Agia Triada of Tzangaroli Monastery

We arrive mid morning at the Agia Triada (Holy Trinity) Monastery. Already the car park is busy with a number of tourist buses arriving and departing. I gaze up and the sun drenched northwest facade and entrance belfry and know that I am about to experience something special.

Given its location on Crete’s quiet Akrotiri peninsula, this Greek Orthodox settlement has a long and colorful history in the region. It is well worth lingering a while under a magnolia or in the shade of a portico, particularly in the lull between buses. Take time to learn about its story of the past and embrace and reflect on its place in the present.

History of the Monastery

The Holy Trinity Monastery was founded by the brothers Ioannis and Loukas Tzangaroli. The brothers were already living a monastic life at the nearby Gouverneto Monastery when they began construction at Agia Triada in 1611. At the time, a church already existed on the site whereby they undertook to turn it into a convent. The brothers were well educated from a Venetian-Cretan family and they contributed their time and funds to the project along with making use of large contributions of land donated by local partitioners.

Ioannis (Ieremias), designed and oversaw construction of the complex until his death in 1634 at which time his brother, Loukas (Lavrentios), took over and continued the works. Construction was interrupted in 1645 by the onset of the Cretan War and the invasion of the Ottomans. However, by this time most of the church (katholicon) and the other buildings were completed.

The monastery was able to continue operation relying on the production of olive oil and wine for sale as well as producing other crops including citrus, animal husbandry and bee keeping.

By the onset of the Greek War of Independence (1821), the monastery was prosperous and housed many important and valuable relics and icons. Much of this was looted in June 1821, however, the most valuable relics were preserved. The monks had been informed a few days before and hid the most prized possessions in the crypts, leaving enough icons and holy vessels inside the katholikon (church) so as not to arouse suspicion. The monks then fled through the mountains of Stavros to the sea and were transported by ship to the nearby village of Kalyves.

The monastery remained sacked and abandoned for six years until two monks returned and began intense efforts to rebuild. In the years that followed, the dome of the church was constructed and reconstruction and renovation works carried out. Many new icons were acquired and in 1832 a school was established.

Church

At the beginning of Greco Turkish War the monastery was used as a hospital and refuge of the civilian population (1896-1897).

By the 1970’s the complex had again reached a level of decline and, after being designated an historic protected monument, was revived and restored.

The interior of the katholikon is characteristic of the latter 16th Century, influenced by the Cretan Renaissance and Venetian Mannerism. This style can be identified in the artworks by awkward movement, exaggerated poses and the distorted human forms depicted.

The decoration of the current interior is largely a collection from 1821 onwards, replacements for the riches previously sacked. Most are sourced from local workshops. Two precious 17th Century icons of Saint Ioannis and the Savior Christ are preserved and exhibited in the museum.

Museum

In addition to these two precious icons, the museum houses other decoration, manuscripts and vestments from the original katholicon. Among these is: a 12th Century scroll with the liturgy of Vassilios the Great; the “possessor’s” epitrachelion (stole) from 1757; and the “Blessing Cross” of the monk Martinianos (early 19th Century).

Community & Economy

With the efforts of the religious fraternity, the Monastery has been restored to prosperity. It continues today as an important religious and spiritual centre of Crete. It is an economic hub of the community earning income from tourism. In addition, the monastery has re-established its vineyards, olive and citrus crops, beekeeping and livestock production and animal husbandry.

As well as contributing to the local economy, the monastery prides itself as a place of care, respect and love for nature and God. It is a favorite destination for locals and foreign believers alike.

Good To Know

The Agia Triada Monastery complex is open for visitors 5am – 8pm everyday except Wednesdays.

Tours run from nearby Chania. If you don’t have time for a day trip, take a short detour on the way to Chania’s airport. The airport is less than 5 minutes (3km) from the site and yet a world away.

Take time to reflect on the spiritual heritage of the site with a quiet moment in the church and gardens. Learn from history in the museum with its precious displays. On the way out, support the going concern by purchasing something from the cellar door and shop.

Would I Return?

Yes. Most definitely.