Onufri Museum

The Onufri Museum is a little gem of medieval preserved and restored artwork located within the walls of Berat Castle. The museum is dedicated to the renowned Albanian painter Onufri. It showcases a collection of religious icons and artwork from the 14th to the 20th century.

As we arrive in the hushed little courtyard outside the museum, the spring flowers burst from their boxes. I purchase a ticket from the little office and proceed into the cool interior of what was the Dormition Cathedral. Also known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of St. Mary, it dates back to the 18th century. The church was converted into a museum in 1986 to honor the works of Onufri, the prominent Albanian icon painter from the 16th century.

History

The Cathedral itself was rebuilt in 1797 and is one of the most representative monuments of Byzantine architecture in the city. The stone slabs of the nave ring with the sound of my footsteps on entry. They simultaneously echo the past and the rich religious and artistic heritage of the region. The central piece here is the iconostasis, a work by Onufri and his school. Both the paintings and the carvings are spectacular in their own way. I lean in to observe more closely. The cracks in the color of the paint, the dust in hard to reach areas of wood carved flowers, birds and other creatures.

The Museum is at the back of the church and while not large, the complex holds around 200 objects. They have been brought together from several churches and monasteries of the region. In addition to icons painted by renown Albanian icon painters Onufri, there are works attributed to Onufri’s son Nikolla, Kostandin Shpataraku and anonymous painters associated with Onufri’s school. The liturgical items bear the signature of Albanian silversmiths of various times, the Cathedral’s wood carvings were crafted by masters Stefan Barka and Naum Ngjela, from Misrasi and Lavdari in the early 19th Century.

Onufri, whose real name was Onufri Qiprioti, is considered one of the most significant figures in Albanian art history. He was active during the post-Byzantine period and his work exemplifies the fusion of Byzantine artistic traditions with local Albanian elements. His icons are known for their vivid colors, intricate details, and expressive style. Some of the most important and notable pieces from the collection are depicted and described further below.

Life Giving Source

This icon (above) is taken from the Saint Elijah church in Berat. It belongs to modern and liberal iconography where the elements of different religions are combined. The element of water here has significant meanings, including being gathered in jugs for drinking, washing and its importance in the sacrament of baptism.

Deisis

Representing the Deisis composition, a common theme in Orthodox Christian art, this features Christ enthroned between the Virgin Mary and St. John the Baptist, who are shown in a prayerful posture.

The Last Supper

“The Last Supper” depicts the biblical event of the Last Supper, where Jesus shared his final meal with his disciples. The versions attributed to Onufri and his school showcases his mastery in composition and use of vibrant colors. The work was taken from the iconostasis of the Church of Saint Mary’s Birth in the local village of Vokopol, Berat.

Seven Saints

This icon of the Seven Saints is taken from the church of St. George in the Castle of Berat. It depicts the seven saints waiting and escorting visitors to the city of ‘one on one windows’, the city of Berat. It is attributed to Adam Kristo from Samarina and has been resorted and ‘refreshed’ under guidance of the Ministry of Culture.

Box of Contributions

This box it attributed to the Cathedral. The the two slots at the top, for coins and paper currency, denotes for contributions during religious ceremony.

The depiction of the Last Judgement is focused on the scene of the psychostasia whereby the Lord’s hand holds the Scale of Justice. The cocoon in the left scale symbolises the soul of a person being judged and hangs weighed against four scrolls of paper on the right pan of the scale. The devil hangs from the right, attempting to outweigh the soul and condemn it to hell, further depicted on the right side of the box. Here, a fish shaped dragon identified as Hades, spews a river of fire which sweeps away people engulfed in its flame.

On the left, the tall domed building is the entrance to Paradise with St. Peter at the gate. St. Paul and the Archangel Michael stand alongside, welcoming the faithful. While artistic skill is thought to be lacking in both composition and execution, the box provides a first hand glimpse into 19th Century concerns within the provincial community whilst simultaneously revealing the relatively compulsive nature of alms-giving solicited by the ecclesiastical authorities of the period.

The Rest

In addition to these iconic pieces, the museum also houses a collection of other objects. These include liturgical objects such as chalices, crosses, and embroidered vestments. They provide further insight into the religious and cultural context of the artworks.

My tour is whirlwind, only around 45 minutes in total. It’s long enough to have a look through and get a feel for the artwork and history. It’s nowhere near long enough to read everything and really soak it in. I leave wanting more, nevertheless, it’s worth the time once you’re already here exploring the rest of Berat Castle.

Visiting the Onufri Museum offers a unique opportunity to explore the artistic legacy of Onufri and his contributions to the development of Albanian religious art. It builds an appreciation for the fusion of Byzantine and Albanian artistic traditions, as well as the cultural and historical significance of these artworks within the region.

Good To Know

The Onufri Museum is located within the walls of the Berat Castle complex. There is some information printed, however, I would recommend the audio guide (which I didn’t take) but would next time. The website and virtual tour are great for the fact that they are available online. However, in practice, the execution is not seamless and as such, information after visiting is difficult to come across.

Would I Return?

No. The museum is a wonderful insight into Onufri and the works of the region. However, the museum is a little far out of the way for a special trip. The website offers a virtual tour which, while not as delightful or immersive as the real thing, is sufficiently insightful.