Byblos

After a morning visiting Jeita Grotto and Harissa, I am keen to get to Byblos.  The grotto is a natural wonder, big and impressive, and Harissa has an aura of the pilgrimage, where the significance is not lost on me.  But for me, Byblos is the pièce de résistance of this excursion.  I am not disappointed.

The History of Byblos

Byblos, from the Greek biblion, meaning book, and sometimes translated to Bible, is an ancient city with layers upon layers of history.  Also referred to as Gebal or Jebail (Arabic), its history began around 5,000 BC when it was inhabited by a small Neolithic fishing community.  It is another of those places, like the Pyramids, that seems lost in time to me.  Something only imagined from parables in religion classes in high school and not a place that I ever dreamed I might see for myself.  Yet here I am.

I am with my fantastic tour guide Francoise (Kurban Tours), after having been dropped at the entrance to the old town by Francois, our driver.  We cross the road and immediately I spot some ruins, ancient columns and crumbling cobblestones that look like they should be a road.  They were.  Although Byblos is thought to have been inhabited from around 8,800 BC, these Roman columns are attributed to the time of Classical Antiquity (which stretched from 8th Century BC to the 6th Century AD).

Roman Construction

The columns line another Roman construction, a road which would have been a main road, or cardo maximus, a thoroughfare for traffic to and from the heart of the city.

We wander down this historic pathway and Francoise regales me with stories of ancient times and peoples, of dates and facts. My mind boggles.  She is a lecturer at AUL University and with a Master of History (Art & Archaeology) her knowledge of these things seems practically encyclopedic to me.  As we enter the Old Souk, I am enlightened as to its history.  It was built in the Ottoman era as the economic centre close to the harbor and consisting of a few inns, some shops and horse stables.  The area was dilapidated and more recently an expat with a vision led the redevelopment of the area to its current state – that of atmospheric markets  that keeps the charm and purpose of past eras and combines it with a new audience of tourists and locals alike.

The Old Souk

The shops seem to be just opening up for the day as we enter The Old Souk.  Vendors are setting up their wares and waiters are busily setting out tables and chairs in the cafes and restaurants that line the narrow cobbled streets.  It is not very big but it is lovely.  The old stone buildings with their heavy wooden doors and Arabic style, the patterned pathways, hanging lanterns and bougainvillea growing all over.

The Citadel

We weave in and out for a little bit, enjoying the atmosphere.  Before long the souks open onto a square and there is a small ticket booth.  I look up to behold the Byblos Citadel.  The Citadel is a 12th Century castle build by the Crusaders from limestone on the remains of older Roman structures.  In fact, the whole Byblos archaeological site is made up of literally, many layers of civilisation.

The Othman Al-Houssami House, a 19th Century structure which sits high on the site overlooking the Mediterranean below, is evidence of just how deep the excavations go.  In fact, artifacts from the site have enabled historians to date settlements here back to around 8,800 BC during Ancient Neolithic times although it became more populated as time marched on.  The Neolithic and Chalcolithic levels of excavation have been split into sub eras (Ancient and Late Phase Ancient Neolithic, Middle Neolithic, Late Neolithic followed by Ancient and Late Chalcolithic).  These take findings from the sites and settlements and date them through to around 3,100  BC.  The locals at the time were the Canaanites (also known as Phoenicians by the Greeks).

During their time there were a lot of occupations including Amorites, Egyptians, and the Hittites.  Then came the Iron Age, the age of the Phoenician expansions launched by Tyre & Sidon.  During this time, the area was occupied by the Assyrians from 900 BC, the Babylonians from around 580 – 540 BC, followed by the Persian period (from 538 BC).  The Greek Hellenistic times followed (from 330 BC to 64 BC) and then the Roman period began in 64 BC.

The Ottomans

There was a period of Arab influence and occupation lasting from 635 AD through to the 12th Century. During this time, Byblos was part of Tripoli, a Crusader state during the Mamluk period (13th century) and through until the beginning of the Ottoman Empire in 1516.  This lasted all the way through until 1918.  Lebanon fell under French Mandate from 1920 through until it gained independence in 1943.  I’m no expert but that sounds like a whole lot of history wrapped up in a very small area.  Hence, the layers.

For example, sometime during the 19th century BC, the Obelisks Temple was built on the ruins of the earlier (circa 3rd millennium BC) Bronze Age “L-Shaped” Temple of Resheph.  The obelisks were moved to an adjacent site in order for archaeologists to excavate the L-Shaped Temple.

Much is known about ancient Byblos due to the discovery of the royal necropolis (cemetery). This consisted of tomb monuments and the famous Ahiram sarcophagus (which is now housed at the National Museum of Beirut).  Indeed, it wasn’t just the royal necropolis, there was a large cemetery and numerous burial sites found here. In addition, some 2,000 jars containing bodies, precious artifacts such as jewelry, ceramics, weapons and figurines, were found here.

Another feature of the site is the Roman Theatre which was built around 218 AD.  It would have originally been somewhat enclosed but now the backdrop is the spectacular Mediterranean. Today it shines in a hundred shades of blue.

Othman Al-Houssami House

Othman Al-Houssami House (seen in the background below) sits high on an unexcavated portion of ground.  It illustrates just how much of the surroundings has been dug out to uncover what we see here today.  Francoise continues, pointing out feature after feature – where rooms would have been, places where columns would have been to hold up roofs or second floors, pits where wells provided water to the settlement and smaller dugouts or large stone carved bowls that may have been used for craft or metalwork.  

There are also stories of kings, nobles, priests and commoners. Their homes, their places of work and worship, pleasure, defense and eventually burial. It is staggering.  Not just because the whole circle of life is represented here. But because it is represented over and over again in exactly the same place, laid out for all to see.  Or at least all who can interpret it.  I am glad it is being explained to me.

Byblos Site Museum

There is also a small but interesting museum on site, the aptly named Byblos Site Museum, which provides insights into the excavations undertaken, the lengths taken to preserve the site and the artifacts uncovered as well as trying to convey the historical significance of both the site and the findings.  Somewhat difficult to process when I’m still pinching myself just at being here!

After a couple of hours we’re done.  I’d love to linger here but I can’t absorb any more facts and it’s getting on in the afternoon.  Despite having vowed last night at dinner whilst being plied with Lebanese hospitality that I wouldn’t be hungry today I’m ready for lunch.

We walk a little way down to the Marina, past bobbing boats and the Byblos Fishing Club, which looks way more inviting than any fishing club has a right to. Lunch is at Dar El Azrak Restaurant (Byblos Sur Mer) which juts out into the sea on a little private bay, just north of the marina and right in front of the Byblos Sur Mer Hotel.

As our fattoush, tabouli, hummus, bread and barbecue is served, I gaze out over the water. My mind wanders to what other places there are that I never dreamed I might see. How many more layers are there to uncover?

Good To Know

Kurban Tours run various tours of Beirut and other Lebanon destinations mentioned here. Ask for Francoise who has a depth of knowledge and an authentic passion for sharing her country’s insights.  This is not just what she does, but is undeniably so much a part of who she is.

Would I Return?

Yes.  I would return but while this was an amazing experience, I would choose to explore new places next time. Tyre, Sidon and Baalbeck are all on my list.  However, the water looked very inviting, I might return for a dip in that blue Mediterranean Sea.

A special thank you to Francoise Hobeika for providing edits in respect of my terrible recollection of historic facts and dates.

Peacock in the souk