By far the best way to see a city is to walk it. Particularly the compact old towns of Europe. Not everyone has the ability, stamina or perhaps enthusiasm for this endeavor, walking from dawn till dusk (and often into the night as well). I love it. Whenever the opportunity arises, I’m there.
It’s true that some cities are not designed to be easily walk-able (i.e. Dubai) and there are cities where the sights are just simply too far flung to make walking between attractions feasible (i.e. Canberra). In Zürich, however, walking is by far the best option. I don my walking shoes and set out.
The Limmat
The Limmat is Zürich’s river, it begins at Lake Zürich or the Zürichsee and flows northwest to the river Aare at Brugg, around 35km away. Although I am only walking a small portion of its length, I have no doubt that the rest is just as picturesque, albeit in a different way.
Here, in Zürich, I begin at Lake Zürich where Quaibrücke marks the end of the lake and the beginning of the Limmat proper. From here there are six more bridges across the river in the Altstadt (Old Town) district and all are best discovered at walking pace.
Originally the Limmat this close to the lake was mostly small islands amongst swampland where the habitats were set on piles to prevent flooding. Over time both the Limmat receded and the banks of the river were filled in to form today’s modern day city. The next bridge crossing upriver from the lake and Quaibrücke is Münsterbrücke (minster or church bridge) which is flanked by Fraumünster and the Wasserkirche on either end, not to mention the unmistakable Grossmünster just up the rise.
There is evidence that the lake’s water level was once up as far as Fraumünster while the Wasserkirche once sat on an island of its own, surrounded by water (hence the name) in the middle of the city.
In the late 18th century, quays were built on the lake and up river, with further canals being formed to act as a water transport system for the city which still runs today as part of the wider and very efficient SBB (the Swiss federal railways network).
Lindenhof and the Limmat-Club Zürich
Although rivers were once integral to human settlement, today the river still serves a couple of important functions. It links Zürich city from upriver to Bürkliplatz (the ferry terminal) and the city’s surrounding cantons by water on the lake. I ride the ferry up the Limmat from Bürkliplatz to the Landesmuseum, walk a section of the Schanzengraben and enjoy the views of Lake Zürich all the way to Rapperswil and back.
In the other direction, the length of the river (out of the city) also contains around ten hydroelectric power generation plants.
The Limmat from near the Haubtbahnhof
Given the way the sun sparkles on the water during the day and the lights from its surrounds dances across it when the sun sets, it’s no wonder that this river forms part of the beating heart of the city. It’s not enough to drive over a bridge to discover the Limmat, it should be viewed from many and varied angles and at different times of the day and night to be truly appreciated. This makes discovering it on foot even more imperative.
Good To Know
Whilst old town Zürich is a rich hub of culture and history, the fantastically efficient and cheap public transport across both the city and the country made Switzerland an appealing place to take off and discover.
Still, if it’s city you’re after, check out more of Altstadt Zürich here:
- Lake Zürich & Rapperswil
- Walking Zürich -Zürichsee
- Walking Zürich – Rathaus & Hochschulen
- Walking Zürich – Lindenhof & the City
- Grossmünster
- Fraumünster
Would I Return?
Yes. Not usually one for the cold, if there is one place I can think that would be worth soaking up the winter it’s Switzerland. Skiing is most certainly on my list and many of the resorts are easily accessible from Zürich. Not that I would turn down a trip at any time of the year, given half a chance.
