and artistic heart.

Every element of the complex has symbolic meaning, from the sacred lotus ponds that represent purity and enlightenment to the carefully balanced layout inspired by the Balinese philosophy of Tri Hita Karana, which emphasises harmony between people, nature and the spiritual world. Although comparatively modern by Balinese standards, the temple has become one of the island’s most recognisable cultural landmarks and continues to play an important role in the religious life of the local community.

Today, the Water Palace remains far more than a picturesque stop on an Ubud walking tour. Daily offerings of flowers and incense remind visitors that this is an active place of worship, while traditional dance performances held in the evenings transform the forecourt into one of Bali’s most celebrated cultural venues.

Walking Jalan Kajeng

Leaving the Water Palace behind, we round the corner and head north along Jalan Kajeng, one of Ubud’s most atmospheric streets. The first few hundred metres retains the lively energy of the town centre, with market stalls spilling onto the footpath beneath colourful umbrellas. Handwoven bags, carved timber artworks, silver jewellery and paintings compete for attention, while small cafés tempt passersby with the aroma of freshly brewed Balinese coffee.

As we wander further from the centre, the atmosphere changes almost imperceptibly. The market stalls gradually give way to family compounds, ornate temple entrances and boutique villas hidden behind intricately carved stone walls. Small warungs appear beneath swaying palms, their owners greeting us with warm smiles as more scooters pass us by. It feels like we are leaving the tourist hub behind and stepping into everyday village life.

Soon even the villas became less frequent. The road narrows, the crowds disappear and the surrounding greenery begins to dominate the landscape. Before long, the Kajeng Rice Fields stretch out before us in every direction, replacing the bustle of central Ubud with one of Bali’s most peaceful rural landscapes.

Kajeng Rice Fields

The transformation is quite remarkable. Only fifteen minutes earlier we were surrounded by busy streets and market stalls; now all that remain is the gentle rustle of rice swaying in the breeze and the occasional chirp of birds hidden amongst the paddies. Narrow concrete pathways wind through the emerald fields, passing tiny irrigation channels that have sustained local farmers for generations. Every bend reveals another postcard-perfect scene, with coconut palms rising above the paddies and traditional village homes peeking through the trees beyond.

It reminds me exactly why I wanted to bring the family here. On my previous visit to Ubud, this peaceful walk had was one of my highlights, a favorite discovery. Away from the crowds, it offers a glimpse of the slower, quieter Bali that so often disappears beneath the island’s more famous attractions. Experiencing it again with Grandad, Jasper and Harley makes it feel entirely new.

Knowing the walk would be a little too much for Grandad in the afternoon heat, I organised a Grab motorbike to take him directly to our lunch destination. By the time we arrive at the restaurant, he is already waiting, enjoying the view and amused by the novelty of weaving through the rice fields on the back of a scooter while the rest of us walked.

The boys, meanwhile, embrace the path with youthful enthusiasm, darting ahead to inspect irrigation channels and stopping every few minutes to photograph another picturesque corner of the landscape. It is one of those rare family moments where nobody seems rushed. We simply wander together, appreciating the scenery and enjoying the contrast to the vibrant streets we have left behind.

Lunch at Sweet Orange Warung

Nestled amongst the rice paddies, Sweet Orange Warung remains one of Ubud’s most unique dining experiences. Reaching the restaurant on foot makes the arrival even more rewarding, as the open-air dining pavilions emerge almost unexpectedly from the surrounding fields.

Unlike my previous visit, the restaurant is exceptionally busy. Almost every table overlooking the rice paddies is occupied, and we are offered one of the last available tables in the fourth dining section beyond the main restaurant. Rather than feeling disappointed, it proved to be a blessing. The quieter corner offeres uninterrupted views across the surrounding fields, creating an even more peaceful setting for lunch.

It also reveals details I had completely missed the first time. Tucked beside our dining pavilion was a small massage hut where I could happily spend the afternoon enjoying a traditional Balinese massage while overlooking the rice fields. Nearby, a new, neatly maintained vegetable garden appears to be supplying the kitchen with fresh herbs and produce, reinforcing the restaurant’s connection to the surrounding farmland.

Lunch arrives accompanied by a gentle breeze drifting across the paddies. Time seems to slow as we enjoy the tranquil surroundings, chatting about the morning’s adventures with the monkeys and browsing through the growing collection of photos on our phones. It is a meal where the setting is every bit as memorable as the food itself.

A Quiet Walk

After lunch, the boys are eager to head back towards the markets, setting off together while I wait with Grandad for another Grab motorbike to collect him. Watching him disappear along the narrow path brings a smile to my face; it isn’t every day you see an eighty-year-old happily climbing aboard the back of a scooter in the middle of Bali’s rice fields.

Once Grandad is on his way, I find myself walking back alone.

The peaceful surroundings encourage reflection. Without conversation or distraction, I am able to appreciate the gentle rhythm of the rice fields in a way that is often impossible when travelling with a group. It also brings back fond memories of walking this very path with Mum a couple of years earlier. Although the scenery hasn’t changed, the experience somehow has. Then, I had been discovering this hidden corner of Ubud for the first time. Now, I am sharing it with my children, creating an entirely new set of memories while quietly remembering those that have already been made.

Returning to the centre of town, the sounds of scooters and market stalls gradually replace the silence of the paddies. Jasper has been busy while I was gone, proudly showing off a new pair of shoes he negotiated for at one of the market stalls. We spend a little longer browsing for a few final souvenirs before meeting Putra for the journey back to Seminyak.

As the late afternoon traffic carries us south towards the coast, the car is quiet. The boys are absorbed in their phones while Grandad continues to marvel at the traffic chaos. As for me, I reflect further on the day, my memories layered. Ubud has once again delivered everything I like about Bali – its culture, spirituality and extraordinary landscapes – but this visit was made special for the same reason as the last. By sharing it again with family, this time both my father and my boys, it was a reminder that the most memorable journeys aren’t defined solely by the places we visit, but by the people beside us when we experience them.

Good to Know

Ubud is an easy day trip from Seminyak, although allowing around 90 minutes each way is essential, particularly during the busy holiday season. Starting early provides cooler temperatures for exploring the Monkey Forest and gives you more time to enjoy the markets, palaces and rice fields before the afternoon crowds arrive. Comfortable walking shoes, light clothing, sunscreen and plenty of water are highly recommended, as you’ll spend much of the day on foot.

Combining the Sacred Monkey Forest, Ubud Palace, Ubud Water Palace and the Kajeng Rice Fields makes for one of Bali’s most rewarding cultural itineraries. Finish with lunch at Sweet Orange Warung and you’ll experience a wonderful balance of history, spirituality, local culture and natural beauty, all within a single unforgettable day.

Would I Return?

Yes. Last time I didn’t think so, but now that I have I guess it’s never say never…