This fabulous museum is hidden behind construction work as I approach with my luggage. It’s my last stop in Beirut before I have to leave and it’s most definitely a must see.
I work my way around the museum, starting on the entrance level, followed by the basement exhibits and leaving the first floor until last. Perhaps it might have been better to work from top to bottom. However you approach it, make the most of the fabulous ipad based guide and don’t miss the introductory video.
The following is based on my discovery and experience – both from what I learned from the museum exhibits, what I am able to remember from my tour of Byblos (mostly from my fabulous guide, Francoise), and from further external research. I have broken it into five main topics, based on my favorite exhibits, which is not necessarily representative of all the items on display.
The Ahiram Sarcophagus
The Ahiram Sarcophagus, perhaps the most famous in the museum, was found in a tomb of the royal necropolis of Byblos. There were numerous sarcophagus uncovered at the site, however this is the only one that is inscribed and decorated with reliefs. It has some parts that appear to have been painted red and may have been reused at some time around the 10th Century BC. This seems perhaps a bit morbid to me.
The Phoenician inscription indicates that Ahiram’s son, Itthobaal, had the coffin made for his father, the King of Byblos, when he placed him for all eternity.
“Now, if a king among kings, or a governor among governors or a commander of an army should come up against Byblos and uncover this coffin, may the sceptre of his rule be torn away, may the throne of his kingdom be overturned and may peace flee from Byblos. An [as for] him, may his inscription be effaced…”.
I wonder if the archaeologists that uncovered this found these words slightly disturbing.
The king, sitting on a throne flanked by winged sphinxes, receives offerings from a procession lead by dignitaries which are depicted on the side of the sarcophagus. Holding it up are four lions, carved into the base with their heads cleverly protruding at the end to serve as handles. The main reason it’s famous is because it is the oldest known example of Phoenician text using 19 of the 22 characters.
The Ahiram Sarcophagus – end detail
The Greeks
Laid out reverently in the main hall are several other sarcophagi. The next is known as the Sarcophagus of the Battles Between the Greeks, just on the left of the entrance.
The detail of of the main part is phenomenal, the intertwined bodies with a sense of action and movement, even when carved in stone. The lid looks like a large book from the side and the figures reposing on top could be intimidating, I wonder what expression they had before they lost their heads.
On the other side of the gallery is the Sarcophagus with the Legend of Archilleus. It depicts the body of Hector, the fallen Trojan hero, being dragged behind Archilles’ chariot. Archillies is seated on the right being begged to release the body to Priam, Hector’s father, who kneels at his feet. The majority of the soldiers are depicted in ‘heroic nudity’ which represents their honor.
I think the crack in the lid adds to the mystery of this one in particular.
The Romans
Likewise the charred back of this tribune, which displays sculptured figures split into upper and lower parts, adds a sense of history and danger. The upper part is an assembly of gods with Apollo at the centre holding a cithera. Athena stands to Apollo’s side holding a helmet while Zeus sits on a throne with Hera beside him. Behind Apollo, Leto faces Artemis. The lower display features a procession of dancers and musicians.
A little later, the Sarcophagus with Sailing Boat catches my eye. This one is hard to miss. It’s the first thing that you spot descending the stairs to the newly opened (2016) basement of the building. The long sides of the sarcophagus depict lions and garlands. But the feature is really the Roman merchant vessel on one end. It has a finely carved boat with a rounded hull, curving at the stern in the shape of a swan’s neck. The detail of the balustrades, sail filled with wind, ropes, mast and rudder is quite intricate. The water as well, contains dolphins on either side, one wrapped around a trident and a fish in the middle. These marine figures were believed to symbolise the promise of good seamanship.
The Anthropoids
If the Ahiram Sarcophagus is the most famous sarcophagus here, then the Anthropoid Sarcophagi is surely the most famous collection. The basement is designed specifically to showcase funerary art, the highlight of the exhibition. A dramatic display of thirty-one anthropoid sarcophagi from Sidon.
This collection is characteristic of Phoenician funerary art from the 5th century BC. There are several different influences at play here. Firstlly Egyptian, due to the detail of the mask. Secondly Greek, due to the marble used (which is imported from one of the Greek islands) and because of the wavy hairstyles used which were fashionable in Greece at the time. Lastly, Persian influence is present, identified by the rounded trough and lid.
Whatever influences have come together to create these, it is certainly both and eerie and moving sight to behold.
There are more sarcophagus in the collection at the National Museum of Beirut. The anthropoid collection is the largest of its kind in the world. The other sarcophagi located in the main gallery are a wonderful insight into our ancient past. However, they are also a testament to the more recent past, evidenced by how well they have been preserved and cared for in the time during and since the civil war.
Good To Know
See the other posts in the National Museum of Beirut series:
The exhibit is set out over three floors. Allow a minimum of 2-3 hours for your visit. But if you want to read about everything, allow more time. Be sure to obtain the free guide available at the cloak room desk. This is just in front of the shop on the left as you enter. Also, don’t miss the 15 minute introductory video which plays on the right side of the entrance. This is a must see. It explains the history of the museum and the thought and care that has been taken to restore both the building and the exhibits after the devastation of the civil war.
Would I Return?
Yes. By comparison to others the Beirut National Museum is a relatively small museum but it has a rich history, not only in the exhibits but in the building and the story. Don’t miss the introductory video, it had me in tears!
3 Replies to “National Museum of Beirut – Sarcophagi”