After a lovely breakfast at the Louvre Cafe this morning, Jason had organised a birthday surprise for me. Jan has kindly lent us his car. All I am told is that I am being whisked off into the country for a few nights.
Once we are outside of Prague the roads narrow and the countryside is lush and green. Jason spills the surprise – a trip to Karlovy Vary, a local spa town in the mountains. Karlovy Vary (Karlsbad) is located in the west Bohemia region and its numerous thermal springs as well as its proximity to Germany have made it a popular resort town since the 19th century.
A Birthday Surprise
The real surprise is pulling up at the Grandhotel Pupp. This is the spa town’s first hotel established in 1701 and still continuing its 5 star traditions to this day. We have a 2 night package which includes champagne on arrival and so we do not hesitate to begin my 30th birthday celebrations a little early in the day. Afterall, it is just us here to enjoy it. In truth I am thrilled to be staying at this majestic hotel, so beautiful and steeped in history. I feel truly spoiled.
With celebratory drink complete we head out to get a bite to eat, sitting overlooking the Teplá River and admiring the hotel’s facade. Then we walk in order to discover the riverside spa district with its colonnaded and columned walkways, beautiful parks and pretty streets.
Exploring Karlovy Vary
Or route starts out at the Café Elefant along the Stará Louka adjacent to the river. The pedestrian street’s elegant cafes are bustling with holiday makers relaxing and recharging with coffee and cakes. They sit under the shaded summer outdoor settings decorated with abundant floral arrangements.
From here we cross the river and walk past Karlovy Vary’s Town Theatre, a magnificent neo Baroque building, built at the Theatre Square between 1884 and 1886. On the other side of the square, on Divadelní námesti, is the Art Nouveau Spořitelna (Savings Bank) building.
The Hot Spring Colonnade
Just past this we come to the Vřídelní kolonáda, the Hot Spring Colonnade which dominates the middle of the river. The modern glazed and reinforced concrete facade in the functionalist style is a stark contrast to the older buildings of the town.
The colonnade structures were originally built so that people could enjoy the benefits of the medicinal waters at their source. Temporary structures around the springs were designed to allow this, even during bad weather. It was also important that they could be rebuilt easily. This was necessary as the springs periodically got blocked and could explode, ruining the structure. Sometimes the spring would disappear after an eruption or it would appear in another place. However, as the popularity of the town and its health spas increased, the temporary structures were no longer sufficient to support the constant influx of tourists.
A permanent cast iron structure was built in 1878-1879. However, eventually that building corroded and it was dismantled in 1939. In 1940 a wooden structure was built which remained until the town replaced it with the current version.
Inside the building the Vřídla geyser sprays up to a height of 12 meters. The glass prism dome above the Vřídlo spring is by sculptor Jan Fišer. It represents a symbol of the beating heart of the spa town. In the spacious promenade hall of the colonnade there are five other springs and catchments. The spring water cools to between 30 and 50 °C for drinking. The hall has many stalls selling souvenirs and an exhibition floor. Jason keeps me laughing as the spring ‘springs’ from his head.
The Market and Mill Colonnades
Leaving the Hot Spring Colonnade we walk along Tržiště to the Market Colonnade. According to legend, Emperor Charles IV discovered the springs by chance. A dog from one of the hunting party fell into the spring by accident. Later the Emperor used the natural spring waters to heal his diseased limbs. Today the Market Colonnade houses three mineral springs: Charles IV Spring, Dolní zámecký (Lower Castle) spring and Tržní (Market) spring. The Market Colonnade is a Swiss style wooden structure complete with decorative carvings. Built in 1883 as a temporary structure, it has been preserved.
We turn and walk along Lázeňská to the Mill Colonnade, a pseudo Renaissance stone colonnade (built 1871 – 1881). This is the largest of the town’s colonnades which covers five mineral springs: Mlýnský spring; Rusalka spring; Prince Václav’s spring; Libuše spring; and Skalní spring.
Other Sites
Another lovely place to visit is Smetanova Gardens. The garden, named after a famous Czech composer, is nestled behind the Alžbětiny lázně (Elizabeth spa) a pseudo-baroque building. Look for the fountain with a nude girl (by Břetislav Benda, 1963), the alley of linden trees and the flower calendar. The benches lining the park invite us to sit and rest for a moment.
An Elegant Dinner
After our long exploratory walk we return to the hotel and dress for dinner. When our meals arrive we receive our dishes at the same time. There one waiter each. They then simultaneously wisk the silver domes off to reveal our delicious meals underneath.
I feel very special indeed on this very special occasion.
Would I Return?
Yes. We had a lovely time journeying to and exploring this beautiful town and its springs. The surrounding towns that we passed by were all very cute with castles and chateaus sitting prettily up on cliffs above rivers. The Czech countryside is rather charming. The landscape is achingly green and dotted with church steeples and terracotta tile roofs. It was also very special to have stayed in the Grandhotel Pupp. And to have had such a very swish birthday dinner.
2 Replies to “Grandhotel Pupp”