Cesky Krumlov Dreaming. If there was ever a place where it’s possible to find yourself in a fairy tale, this MUST be it.
We left Karlovy Vary this morning, headed for Cesky Krumlov. I have heard of its beauty and charm previously but nothing has quite prepared me for what we encounter. Still, this story begins before that and I should begin at the beginning. Although the distances are shorter here than some road trips we may be used to, the roads are very narrow and windy. Plus, the Czech drivers are all insane (in the nicest possible way!). Jason did a good job driving on the right (read: our wrong) side of the road. That said, I admit to being on the edge of my seat the whole time, not in a good way. We had stopped off at the State Chateau of Hluboká along the way. And so we arrive in Cesky Krumlov in the early evening after some serious Old Town navigational problems.
The early evening light bathes the old town and despite the navigation problems getting here, I am completely enchanted. Furthermore I am convinced that if I had arrived by horse & carriage (as seems only right and proper in my own personal fantasy), then the navigational issues involving one way streets would never have eventuated.
Cesky Krumlov Dreaming
This tiny village, cradled in the arms of the Vltava river and centered around the elegant inner (old) town square is completely, well, enchanting. The vinitini mestro (inner town) is lined with restored heritage Renaissance and Baroque buildings housing boutique hotels, riverside cafes, cosy bars and classy restaurants. The whole scene radiates fairly tale perfection, so much so that I almost expect a chorus of song to erupt as I meander through the streets. Only Nam. Svornosti, the town square, puts a slight dampener on the mood. In the grey light I wander over to the ornate fountain and column (part of the fountain) and find out it’s a memorial of the plague. It’s possibly the only unromantic thing about the whole scene. I briefly wonder how to incorporate it into my fairytale theme song but I can’t make it rhyme with anything so I abandon the thought.
This town is crazy beautiful. It has something even more magical, more dreamlike than the rest of this crazy beautiful country. It is also a supremely picturesque town and I think my favorite in the Czech Republic to date. After checking in at our accommodation, Jason & I stroll along and find somewhere for dinner by the river. Then afterwards, we explore the quiet streets by lamplight, soaking in the atmosphere and some ‘pinch me’ moments.
Cesky Krumlov just has something really special, it’s magical and majestic yet on a grander, more impressive scale. But perhaps some background is required to properly appreciate the current state.
Český Krumlov History
Český Krumlov is one of the most picturesque and well-preserved medieval towns in Central Europe. Nestled in a curve of the Vltava River, the whole town is UNESCO World Heritage-listed. Known for its charming cobblestone streets, colorful Renaissance and Baroque architecture, and its magnificent castle complex, dominating the skyline.
The town’s history dates back to the 13th century, when the Vítkovci family founded it as a trade and administrative center. Over the centuries, Český Krumlov came under the influence of powerful noble families, including the Rosenbergs, the Eggenbergs, and the Schwarzenbergs, whose legacies are reflected in the town’s architecture and cultural heritage.
Its preservation is largely due to peace and luck. Cesky Krumlov was never a major political or economic hub. It was largely preserved during the Second World War as it was declared part of German-Austria. Transferred back to Czechoslovakia after WWII, the majority German population were expelled. It has been restored from Communist era disrepair into a popular tourist destination.
Old Town
The Old Town of Český Krumlov is a delightful, though only tiny, maze of narrow, winding streets lined with well-preserved medieval and Renaissance buildings. The town square (Náměstí Svornosti) serves as the heart of the Old Town, surrounded by colorful merchant houses with intricate façades. Cafés, shops, and art galleries fill the charming side streets, making it easy to lose yourself in the town’s romantic atmosphere. The medieval layout of the town has remained almost unchanged for centuries, creating a sense of stepping back in time.
Latrán District
This historic district lies at the foot of the castle and is known for its well-preserved medieval houses and artisan workshops. Latrán retains much of its original medieval character, with colorful facades, wooden balconies, and arched passageways. Visitors can find hidden courtyards, traditional Czech restaurants, and craft shops specializing in handmade goods.
St. Vitus Church
The Church of St. Vitus, built in the 14th century, stands as a striking example of Gothic architecture. Its tall spire rises above the town’s rooftops, while the interior features stunning vaulted ceilings, Gothic frescoes, and an impressive Baroque organ. The church holds the tombs of several members of the Rosenberg family, reinforcing its importance as a center of religious and social life.
Eggenberg Brewery (Pivovar Eggenberg)
There has been a brewery in Cesky Krumlov since the 14th Century, however the Eggenberg Brewery didn’t exist until later. The brewery was inherited from the House of Rosenberg. When the Rosenberg lineage died out in 1611, the brewery and castle were included in the dominion given to the Eggenbergs. Unfortunately the same thing happened and in 1717 possession passed to the House of Schwarzenberg. Although the brewery was modernised by the Schwarzenbergs, it retained the previous name. In 1940 the brewery was seized and never returned to its rightful owner having been caught up in disputes and a special law passed to ensure he was deprived of his property rights without “justification, explanation or compensation” (Wikipedia).
Good To Know
The castle is the main thing to ‘do’ in town but that shouldn’t dissuade from visiting. If you’re happy soaking up the atmosphere in a stunning location then Cesky Krumlov is for you.
Update: Note that the brewery was closed down in 2014.
Would I Return?
Yes.
