Schloß Schwerin

If fairytales were to have a birthplace it must be Schwerin. Even from a distance, just laying eyes on this impossibly beautiful castle makes me feel like a princess. Or at the very least, like the world is full of hope and beauty.

Set on the shores of a picturesque lake, the castle (Schloß or schloss), is in fact surrounded by not just one but at least seven lakes, along with rambling parks and gardens. Just the setting for horse drawn carriage ridges, picnics and chasing butterflies.

The reality may be slightly less peaceful and rather less idealistic.

History

Settlements in the vicinity can be dated to the early 11th Century as Bishop Theitmar Van Marseburg, an important chronicler who recorded the reigns of German kings and Holy Roman Emperors of the Ottonian (Saxon) dynasty, describes in his chronicles, battles against neighboring tribes that took place in 1018.

Schwerin’s official founding dates to 1160, when Henry the Lion, the powerful Guelph Duke of Saxony and Bavaria, captured the castle and granted the settlement its town charter. The town’s seal still bears the inscription Dux Henricus et Sigillum Civitatis Swerin, commemorating his role in its establishment. His conquest followed a battle with the ruling Obotrite (Slavic) prince, Niklot, who fled inland as Henry seized the castle. Niklot was subsequently killed in battle, and Henry appointed a governor to oversee the territory. In a remarkable turn of events, just seven years later, he recognised Niklot’s son as his father’s successor. This alliance helped establish the foundations of what would become the Duchy of Mecklenburg, whose ruling dynasty endured for centuries, linking Schwerin’s origins to both German and Wendish history.

Petermännchen

History also touts the castle as the home of Petermännchen, a small amiable household wight. He roams the hallways and vaults of the palace, the watchman and keeper. He is said to reward the good and honest and punish the wicked, periodically playing tricks and being a nuisance.

Schwerin remains closely associated with the legend of Petermännchen, its mischievous resident ghost, and today serves as the capital of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern and home to the state parliament. It is the smallest of Germany’s 16 state capitals and the only one that is not a major city. Although often described as the oldest city east of the Elbe, much of Schwerin’s present-day character dates from the early eighteenth century. Six devastating fires between 1531 and 1697 repeatedly ravaged the medieval town, destroying large parts of its historic centre. The city we see today is therefore, in many ways, a product of centuries of rebuilding and renewal.

A Castle Experience

Preserved for viewing are the most important historical rooms of the castle. Of the original 42 rooms used by royalty, the Palace Museum is made up of 28 that have been preserved and restored. Rooms include: the Pillar Room; the Legend Room; the Blücher Room; the Leander Room; the Dining Room; the Red Audience Room; the Tea Room; the Parlour; Winter Room; Reception Room; Library; Billiard Room; Smoking Room; Ancestral Portrait Gallery; and the castle’s showpiece, the Throne Room.

The Leander Room

This round tower room, with a clear reference to antiquity, has the character of an impressive Tempietto (small temple). The Italian style carries through from architecture to decoration (and namesake) and is clear in the painted marble and murals, while the subjects of the paintings make reference to animals and the surrounding countryside, including hunting and stock farming of the local area.

The Dining Room

The sumptuous woodwork in their room lends to it an elegant yet eye catching quality. Canadian bird’s eye maple makes up the wall paneling while the parquet floor is crafted from mahogany, oak and ash. Although originally designated as a dining room, Friedrich Franz III used it as his study.

The stunning glass window is a 19th Century reproduction of a late medieval model depicting St Catherine’s engagement to Jesus as a child. The fabulous vases were produced at the St Petersburg Imperial Porcelain Factory and were likely a gift from Tsar Nikola’s to the Grand Duchess Alexandrine, his sister in law.

The Parlour

The Parlour, with its oak wall panelling has its warmth offset by the startling blue half damask silk coverings on the upper sections. The woodwork is exquisite, as is the silk.

The Ancestral Portrait Gallery

Peering down at us in the entrance hall to the throne room are an imposing line up of regal ancestors. Seemingly designed to intimidate, the gallery displays 31 portraits which compile the Mecklenburg-Schwerin line of succession from 1348. The room decoration of gilded cast zinc pillars and more wonderfully patterned parquet flooring complement the display.

The Throne Hall

The decoration of the magnificent throne room is relatively new. Dating to circa 1750, the original throne canopy and seat remain while the other decorations were completed between 1856 and 1858. These include Carrara marble pillars, guilded cast iron doors, paintings and more parquet flooring.

After the castle rooms there are some small display rooms as part of the museum. These contain some interesting artifacts, however, we don’t linger. Passing through quickly, we are keen to get out and look at the grounds and the town beyond.

The focal point of the palace gardens is its intersecting canals, laid out by French architect Jean Legeay between 1748 – 1756. In 2009, the National Garden Festival celebrations inspired the addition of the more modern ‘floating meadows’.

The glass and iron Orangerie structure was a mid 19th century addition linking the palace to the lake with colonnades, roof terraces and flower beds in full fairytale bloom.

Good To Know

The castle also contains a church and is the headquarters of the state parliament. Active parliamentary duties and resident offices means that some of the building is unaccessible to the public.

Would I Return?

Yes. Fairytales are made here, or at least, they could be.

Castle signage has largely informed the room descriptions contained in this post.