More Of Tbilisi

Yesterday my travel companion Diana and I escaped the city to explore the Kakheti Region for the day.  Today, far from being finished with Tbilisi, there is so much yet to explore before Diana’s flight home this afternoon.

We begin the day with the bath that was originally scheduled for last night but was delayed because of the rain and the lengthy alternate route back.  Our aches and pains soothed away, much better for the soak and morning massage, all except our blistered feet.  We grin and bear it as there is still so much more to see.

Setting off from Chreli Abano, we cross the river to the Metheki church, detouring along the way to the little shrines underneath the Statue of King Vakhtan Gorgesali situated along the river.  Despite the rain last night it’s another glorious summer day and given that it’s Sunday morning, services are in full swing.

The singing is divine and although the church is crowded with worshippers and we don’t understand the words, we pause to listen and enjoy the purity of the singing.  Back outside we follow our noses with one of the oldest churches in town behind us, to the newest – the Holy Trinity Cathedral.  Finished in 2004 it stands 87m tall and its gilded roof is visible from almost everywhere in town.

Services are also in full swing here and there are genuine worshippers, tourists and a mix of others which appear somewhat unclear of their purpose. It may be that the grounds also act as a general meeting place, similar to the Spanish Steps in Rome or Trafalgar Square in London.  Once again we pause inside to take it in, mesmerised by the singing/chanting going on in what appears to be the inner sanctum of the church, not visible from where I am standing.

It’s nearing midday and we have been walking for a couple of hours.  Priorities are now finding a bathroom and a coffee, in that order.  We are rejected from a hotel across the road from the church and turn down a laneway.  Somewhat desperate, we push open a metal door labelled Sophia Hotel and find ourselves in a little oasis of a courtyard where the host takes pity on us and allows Diana to use the facilities.  As I wait, a housekeeper comes out with sheets and the two ladies stand and fold the linen together.  I make a mental note for potential future accommodation.  Our grateful offer of payment is refused and we feel the kindness in the moment.

Next priority is coffee and it’s not far away from the Sophia Hotel that we find the perfect spot.  As it’s so hot we opt for an iced latte and admire the notes and drawings on the walls from visitors all over the world.  After recaffination, we have 2 hours before we need to be back a the hotel for Diana’s airport transfer (booked with Sergo, now our trusty tour guide).  Di decides she would like to tick the funicular off her list before she goes.  Google tells us this is a 2.6km, 35 minute walk but we guesstimate we can be a little quicker, subject to not getting lost!  We take off, making our way back towards the river past the Palace which is actually the Georgian seat of Parliament.  We walk through the underpass that leads over the water which has some wonderful street art paintings and we get distracted back out on the street with some great art being sold.  We pick up a great painting each as gifts for our respective hubbies  and make our way uphill and towards the funicular.

Given the gradient of the streets around here and factoring in the stop for art purchases, perhaps Google wasn’t too far off in the time estimate afterall.

In fact, by the time we purchase our ticket and wait in line for the funicular, it’s more like an hour before we are actually standing at the tip of Mtatsminda Park looking down on the Holy Trinity Cathedral that we feel somewhat like we have just run a marathon.

We grab some drinks and while we’re sorely tempted to walk around the prak, we take heed of the dark skies closing in over the tv tower and decide to travel back down before the queues become a panicked rush when the rain hits.  Back out the bottom of the funicular we decide to make a run for it, foolishly ignoring the line of taxis waiting out the front.  We make it about halfway back to the hotel before the skies open and before long we are soaked to the skin.  It’s kind of fun, we don’t see rain like this in Dubai more than a handful of times a year, but perhaps would have better been avoided.  Di now has to pack wet jeans in her suitcase and wear wet shoes onto the plane.

We both change out of our wet clothes and Di pack the rest of her things.  Sergo is back right on time for the airport transfer and I run out into the rain to simultaneously say hi to Sergo and goodbye to Diana.  Then I return to the dry for some downtime – a cup of tea with my sore feet up for an hour or so.  Before too long I realise that the rain has cleared and the sun is out again.  As tempting as it is to rest a while longer, it’s time to hit the museums.  They’re closed tomorrow (Monday) and I don’t want to miss a thing!

Would I Return

Yes.  Every twist and turn brings new delights and Sophia Hotel looks worth checking out – for the friendly reception, very cute courtyard and location very, very close to the Holy Trinity Cathedral.