It is nice to know that there is a Friendly House just around the corner. Arriving in Berat it is already evening. We have travelled all day and now, having checked into our hotel, we are keen to stretch our legs and explore.
The Friendly House in Berat has been recommended for dinner but the boys need to let off some steam first. Plus, I’m still full of byrek from this afternoon.
So we head off from our Hotel Onurfi, down the cobbled land of the old town, towards the river and the atmospheric pedestrian area. A stroll along here confirms that this was a great choice of town to visit to start our tour of Albania. Tonight is Friday night and the locals and tourists alike are out strolling, enjoying the first taste of spring. It is still cold, don’t get me wrong, especially by Dubai standards, and I can feel the chill in the air. It descends as the sun disappears but it is nowhere near as cold as I had expected.
Bulevardi Republika
In the mood to celebrate, due to being on holiday, we find somewhere to sit and order a drink. Beers for us, a local Korca, and mocktails for the boys. It’s not very long before the boys are engaged in a local football game in the park. This leaves us, the adults, for a few moments of conversation and quiet reflection to take in the atmosphere and our beautiful location.
All too soon our calm bubble is burst and we realise it is now most certainly time to feed the pack. Our guide, Endrit, from Albania Private Guide, directs us to the Friendly House, a local favorite. Despite following close behind, I manage to get a little lost along the way. Having missed the entrance, waylaid by stopping to snap a couple of quick photos, Endrit, Jason & the boys disappear. I continue, clueless, up the pretty alleyway, stopping to photograph a few more cute doors and local scenes. After a few minutes when I can’t see or hear anyone up ahead, I turn back. The search party locates me and we are back on track at the Friendly House.
Friendly House
Friendly House Berat offers traditional Albanian dishes in a welcoming environment, not to mention a great location. We are seated on the front terrace with views over the Osumi River to the Gorica area of Berat, over the other side of the bridge. It is all very picturesque.
For our meal we make a selection of local dishes as recommended by Endrit. Stuffed aubergine, cottage cheese & red peppers and stuffed mushrooms. The boys select the somewhat less traditional spaghetti – a carbonara and a pesto pasta. Having said that, Albania has a large Italian population and many Albanians speak Italian, so it makes sense that some culinary traditions have also been adopted. Plus, it’s delicious.
Our meals arrive and, along with a basket of bread, some oil and balsamic, we dig in. The aubergines are baked to perfection and served with a hearty, chunky homemade tomato sauce. The local dish, Fergese, is, without a doubt, one of the most traditional foods in Albania. It is tomato sauce based with cottage cheese, long strips of peppers and garlic. It’s absolutely delicious although the flavor and consistency differ from dish to dish. It goes very well with the bread and the mushrooms. Endrit mentions that mushrooms are relatively new to the menu in Albania, however, it’s location between Italy and Greece, both of whom love their mushrooms makes this seem unusual.
Easter Parade
While we are eating for our meal, a local (Orthodox) Easter parade makes its way through the streets below us and we are treated to a bird’s eye view of the tradition. At the same time, I sit back to admire the mosque next door. WIth its beautifully lit minaret and interesting frescos.
The fact that I am able to admire an Easter parade and a mosque whilst sharing traditional food and 0.5L of very good local red wine, demonstrates just how well Albania has accepted its diverse background and cultures.
Easter Lights
After our delightful dinner we come across a projected Easter light show in the town square near the Gate of the Pasha (corner of Rruga Mihal Komnena and Rruga Antipatrea). Images light up the local ruins and transform the otherwise drab square into a place of beauty and reflection.
Good To Know
Berat pedestrian walk runs along Bulevardi Republika from Rruga Antipatrea to Rruga Santa Lucia. There are many bars and local restaurants located along here and it is a very atmospheric spot for a sundowner or a meal.
Friendly House Berat is located on the Mangalen side of the river, just next to the mosque and opposite the Gorica bridge. Entrance is from the lane behind the building – not too far along!
We stayed at Hotel Onufri as arranged by Julien at Albania Private Guide.
Would I Return?
Yes. Actually, it was so good that we came back the very next night.
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