We arrive in Berat wearied from a travel day although somewhat revived by our recent Byrek late lunch. It’s the perfect time to head out to explore the town, grab a sundowner and enjoy the early spring evening.
Boulevardi Republika
Our hotel, the Onufri is conveniently located in the old town area, less than a 5 minute walk to the Boulevardi Republika, the main pedestrian strip of this small, cosy city.
The evening promenade is just beginning with locals and tourists alike congregating for a drink, tapas, walk and a catch up. It’s not long before my boys get themselves involved in a football game with the local kids. My husband & I grab a table nearby and settle in with a sundowner to watch the local match, before going for a walk to find dinner.
Friendly House
It’s nice to know that there is a Friendly House just around the corner and tonight, this is where we find ourselves for dinner (on our guide’s recommendation). We are seated on the front terrace with views over the Osumi River to the suburb of Gorica. It’s very picturesque and we enjoy it very much as we order and await our meal. Stuffed aubergine, cottage cheese & red peppers, stuffed mushrooms are some of the local dishes and they’re delicious. The boys stick with carbonara and a pesto pasta, also somewhat traditional given the large Italian population.
From here we have a wonderful view of the Bachelor’s Mosque, one of the Mangalam quarter’s three mosques.
Mangalem
Berat’s historic centre is divided into two parts. Mangalem on the one side of the river encapsulates cobbled street cuteness. Boasting boutique hotels and restaurants only accessible by foot, watch your step while you’re busy soaking in the medieval atmosphere highlighted with fairy lights for extra late spring magic.
This quarter is traditionally Muslim and, although only small, boasts three grand mosques. The Sultan’s Mosque, the Lead Mosque and the Bachelor’s Mosque. The Bachelor’s Mosque is a 19th century mosque overlooking the Osumi River, It was built for unmarried shop assistants and junior craftsmen, aptly named with its position amongst some of the fine Ottoman era shopfronts.
Gorica
Gorica, on the opposite side of the Onufri River is equally cobbled and atmospheric although navigating is a little more difficult. If you have time, enjoy losing yourself in the maze and savour the history as it seeps into your soul. The views across to Mangalem, once you have a bit of height, truly make the thousand stacked windows is worth it!
Berat Castle
The next day we explore Berat Castle. Perhaps better described as a fortress, this neighbourhood (also known as Kalaja or Kala), covers the top of the hill that forms the backdrop to Mangalem. The original center of Berat, the complex takes in walls, towers, churches and mosque ruins as well as numerous small buildings that are maintained today as houses, restaurants, museums, shops and guest accommodations.
The quiet cobbled streets give way to courtyards with bursts of spring chamomile between every stone. With ruins in the foreground and mountains in the background, the whole feel is rather mystical and magical.
The Inner Fortress occupies the highest point on the hill. A ruined archway leads to an ancient water cistern. From here we follow another cobbled path, past local vendors selling fruit, nuts and home made preserves, to the Berat Viewing Platform. The platform offers more sweeping views over the town, the mountains and the Osumi River.
Onufri Museum
Within the walls of Berat Castle, the Onufri Museum is housed in the Kalaja quarter’s biggest church, the Church of the Dormition of St. Mary. The museum is well worth a look through and houses many paintings, icons and artworks of famous Albanian artists.
Ask at the museum to see inside some of the other, smaller churches, that usually remain locked, including St Theodore, the picturesque Holy Trinity, St Mary Blachernae and St. Nicholas. In addition, be sure to see the Red Mosque (ruins) behind the water cistern. This was the first mosque in Berat, dating to the 15th century.
Osumi River Rafting
The Osumi River is calling. Up river from Berat, the canyons ensure that your Osumi River Rafting adventure awaits.
It’s a few hours drive out to where the rafting begins but it’s worth the effort once we’re all paddling, despite the freezing water. The canyons are spectacular, looming above us in layer upon layer of rock formations. The waterfalls are majestic and the rapids just challenging enough to keep things interesting! Read more here…
Alpeta Winery
A short, 30 minute drive from Berat is the Alpeta Winery. This small vineyard and family restaurant has been run for generations. Today we enjoy a short tour and wine tasting as well as a long, delicious Saturday lunch with the locals. A variety of Albanian food and wine is on offer and we thoroughly enjoy the Fiska family’s hospitality for the afternoon.
Read more about the Alpeta Winery here…
Good To Know
Walking Berat and enjoying the surroundings and activities on offer means that a few days based in Berat is worthwhile. The city itself boasts history and culture with the castle, mosques and the old town areas of Mangalem and Gorica. Out of the city, rafting and a vineyard tour are popular activites and there are always more restaurants to enjoy.
Albania is full of surprises. Gjirokasta’s unique UNESCO World Heritage city centre, the culture or the Monastery of Ardenica and the capital of Tirana are just some of the delights. Now, out walking Berat, there are even more layers to uncover of this fascinating country.
Would I Return?
No. This is a beautiful and historic city that is well worth the visit but there is not enough here to draw me back.