By far the best way to see a city is to walk it. Particularly the compact old towns of Europe. Today I am walking the Rathaus & Hochschulen. Not everyone has the ability, stamina or perhaps enthusiasm for this endeavor, walking from dawn till dusk (and often into the night as well). I love it. Whenever the opportunity arises, I’m there.
It’s true that some cities are not designed to be easily walk-able (i.e. Dubai) and there are cities where the sights are just simply too far flung to make walking between attractions feasible (i.e. Canberra). In Zürich, however, walking is by far the best option. I don my walking shoes and set out.
Die Altstadt – Rathaus & Hochschulen
On the east side of the Limmat River are the Rathaus (Town Hall) and Hochschulen (University) areas of medieval Altstadt (Old Town) Zürich.
The Rathaus quarter encompasses the inner part of the eastern old town which takes in Limmatquai and is bordered by Predigerkirche and Niederdorf in the north and Grossmünster down Oberdorfstrasse in the south.
Limmatquai itself is the street that runs along the east bank of the Limmat River for about a kilometer at the very centre of the Aldstadt. Historically the river came right up to the houses along this stretch which served the town’s trade connecting the river on one side with the streets of the town on the other.
Within the Limmatquai as well as the broader boundaries of the Rathaus area are endless little lane ways and small platz (squares) to discover here, all which seem to lead eventually back to Münstergasse and Marktgasse, Stüssihofstatt and Niederdorfstrasse respectively as you head further north. I lose myself in the little streets, the shops are just opening for the morning and I browse some, making the most of the quietness and the chance to capture the colors and cobbles at their crowd free morning best.
There are clothes shops, jewelry and knickknacks, some tasteful local art and sculpture and of course chocolate. Many more restaurants and cafes are setting up for the day but there are few dine in breakfast options with much more focus being on lunch and dinner.
Historical highlights of the Old Town include three of the four most important churches and the one that stands out the most is certainly Grossmünster, a Protestant Cathedral that dominates the skyline along the banks of the Limmat River.
The Cathedral played an important part in the Reformation and is one of the highlights of architectural Zürich.
There is also Predigerkirche (another Protestant Church) and the Wasserkirche (Reformed Church).
Predigerkirche was originally Predigerkloster, a Dominican Order monastery from 1234- 1524 and still has the tallest church tower in the city. The least identifiable as a church is the Wasserkircher (literally Water Church) which today sits out into the river but was originally built on an island and surrounded by the Limmat. While somewhat less remarkable than the other three of the city’s historic churches it is particularly famed for being the site of the execution of the Saints Felix and Remula who are said to have picked up their heads after being decapitated and ascending up the hill to Grossmünster, where they were buried.
Not far from Predigerkirche on Hirschengraben is the Kunsthaus (art museum) and the Museum Bibliothek (library) but today I head the other way, across the road from the back of Predigerkirche where I discover a steep set of steps that lead all the way up to the University where the terrace overlooks the town, affording wonderful views of the whole city to the western hills.
Back down the hill in the maze of the old town pedestrian zone, the restaurants are filling up and Grimmentrum (below) is a restaurant housed in an historic medieval tower and is one of the fortresses of the old city.
As I pop out through a doorway and realise I’m back on Münstergasse I also realise that Zürich isn’t just a city of finance and banking. It has a long and intricate history, just like so many Old Towns.
The streets, parks, platz, restaurants and shops all serve to make this particular old town modern and relevant whilst it maintains its historic nature and charming aesthetics at the same time. And the best thing about it? It call all be discovered on foot!
Good To Know
Whilst old town Zürich is a rich hub of culture and history, the fantastically efficient and cheap public transport across both the city and the country made Switzerland an appealing place to take off and discover.
Still, if it’s city you’re after, check out more of Altstadt Zürich here:
- Lake Zürich & Rapperswil
- Walking Zürich – Zürichsee
- Walking Zürich – Rathaus & Hochschulen
- Walking Zürich – Lindenhof & the City
- Grossmünster
- Fraumünster
Would I Return?
Yes. Not usually one for the cold, if there is one place it would be worth soaking up the winter it’s Switzerland. Skiing is most certainly on my list and many of the resorts are easily accessible from Zürich. Not that I would turn down a trip at any time of the year, given half a chance.
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