Walking Zürich – Zürichsee

By far the best way to see a city is to walk it.  Particularly the compact old towns of Europe.  Today I’m walking the Zürichsee. Not everyone has the ability, stamina or perhaps enthusiasm for this endeavor, walking from dawn till dusk (and often into the night as well).  I love it.  Whenever the opportunity arises, I’m there.

It’s true that some cities are not designed to be easily walk-able (i.e. Dubai) and there are cities where the sights are just simply too far flung to make walking between attractions feasible (i.e. Canberra).  In Zürich, however, walking is by far the best option.  I don my walking shoes and set out.

Zürichsee

I start out from Rössligasse near Grossmünster, the Romanesque 12th Century Cathedral, and walk my way down past Stadelhofen train station Sechseläutenplatz in front of the Opera House which is currently acting as one of the hubs of the Zürich International Film Festival.  The sun glistens on the lake and I pause to drink my coffee and eat a kase Brezelkönig (cheese pretzel shaped roll), sharing a few crumbs with the waiting ducks and insistent swans.

There are many people walking, despite the relatively early hour and I walk along over Quaibrücke where there are markets in full swing in Stadthausenlange.  I take a browse around the trash and treasure then make my way to the water’s edge at Bürkliplatz.

Bürkliplatz, Lake Zürich’s ferry terminal, is already unloading and loading boats of locals and tourists alike.  Bürkliplatz takes its name from Arnold Bürkli (1833–1894), the engineer credited for managing the construction project of the city’s quays which connects the local lake districts with Zürich via Bürkliplatz and further quays on up the Limmat to the Landsmuseum.

Many more walk along the wooden platforms taking photos back to the Opera House and of the snow capped mountains in the distant south over the water.  Yet more watch the ducks and swans swim about and I gaze into the deep green water and see fish swimming about.

A little farther past the ferry terminal there is a lovely park where those that are up early this fine morning are running or doing yoga by the lake.  The oak trees are just turning their colors and the tall pines reflect the posture of the masts of the many boats anchored on the lake nearby.

Some of the boats look like they’re available for summer rentals but most are covered now.  I also discover a floating restaurant and bar.  Named the Seebad Enge (Enge Seaside Resort) it is a restaurant and ‘bath’ or ‘pool’ constructed on the lake itself by enclosing a swimming hole within the wooden decking.  Touted as a ‘resort’, it’s open in summer, making the most of the natural surroundings for the relatively short time of the year that the lake would be warm enough to swim in.  It is not open this morning.

I spot a cafe further round the shore and, ever in search of coffee, walk on to Quai 61 to check it out.  The breakfast smells waft out as I get closer and even the swans seem to be eager for something but alas there is a set menu and no a la carte available this morning.  Never mind, I spotted a couple of other options on the way over here so I make my way back.

I take a different path through the arboretum and discover what is on the map as a ‘zoo’.  I don’t enter inside but there is an aviary full of a variety of birds making a awful joyful din.   I pass the same yoga group on the grass and once again at the shore, gaze back to the boats bobbing gently.

Back past Bürkliplatz, I wander back over Quaibrücke and settle in for coffee at the Odeon, a Swiss coffee institution.  It doesn’t have quite the same view as by the lake but the history of the place seems to infuse the coffee and it’s obvious that someone has been doing something right here for a very long time.

As I emerge from my coffee break I realise that Zürich isn’t just a city of finance and banking.  It has a natural beauty and vibrancy and is set amongst some of the most breathtaking landscape that Mother Earth has to offer.

Add to this the cobbled streets, parks, platz, restaurants and shops and this particular old town is clearly modern and relevant whilst it maintains its natural beauty and charm at the same time.  And the best thing about it?  It call all be discovered on foot!

Good To Know

Whilst old town Zürich is a rich hub of culture and history, the fantastically efficient and cheap public transport across both the city and the country made Switzerland an appealing place to take off and discover.

Still, if it’s city you’re after, check out more of Altstadt Zürich here:

• Lake Zürich & Rapperswil
• Walking Zürich – Rathaus & Hochschulen
• Walking Zürich – Lindenhof & the City
• Walking Zürich – Zürichsee
• Grossmünster
• Fraumünster

Would I Return?

Yes.  Not usually one for the cold, if there is one place it would be worth soaking up the winter it’s Switzerland.  Skiing is most certainly on my list and many of the resorts are easily accessible from Zürich.  Not that I would turn down a trip at any time of the year, given half a chance.