After a bit of a lazy start this morning we head out to explore some more castles and spa towns in the West Bohemian area of the Czech Republic. We have Loket nad Ohří and Mariánské Lázně in our sights.
Loket nad Ohří
Surrounded by a loop of the river Ohří, this tiny town almost becomes an island. It is unbearably beautiful and has a practical side too, being famous for the manufacture of porcelain. Loket nad Ohří has a fantastic castle with a very interesting torture chamber and breathtaking views over the town and surrounding countryside.
This is a Medieval town, founded around the 12th Century. The Gothic castle, built on the site of an earlier Romanesque fort, dates from the 14th Century. Only the tall square tower and fragments of a rotunda remain of the fort. In 1725 the castle burned down with only the ground floor remaining. It was proposed to be used as the town prison in 1788. However, the reconstruction works only completed in 1822 where it served this purpose through until 1947. In the 1970’s the town itself funded extensive restorations to make the castle what it is today1.
After a stroll around I am completely charmed. We stop for lunch on the terrace at the neo-Gothic Hotel Bily Kun (White Horse Inn) where Goethe used to stay, overlooking the river.
Other sites here include an early-baroque era town hall, the bookbinding museum, a ceramics showroom, the Black Gate Tower and St Anne Chapel. Don’t miss the red and white 18th Century church of St Wenceslas on the road to the castle.
Mariánské Lázně
Mariánské Lázně, like Karlovy Vary, is another hot springs town, known for its mineral springs providing curative baths and drinks.
Although the wellness aspect provides a steady summer influx of old German tourists there is more to Mariánské Lázně than just its waters. Aside from the spas, this town offers enough other attractions to warrant more than a day trip. Think pretty parks, lazy walking trails with breathtaking views and stunning architecture plus an array of good restaurants and cozy bars.
We park off Ruská and walk around the southern end of the Municipal Park. Then through the park we approach the Colonnade from the side with the ‘Singing Fountain’. The restored cast iron structure of the Colonnade is a vision of neo-baroque grandeur and serves as a backdrop for concerts during the summer as well as innumerable tourist photos. This is the main building which houses the Cross Spring, the town’s primary spring. Plastic cups are on sale to test the waters as well as innumerable porcelain mug souvenirs. The water is very salty. It is used to treat digestive disorders, with the water having a laxative effect.
The ‘Singing Fountain’ nearby dances to recorded classical music every couple of hours.
Around Town
After enjoying the park and exploring the Cross Springs we take a walk up the hill along Lesni to the cable car station. From the top of the cable car, the trail leads us past the old stone watchtower. There are sweeping forest views along the way. In winter time there is skiing here. There isn’t any snow at this time of year, but there are still some wonderful walking trails. We get a sneak peek of the picturesque 7km round trip (if you are up for it).
Park Boheminium is also near here. A world of 1:25 scale miniatures of Czech monuments including Karlštejn Castle and the Český Krumlov Château. These are dotted all around the acres of parkland so if you do visit, make sure you have a few hours set aside to wander around.
Today, we continue down the trail past the watch tower, coming back out near the New Baths. Here, several mineral baths, steam rooms and other wellness offerings are available. I would love to go in but instead we take a left down Anglika, turning north again past the post office which brings us back to the Municipal Park.
Unfortunately we have run out of time. We head back to the car for the drive back to Karlovy Vary where we crack a Becherovka. Becherovka is a bitter herb liqueur, famous in the town for its digestive qualities. It also has the rather lovely side effect of making you feel warm and happy. I quite like the bitterness and herby flavor, Jason prefers to stick to an ale or two. Still, a tipple with health benefits. I feel my wellness increasing with each day!
Good To Know
The Singing Fountain ‘dances’ every 2 hours, May to September.
Park Boheminium is one of the most visited attractions in the Karlovy Vary region. The entrance is located near to the top cable car station.
If you have time, take an extra day and explore some of the walking trails in the Slavkov forest. Then, book in for a spa session to ease the tensions away.
Would I Return?
Yes. For the fairytale. For more fairytales, see also Cesky Krumlov and Prague Castle.