Arriving in Veliko Tarnovo is like stepping back in time. Arriving in the early evening at the end of a long travel day, my travel companion Charlotte and I are keen to get a little exploring done before the day is out. We launch ourselves into Veliko Tarnovo to take in all it has to offer.
A Short Walking Tour
The first thing we notice immediately outside our accommodation at the Yantra Hotel, is a giant mural near pl. Velchova Zavera. These modern looking murals depicting medieval scenes are scattered around the town. It is unclear whether this mural commemorates the same unsuccessful 1835 uprising against the Ottomans as the Square of the same name that it is set adjacent to.
None the wiser about the murals origin, we start out from here to walk along ul. Velcho Dzhamdzhiyata and ul. Ivan Vazov (streets) down the hill to Tsar Asen I Square. Along the way we pass picturesque laneways; the majestic Museum of the Revival and Constituent Assembly which served as the police headquarters during the Ottoman rule; and some bright Easter decorations in front of the Regional Audit Council.
From Tsar Asen I Square we have sweeping views of Tsaravets and Trapezitsa Fortresses as well as the steeply stacked cityscape on both sides, hugging the curves of the Yantra River. Many Ottoman style houses can be seen from here and from various lookouts around the city. They are distinguishable due to their whitewashed facades with wooden balconies. Usually two (or more) stories high, the design is primarily due to frugality whereby homeowners were taxed on the footprint of the ground floor. Thus, many floors made sense and often the upper floors are larger creating an overhang making the house look like it’s perched.
A Short History
As the sun sets, the sky becomes reminiscent of a watercolor painting and the true medieval grandeur of this royal city, the City of Tsars, is revealed. Once the capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire (12th to 15th Centuries), Tǎrnovo was a hub of power and prestige, thriving as the political, cultural and economic centre of the Empire. During this time, when the Tsars ruled from Tsaravets Fortress, one of those Tsars was the much loved Ivan Asen II. He fled Bulgaria as a child after the death of his father and the subsequent murder of his ruling uncle. He returned to seize the capital from a cousin and ruled for 23 years during which time he greatly expanded the kingdom and Tǎrnovo was considered a “New Constantinople”.
The glory of Tsarevets Fortress in its heyday can be felt from the reflection of the sun’s last rays on the ruins of the city that lay within its protection. The many residences, churches, businesses and monasteries that existed on this hill alongside the royal castle glow. So does the the Cathedral which topped the hill, now reconstructed in modernist style.
We turn back to the town its lights making it come alive for the evening. We walk back along the road that hugs the river, past the Cathedral Rozhdestvo Bogorodichno and along ul. Stefan Stambolov taking in the evening’s festivities and more street art.
The festivities are due to the holiday weekend due to St George’s Day (6 May) and the end of the week of Orthodox Easter. The streets are lively with couples and groups strolling along looking for somewhere for dinner. We come across a small square with a restaurant – music and patrons spilling into the street – and could almost get swept away in it.
Still, we walk on a little further through the old town to find Shtastliveca after a recommendation from our guide, Adriana.
Shtastliveca Restaurant
After a short wait we are seated with a glass of rakia, the local liquor, in our hand and a wonderful view over our shoulders.
Rakia is a spirit distilled from fruit. I have chosen an apricot version while Charlotte has opted for the more traditional grape variety. Both are potent and I don’t detect any apricot (or any other fruit) in mine. Just a very strong liquor imparting a lovely tingle into my tired legs.
Our view is towards the Monument to the Asen Dynasty and the Interhotel Veliko Tarnovo (notable due to its brutalist/socialist modernist architecture). Not that we can see much of them now that it’s quite dark. Nevertheless we can see another natural amphitheatre of stacked Ottoman style houses once again hugging the reach of the Yantra River to which they cling.
Hungry, it is now getting quite late, we hastily order a main of cheese and spinach stuffed red peppers and a side of salad – simple tomato, goat’s cheese and local Bulgarian sausage.
The food is delicious and we wash it down with a pretty decent Bulgarian house wine. Despite being tempted by gelato earlier in the day, we quickly fold at the suggestion of dessert. We settle on the Shtastliveca biscuit cake and a layered gateau, to share, of course.
On the way back to the hotel and full after a very satisfying meal, I still can’t help but be tempted by a gelato, especially when it promises happiness! Still, I’m feeling pretty chuffed in any case after such a lovely evening and with the promise of more fabulous exploration tomorrow.
I reluctantly give the gelato a miss and enjoy another mural or two (much more calorie friendly) as well as the fresh air on my face and in my lungs as we seek our bed for the night.
Tsarevets Fortress
The next morning we retrace our steps down to the gate of Tsaravets Fortress to explore the ruins. The light may not be as soft today as it was last night but the fortress’s history and importance still shine through as we explore the Cathedral, the ruins and the views.
Good To Know
Find more information about Tsarevets Fortress here and see also Trapezitsa Fortress for things to do in Veliko Tarnovo.
Don’t miss the chance of a meal at Shtastliveca. With a bit more time, take a wander over to the Monument to the Asen Dynasty. This sits alongside the State Art Gallery which looks worth a visit, if only for the beauty of the building. If shopping and street art are more your style be sure to stroll along the quaint Georgi S. Rakovski Street for locally produced craft or the more modern Nezavisimost Street for charming shops and restaurants.
Make your way up and down some hidden stairways to General Greko Street for endearing views of the Yantra River amongst picturesque ‘stacked’ Ottoman style houses. You’ll never want to leave!
We traveled Bulgaria with Adriana from Private Guide Bulgaria. See also:
Would I Return?
Yes. This is a beautiful town well worth a(nother) visit.
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