Walking Tirana

Arrival

We arrive in Tirana as the sun is setting behind the Sheshi Karl Topia not far from our hotel Albanopolis on the Rruga Mine Piza. It’s located just inside the ring road that distinguishes the old town centre and I’m keen to go walking.

It’s later than we had hoped after a full day of travel from Sarande, stopping at the Apollonia archeological site just outside Durres on the way.

Tirana is a city known for its colorful mix of Ottoman, Facist and Soviet era architecture and this neighborhood seems to have an abundance of Soviet era apartment blocks as we head out onto the streets to find something to eat.

Finally out walking Tirana, we find Çiki Tirana’s gyros. It’s location just next to our hotel catches the boys’ eye and, too late to go searching for something else, we order and take a seat outside. Actually, the gyros are surprisingly good.

After dinner we manage a walk for a quick look first look at Skanderbeg Square where we return later on to explore more.

Skanderbeg Square

Skanderbeg Square, named after Albania’s national hero, George Castriot (also known as Skanderbeg), is really the heart of Tirana. One of the most prominent and important landmarks in the city, it serves as a central meeting point and gathering space for locals and tourists alike. At night, the square is lined with restaurants and bars and during the day it is endlessly crisscrossed by people going through and to here.

Skanderbeg Square was known as the “Circus” during the Ottoman period, serving as a marketplace and venue for public events. During the Italian occupation of the early 20th century, it was redesigned in the Italian rationalist style and renamed, unsurprisingly, Piazza Italia. Following the fall of communism in the early 1990’s a further transformation resulted in its current design.

Today’s modern Skanderbeg Square is characterised by its large open space, pedestrian friendly design and the numerous cultural and historical elements that it embraces. Surrounded by the National Historical Museum, the Opera and Ballet Theatre, the Et’hem Bey Mosque, the Clock Tower and Tirana’s Palace of Culture, it is a striking space that reflects Albania’s historical and cultural significance.

One of the most striking features is the Skanderbeg Statue. This a bronze equestrian monument depicting George Castriot on horseback stands tall in the center of the square and serves as a symbol of Albanian national identity and resistance against foreign invaders.

The Capital Buildings

The Capital Buildings that are set around and along Skanderbeg Square are a continued reminder of Albania’s political journey and Tirana’s importance as its democratic capital. Emerging from its communist past, Tirana continues its dynamic political revolution with the capital reflecting the country’s determination to foster transparency, inclusivity, and progress.

The administrative centre is evident when walking Tirana. Key government institutions and decision-making bodies line the city’s main road, the Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit (Boulevard of the Martyrs of the Nation). Although the city boasts a rich political history that dates back to ancient times with influences from the Ottoman Empire, the communist era has left indelible marks on its architecture, people and urban fabric. The iconic Skanderbeg Square and the less well known Lulishte Ismail Qemali Park being just two examples of this. Their modern transformations reshape, rather than hide the past and are as much a political statement, as architectural or cultural ones. The Capital buildings including ministries and Tirana’s City Hall, are reminders of the nation’s past struggles and victories and a reinforcement of the modern city as a symbol of national unity.

The city’s urban development, its increasing international presence and its people’s devotion to inclusive policies, contribute to Tirana’s status as a vibrant political hub. As Tirana continues its evolution, it will remain a symbol of Albania’s commitment to democracy and a driving force for positive change.

Reja – The Cloud

More positive change can be found in Reja (the Cloud), a modern art installation by Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto. We stumble upon the structure, made of white steel rods in front of the National Gallery of Arts. From afar it resembles a soft, floating cloud. Up close it’s a jumble of open boxes, like a jungle gym, although too small to climb through.

Designed to look like a cloud of mist rising in the park, it’s quiet this early on a Sunday morning. However, it is a popular meeting place for locals during the day and is even used as a location for open air cinema in the summer months. It’s not quite summer yet and we’re not meeting anyone here today. So after we climb to to the top, we continue on our way.

Parliament Offices

A little further along the Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit (Boulevard of the Martyrs of the Nation) whilst we’re walking Tirana is the city’s Parliamentary offices. Also known as Parliament House, this important architectural landmark serves as Albania’s hub for Paliament meetings and activities.

Construction of the Parliament building was undertaken during Enver Hoxha’s communist regime. The architectural elements reflects a neoclassical design and its grand scale gives an imposing presence in the cityscape.

Today it serves as the work place for the elected parliament, administrative and support staff. It houses offices, meeting rooms and a parliamentary chamber all set around a large, central courtyard.

The building stands as an important symbol of Albania’s democratic system and the functioning of its government. It represents the country’s commitment to democratic governance, the rule of law, and the accountability of its elected representatives. An important element of Albania’s present when set against its past.

Lulishte Ismail Qemali

Lulishte Ismail Qemali Park is located in the heart of Tirana, along Bulevardi Dëshmorët e Kombit. It holds great significance as a historical landmark and a vibrant public space. Over the years, this park has witnessed numerous transformations. These are also reflective of the city’s journey from its communist past to its present-day openness and sense of freedom.

The park was initially established in the late 1930s during the reign of King Zog I (1895 – 1961). At that time, it served as a recreational area for the royal family and the Albanian elite. However, following the communist regime’s rise to power after World War II, the park underwent significant changes. The communists renamed it the “Park of the Martyrs” to commemorate fallen Partisan fighters and constructed a massive mausoleum to honor their sacrifice.

During the communist era, Lulishte Ismail Qemali Park became a symbol of the regime’s ideology and propaganda. The grand mausoleum housed the remains of partisan heroes. The park was adorned with sculptures, statues, and murals depicting communist leaders and revolutionary figures. It became a place of mandatory celebrations and gatherings, where citizens were expected to pay homage to the regime. This served as a tool for cultivating loyalty and fostering a sense of unity among the people.

Following the collapse of communism in 1991, Albania experienced a period of political and social transition. As the country embraced democratic principles and opened itself to the global community, the park also underwent a transformative phase. It was renamed after Ismail Qemali, the leader of the Albanian national movement. He was also the country’s first head of state. The change symbolizing the shift towards a more inclusive and progressive era.

Good To Know

Today, we enjoy freedom and sunshine whilst walking Tirana. Skanderbeg Square and the city’s historic buildings nod to the city’s history and culture. After our morning of discovery, it is evident that so many of the city’s buildings and monuments also stand as a testament to and symbol of Tirana’s evolving identity. The redesigned and reimagined public buildings and spaces incorporate greenery, art and recreational facilities. These cater to the needs and aspirations of the modern city’s residents and visitors.

Today, Tirana is transformed into a cherished urban oasis. It stands as a testament to the resilience and adaptability of Tirana and its people. This small park reflects a wider evolution of the city and her people. Plus, even on this quiet Sunday morning after walking Tirana, it offers respite from the urban bustle. Tirana is a wonderful city to walk. As we pause in the park for a play, there is a chance for reflection and (perhaps most importantly), coffee.

Albania is full of surprises. We have discovered history in the in the unique UNESCO World Heritage city of Berat, culture at the Monastery of Ardenica and the outdoors whilst Osumi River Rafting. Now, out walking Tirana, there are even more layers to uncover of this fascinating country.

Would I Return?

Yes. There is much more to see and walking Tirana is a great way to go about it.