A short drive through the countryside from Berat, after a morning at Berat Castle and the Onunfri Museum, and we come to the tiny village of Roshnik where the Alpeta Winery makes a big impression.
Wine Tasting
We’re here for wine tasting, a tour of the Vineyard and a hearty lunch sourced from local produce. Much of the produce comes from either the Alpeta land or the surrounding farms. Shown promptly to our table on the covered deck with sweeping views of the surrounds, it appears that the locals are already well into their long Saturday lunch. The boys are already hungry and the tempting smells from the kitchen mean that we opt to start with lunch and winetasting. The tour will have to wait until the boys are satiated. Not an overly burdensome request given that our first glasses is poured within minutes.
This first wine, an Alpeta Pulëz, is has a deep gold color like straw from the local fields and is aromatic on the nose. Pulëz is an old Albanian grape variety. It is also known locally as verdhëza or landari, and refined over centuries by Albanian farmers. The grape itself is reasonably hardy, growing in a varied climate and vines that are not fussy with pruning. The wine is served chilled, it takes a little fruity but certainly not sweet and it accompanies the olives and homemade pispili nicely. Served with tarator (an Albanian version of tzatziki), this traditional Albanian pie comes in many different versions. Usually made with some combination of flour, onion, spinach or leek, today we are able to try two side by side.
For the boys, they have discovered tropical flavored Fanta, and are delighted that their choice is available here.
Next is a Triandafil. This rosé combines three varietals of grape: merlot, muscat hamburg (black muscat) and winter grape. While I have never heard of the latter two, it has a decent nose and is again nicely chilled. It also goes well with the next offerings of cornbread spinach pie, sheep’s feta, and Fërgesë. Fërgesë is a dish made with tomatoes, roasted red peppers, feta and yoghurt. There is also delicious homemade bread and homemade butter!
A Hearty Lunch
The second pispili is made with cornbread and, in this case, spinach. The thickness of the cornbread varies from place to place with this one being quite thick and heavy although also very tasty.
Once the meat dishes of roast beef and pork (with accompanying salad) is brought to the table, we progressed to an excellent Merlot Cabernet. Although Merlot is not usually my choice of varietal, this combination bolsters the flavors of both the red and white meats. The wine one is produced using traditional methods and the Cabernet lends the wine some body and aroma that a Merlot by itself would lack. A second red is served but both Jason and I return to the Merlot Cabernet blend for another round.
Tour
Once we have finished our excellent lunch, the host, the owner appears. Ready now to stretch our legs we hear how the vineyard also produces raki, the local spirit. Still using the traditional methods, the raki is produced primarily from grapes that are not of a high enough quality to make wine. Local farmers with smaller crops sometimes hire the distillery to produce their own raki. Sometimes Alpeta will buy additional grapes to supplement its production of the three different types of raki produced here.
Next, we walk across the road to the main house, under which the seller is located. Hundreds of bottles awaiting labeling sit, alongside empty bottles awaiting the summer productions. There are also rows of past seasons produce sitting proudly in bottles. Large vats and casks sit alongside each other in the next room. This is clearly a labor of love and something that the family is very proud of. As the family’s story of the vineyard unfurls it’s clear that this is not only where the magic happens, it is the family who brings their magic together with the ingredients and then bottles it at the right time of year.
A Raki Flight
Once we have finished our tour, our host takes us back to the now much quieter restaurant, post the lunch rush. More platters await us – feta and olives, as well as fresh and dried fruit. We are now taking on a raki flight.
The first raki is the house Raki Rishi. This is potent stuff! But it would be rude not to and we willingly oblige our gracious host as he toasts to family, children, health and happiness. Such is his charisma that he weaves in tails of his children studying abroad, his wife (who has cooked and prepared all the dishes today). He tells of his pride in his country and the business he has learned from his parents. Despite all the hard work the farm and land require, perhaps in spite of it, he is grateful and proud.
He encourages our oldest to a toast after joking around with him. I’m glad it doesn’t quite extend to the raki and Jasper toasts with an age-appropriate shot of lovely, clear local water. As we work our way through the raki flight, we offer our own toast. To our host, to his family, to their health and fitness. Long may they prosper.
Time to Go
Meanwhile, Harley has found his own little corner with some furry friends. Mother cat has allowed Harley to kitty-sit while she takes a well deserved nap. Harley is in his element with his purr-y friend. Happy to snuggle in and enjoy the warmth post lunch on a chilly Saturday afternoon.
All too soon we need to leave the great company, wonderful food and wine and soothing country views. We extract Harley who only comes reluctantly from his snuggles and it’s time for us to be on our way.
The drive back to Berat seems to hum with the aftermath of country hospitality and contentment. Perhaps also reflective of the strength of home made raki.
Back in Berat, village life continues, the perfect example of modern life meeting the old ways.
Good To Know
Alpeta Winery is reachable by car from Berat. Roshnik is about a 30 minute drive into the mountains. The hosts run farm and winery tours as well as host lunches in the restaurant. It is possible to hike and, in summer, picnic by the lake.
We visited with Endrit arranged by Albania Private Guide. However tours from Berat, including lunch and transfers, can also be booked via Trip Advisor and Viator.
Private rooms and dorm room lodgings are also available via Booking.com.
Would I Return?
Yes. This is a special spot and unmissable if you’re looking for an authentic Albanian experience.
* Strictly zero alcohol for minors!