Grossmünster

Originally a monastery, Grossmünster (gross = large or great and münster = minster or cathedral) is arguably the heart of old town Zürich.  Construction began on this site in 1100 but there are two legends woven into the founding of this historic cathedral.

The cathedral’s two patrons, Saint Felix and Saint Regula, fled to Zürich from Valais at the end of the 3rd Century.  They were said to be members of the Thebaic Legion which had been largely massacred because of their Christian beliefs.  Felix and Regula escaped the massacre.  On arrival in Zürich they were executed as matyrs at the site of the Wasserkirche and are said to have picked up their severed heads and ascended to the Grossmünster site where they wished to be buried.

Later it is said that Charlemagne was hunting and pursued a stag all the way from northern Germany (Aachen) to Zürich.  When his horse stumbled over the graves of Felix and Regula, he founded Grossmünster on the site.

Although the legends are intriguing, the cathedral is perhaps more famously known for being the starting point of the Reformation in Switzerland, led by Huldrych Zwingly (1484- 1531).  At this time, all embellishments were eliminated from the church and the focus of worship became the study of the Holy Scriptures and preaching of the Gospel.  Pictures, art, sculptures and even the altar were removed.

Today the church appears plain compared to some but this, perhaps, makes some of the features even more discernible.  For example, the three choir window by Augusto Giacometti (1933) are a magnificent display of color depicting the Christmas story.  The spiritual focus of the church is evident in the detail of the pulpit (1853) and christening baptismal font (1598).

Certainly impressive is the scale of Romanesque building and the towers are arguably the most recognisable landmark of the city.  Originally made of wood, the spires burnt down and were replaced with the current neo-Gothic towers in 1787.

Both the north and south portals have large bronze doors although these are more modern additions by Otto Münch (1950) which “comprise a theological lecture illustrating particular stories from the bible”.

A sculpture of Heinrich Bullinger, Zwingli’s successor, sits on the northern wall.  Perhaps of more note, however, is the small horse and rider higher up above the sculpture.  This is said to be the oldest known portrayal of a horseman in the northern Alps (dates to 1180).

Despite all this it is perhaps the steep climb up the south tower to the spectacular views of the city that is most worthwhile.  And the view from here is something that doesn’t need words or explanation.  Sometimes appreciation is enough.

Would I Return?

Yes.  It’s hard to visit Zürich without coming across Grossmünster or Fraumünster across the Limmat River.  It is part of the skyline of the city from almost every angle and a visit to the city wouldn’t be complete without a visit here.  Be sure to make the climb if you can.