Fraumünster

On the other side of the Limmat River from the Grossmünster cathedral, directly across Münsterbrücke (church bridge) is Kirche Fraumünster.  This church was founded as a convent in 853 and like Grossmünster the church was stripped of all decoration at the time of the Reformation.  The various altars were removed and the pulpit became the focus of the church, a place of preaching rather than ornament.

The church was built when the waters of the lake reached this far upriver and the Benedictine convent had significant power over the city.  The convent’s power had come in the form of royal decree.  From the 11th century, the royal decree gave the convent the right to mint coins, collect tolls and hold markets.  From the 13th century, the abbess was given the title of Imperial Princess and effectively ruled the city until the Reformation changed everything.  At the time of the Reformation in 1524, the abbey, along with all its assets, were handed over to the city of Zürich.

Also like Grossmünster, it is linked to the legends of Saint Felix and Saint Regula.  The legend has it that Hildegard and Bertha, two pious young princesses, followed a stag sent by God from their father’s castle.  The stag led them to the place where they later returned to have Fraumünster built.  The princesses became the first abbesses of the convent.  There is a large mural depicting this story and under which there remains are said to have lain since the 13th century.

Although this story undoubtedly gives decoration to the history of the church, the interior remains relatively plain in keeping with the beliefs and tradition introduced during the Reformation.  There is an modern exception, however.

In 1970, five stained glass artworks by Marc Chagall were inaugurated as requested by the then pastor of Fraumünster.  The color and modern expressiveness of the features of the work is in contrast to the much subdued remainder of the interiors.

The focal point is the centre window, the Christ Window.  Here Jesus’ birth is represented towards the bottom of the panel with the new born Christ in his mother’s arms while the crucified Christ hovers high above.

To the left of this, the blue Jacob Window depicts Jacob as the progenitor of the Israelites, who wrestles with an angel beneath Jacob’s ladder leading to heaven.

On the right of the Christ Window is a yellow window with King David as a shepherd boy while above him the holy city of Jerusalem descends to earth.

Two more windows face into the choir, one in red showing the prophet Elijah and another in a lighter blue showing Moses with the Ten Commandments.

At the other end of the church is another glass work of art by Augusto Giacometti.  This work, known as the Heavenly Paradise is somewhat more traditional through no less intricate in appearance.

All in all, while the church interior itself is rather plain, it acts as the perfect backdrop to these more modern masterpieces.  Indeed while compared to the lavishly decorated churches of Italy or an ornate Russian Orthodox church, what the Fraumünster lacks in overt opulence it more than makes up in modern tastefulness as well as its historic importance to Switzerland and the city of Zürich.

Good To Know

Opening times are between 10am – 6pm (1 March – 31 October) while the rest of the year, the church closes at 5pm.  It is closed during services and events so pick your time carefully and be prepared to return after a service.  Weddings are particularly popular during the weekend.

There is a CHF5 charge to enter and visitors are requested to respect the silence and not to use cameras or mobile phones whilst in the church.

Would I Return?

Yes.  Sitting in the choir admiring the Chagall Windows makes for a solemn moment of quiet reflection.  And I wish I’d picked up one of the magnet souvenirs of the Windows.