I board the boat for Rapperswil with an expectation of a lake Zürich cruise and the vague promise of a Schloss (castle) at the end. It’s not like me. Usually I have my days planned to the ‘n’th degree but, apart from today being an unexpected bonus, I think I’m mellowing a little in my holiday expectations. There seem to be more and more exceptions. Perhaps I have learned that a little flexibility leaves room for some unexpected delights. Already today promises to be just that.
I have boarded with a couple of minutes to spare and despite, or perhaps because of this tour boat being part of the greater Swiss public transport network, it departs on the dot. As the ducks and swans scatter and the two towers of Grossmünster and the cherubs of the Opera House fade into the distance, the lake sparkles and the distant mountains beckon.
I make my way around the boat snapping pictures at every angle, none of which do the scenery justice. Eventually I settle at a table in the bistro, as much to be out of the wind than for something to eat. It is nearly lunchtime though and my breakfast banana seems a long time ago so as I peruse the menu I decide lunch is in order after all. I decide on a curry wurst with homemade potato salad and a Zürich-hell (beer) and settle in for the ride.
I say settle but my lunch and in fact the rest of the ride is peppered by interruptions to jump up and duck outside to take photos. The scenery is impossibly beautiful.
The boat makes numerous stops to pick up and drop off passengers. I enquire as to local attractions along the way but to no avail. My Swiss-German is woeful and there is not much bilingual representation from the ticket seller either. Everyone else, from the hotel receptionist to the restaurant and retail staff to the ticket seller at the train station has spoken English so I have no right to complain.
I content myself with the view which somehow gets better as we go along.
The stops along the way: Thalwil, Herrliberg, Oberrieden, Horgan, Stafa, Each its own post card worthy snap of Swiss summer lakeside perfection. Only the snow capped peaks in the distance and the slight chill of the boat induced breeze reminds me of the extremes the seasons represent here.
After a very leisurely ride I finally spot a castle topped hill and conclude that we must be drawing into Rapperswil. This is where the majority of passengers disembark to join the already lunching day crowd. The marina-side restaurants are overflowing with patrons.
I walk into town and follow the lure of the castle up the hill. Finally after a long cobbled climb and with views of the nearby deer park, I enter the castle. It seems that the public portion is also a Swiss-Polish museum so it looks like I’m getting a 2-4-1 as I pay the entrance fee and make my way through the exhibits.
There is lots to see but little is in English and so, with the exception of a short printed catalogue that I borrowed from the counter, I interpret what I can. It’s interesting enough and the view from the top of the tower is worth every step of the climb.
Back outside there are a couple of small churches to check out. The remainder of the town is picturesque though small.
After a little while I find myself back in the main square (Fischmarktplatz) and return to dieci 10 gelato that I spotted earlier and decide to indulge. It is worth the wait! Raspberry, mandarin and lemon. The raspberry and lemon are pretty great, as expected, but you know you’ve uncovered the best kind of gelato when the mandarin has that same summery sweetness and tang that you only get at peak season. It is fabulous! I seriously consider another serving of mandarin but then decide that might be construed as greedy.
Willpower firmly in place, I walk some more, this time back aling the waterfront and around the peninsula under the monastery. Rapperswil is known as the city of roses and it doesn’t disappoint with many blooms still in full force.
As I contemplate whether to walk further or head up the hill to the monastery I see the return boat docking and decide out to wait for the next one. I could catch the train back to save some time but it seems such a waste to forego the return by Zurichsee so I reboard and find myself a table, debating whether to order coffee or beer.
The return trip is spent alternately gazing out of the window, jumping up to take (yet) more photos and writing, trying to capture in words something that can’t really be explained, only experienced (although a photograph or two may help with some of the interpretation). After all, there are only so many ways to articulate ‘breathtaking ‘. Certainly in this case words may never be enough.
The stops on the return journey are just as pretty and by now, late in the afternoon, somewhat more lively as the long lunch crowd have settled in. I watch as the snow capped mountains disappear into the distance and the spire of Fraumünster beyond Quaibrücke return to visibility.
As the boat pulls up to the terminal at Bürkliplatz, I’m ever so grateful that my flexibility allowed for today’s unexpected delights. Clearly this is something I should give more consideration to in the future.
Good To Know
There is lots to see and do in and around Zürich and its beautiful lake. Buy a day ticket (24 hours) for public transport and you can use all manner of public transport, including the ferries. Return by train if you don’t have time to enjoy the return by boat. Walking is also a great way to get around the compact Altstadt (Old Town).
- Walking Zürich – Zürichsee
- Walking Zürich – Rathaus & Hochschulen
- Walking Zürich – Lindenhof & the City
- Grossmünster
- Fraumünster
Would I Return?
Yes. Either for lunch at one of the waterside restaurants on an equally sparkling day or for skiing on some of those snow capped mountains. Perhaps both.
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