A Taste Of St. Petersburg

After a full day exploring Peterhof and the Catherine Palace at Pushkin, I’m ready to discover St Petersburg itself. We’ve seen the imperial splendour beyond the city, and now it’s time to explore its historic heart.

After dropping the rest of our tour group back at the port, Mum and I are taken to Primorskaya metro station. Here, we’re handed over to another guide for our evening excursion. We jump aboard the metro and emerge at Gostiny Dvor, stepping straight onto Nevsky Prospect. Finally, we’re really here!

Discovering Nevsky Prospect

We wander along Nevsky Prospect, taking in the sights and sounds of the city. Nevsky Prospect! Even the name sounds so foreign, so exotic. This is St Petersburg’s famous main thoroughfare, stretching for more than four kilometres through the heart of the city.

Peter the Great’s vision for his new capital included a grand route connecting the Admiralty with the Alexander Nevsky Monastery. The road was laid out in the 1710s and gradually developed into the city’s principal avenue. Today, it remains the centre of St Petersburg’s cultural, commercial and social life.

It’s still reasonably early, but the shadows are growing long. The evening light has a wonderful intensity against the crisp northern air. Our guide points out Gostiny Dvor, the enormous historic shopping arcade among the bustle of Nevsky Prospect.

This impressive building dates from the 18th century, with construction taking place over several decades. Its name translates roughly as ‘merchant’s court’ or ‘trading yard’. It was once a centre of commerce where merchants sold goods from across Russia and beyond. Today, its long classical facade houses an array of shops, including some rather luxurious brands. Best not to wander too close!

Across the street, we discover another grand emporium, this time offering rather more indulgent delights. Inside, the handmade chocolates are beautifully presented. Tiny fruit-shaped marzipans catch my eye, each one delicately crafted and almost too pretty to eat. I could happily spend some time here!

Bridges, Palaces and a Sweet Afternoon Tea

Back outside, we continue towards Anichkov Bridge, one of the most recognisable landmarks along Nevsky Prospect. The bridge crosses the Fontanka River and is famous for its four dramatic bronze horse sculptures.

The first bridge here was built in 1715 under Peter the Great. It has been rebuilt several times, eventually taking on its present stone form in the late 18th and 19th centuries. The magnificent horse sculptures, known as The Taming of the Horse, were created by sculptor Peter Klodt and installed between 1849 and 1850. Each group captures a different moment in the struggle between man and horse.

We pause to admire the sculptures and the view along the Fontanka before doubling back along Nevsky Prospect. We pass Anichkov Palace and continue towards Ostrovsky Square. Here, a grand monument to Catherine the Great stands before the magnificent Alexandrinsky Theatre, which opened in 1832. It’s another beautiful corner of this historic city, and we stop for photographs despite the fading light.

We continue strolling, enjoying the architecture and the atmosphere of the streets. The crisp evening air is refreshing, but we’re ready for a little rest. We suggest stopping for coffee, and our guide leads us away from the main avenue to a small café on a side street.

The selection of pastries is irresistible. Mum and I choose a raspberry Danish to share and invite our guide to order something too. Somewhere along the way, something gets lost in translation. When the food arrives, we discover we’ve been served a giant pastry each! There are no complaints from me. I’m in raspberry heaven.

The Rostral Columns

Refreshed, we return to the metro and travel a couple of stops to Vasileostrovskaya station. From here, we walk for around twenty minutes towards the famous Rostral Columns on the Spit of Vasilievsky Island.

In hindsight, a map would have helped. I would probably have chosen to walk along Nevsky Prospect and cross the Palace Bridge, passing the Winter Palace along the way. Our guide is lovely, but she is young and less experienced than Maria, our incredibly knowledgeable guide earlier in the day. Her English is halting, and she struggles to understand some of our questions. Her recommendations also feel a little less considered.

Nevertheless, we eventually emerge beside the River Neva, where the Rostral Columns and the magnificent Old Stock Exchange building dominate the waterfront.

The two Rostral Columns are among St Petersburg’s most recognisable landmarks. Built between 1805 and 1810, they were designed by French architect Jean-François Thomas de Thomon. Their distinctive decorations feature ship prows, or rostra, symbolising Russia’s naval strength. They originally served as navigational beacons for the busy commercial port. Their great flaming torches are now lit on special occasions.

The Old Stock Exchange, with its impressive classical columns, completes the grand architectural ensemble. Together, these buildings reflect St Petersburg’s ambitions as a major European trading port.

The Neva River

The Neva River flows from Lake Ladoga through western Russia and the heart of St Petersburg before emptying into the Gulf of Finland. I try to imagine it frozen in winter, with people wrapped in furs making their way across the snow-covered embankments. Even now, the brisk wind whips across the water. Across the river, the Winter Palace shines in the fading light.

It’s a magnificent view, and I could happily stand here for much longer.

By now, it’s after 8pm. We’ve been sightseeing since 9am, and our additional tour time has come to an end. Under the visa arrangements for our visit, our guide must accompany us back to St Petersburg’s cruise port. She kindly arranges a taxi, and half an hour later we’re saying our goodbyes and thank yous. I manage a blagodaryu vas (thank you) before we pass through customs and return to the ship.

Back on board, we head to the restaurant and enjoy a glass or two of Californian Zinfandel. With views towards Vasilievsky Island from the window, we reflect on the day’s discoveries and look forward to whatever tomorrow might bring.

Good To Know

At the time of our visit, cruise passengers could use a special visa-free arrangement for stays of up to 72 hours. This required booking an approved excursion through an authorised tour operator. The operator arranged the necessary documentation, often including the relevant visa-free travel arrangements within the tour price. Always check the conditions carefully, as requirements can change. Russia’s current entry and visa rules may differ considerably from those we experienced.

Would I Return?

Absolutely. St Petersburg is a fascinating city, rich in history, architecture and culture. Our extra evening tour gave us a wonderful introduction to Nevsky Prospect, its historic bridges and the beautiful Neva waterfront.

However, I’d recommend being very specific when arranging any additional or optional sightseeing time. If there’s something particular you want to see, make sure the itinerary includes it. Our evening guide was lovely, but the experience would have been even better with a more knowledgeable guide and a little more time to explore independently.