Arriving through the cobbled streets of Veliko Tărnovo the first site we behold as we check into our accommodation at the Yantra Grand Hotel is Tsarevets Fortress. Tsarevets, the hillside fortress of this medieval capital, spans the horizon, across the river and over the green gorge, laid out before our eyes.
Barely able to contain our excitement, we push the creeping exhaustion of our travel day back, and head out into the evening for a closer look. After a short walk through town, we are rewarded with a pink sunset view from the main gate. The fortress is closed to sightseers at this time of night.
The next morning I bound out of bed to check that I haven’t dreamed the whole thing. Heading down to breakfast, I’m still pinching myself as I select scrambled eggs and coffee. Charlotte & I and sit down to dine with this dreamy view in front of us that we are itching to explore.
After breakfast, our guide, Adriana of Private Guide Bulgaria, is waiting for us at our hotel and we wander back through the cobbled streets to the gate which is now open to visitors.
We start our tour of the medieval stronghold of Tsarevets which stands proudly, surrounded on three sides by an elbow of the Yantra River. It is observed by the town of Veliko Tărnovo which wraps around it like an architectural amphitheater, as if awaiting the fortress’s own production.
The History
We enter through one of the three entrances or gates. Today it is a cobbled road with a friendly ticket seller but the history of the site goes back thousands of years. It was settled by the Thracians and Romans, primarily because of its defensible location and many of the early ruins are Byzantine (5th – 7th Century AD). After this came the Slavs and Bulgars (8th – 10th Century) who rebuilt and further fortified the site. During the Middle Ages, the gates had drawbridges that dictated entry and exit and protected the inhabitants and the island like fortification served as the Second Bulgarian Empire’s primary fortress. From 1185 to 1393, the likes of King Peter, King Aspen, King Kaloyan and Ivan Asen (of Asen’s Fortress) reigned from here with the fortress housing the royal palace as well as serving as a military stronghold.
Within this the fortress housed a town with residences, craft workshops and a number of churches and monasteries all nestled on the slopes of Tsarevet’s Hill under the protection of the castle and within the fortress walls.
During the Second Bulgarian Empire the castle itself was fortified with two towers and had two entrances. The castle complex, like the rest of the fortress is mostly in ruins today. The castle consisted of the royal residences, a throne room and a palace church (to compliment the other 24 churches of the town).
Despite the limited means of entry and large fortified walls and towers, the seat of the Empire was nevertheless conquered by the Ottomans in July of 1393. This brought the Second Bulgarian Empire to an end.
The Reserve
We explore some of the ruins, making our way up the hill to the patriarchate with the Cathedral of the Ascension Of the Lord. This building, a former Eastern Orthodox Cathedral, was renovated in the 1980’s. It also sits on the site of a late Roman church. Inside are modern frescos and although it looks and feels like a church, this is not an active (consecrated) place of worship. However, being the only structure on the hill that is not in a state of ruin, it receives a visit from the majority of visitors to the Tsarevets site. Plus, the views from here alone are worth the steep climb.
Across the river, accessible by a bridge, are Asen’s and the Jewish Quarter. This was an additional fortified township and the location of the (now ruins) Church of St. George and the Church of St. Demetrius as well as more residences, workshops and other structures.
Baldwin’s Tower
Returning towards the main entrance, we veer right from the entrance and along the path hugging the southern wall. Here we find the remains of a church and a number of other clearly identifiable architectural footprints. At the end of the path is the restored Baldwin Tower. This is where Baldwin I of Flanders met his end. Baldwin was a traitorous Crusader who led the sacking of Christian Byzantium in 1204. He was imprisoned in the tower. Bulgarian legend has it that the Queen, who thought him handsome and exotic, tried to seduce him. This eventually brought about his demise as, after Baldwin refused her, she accused him of trying to seduce her. This outraged King Kaloyan who had Baldwin executed.
There are nice views of the university area of Veliko Tărnovo from the partially resorted Baldwin Tower. That is, if you can shake the creepy feeling from history lingering in its stones long enough to enjoy.
We traveled Bulgaria with Adriana from Private Guide Bulgaria. See also:
Good To Know
Tsarevets is easily accessible from Veliko Tărnovo. Buy a ticket at the information centre before heading up to the gate. The site is an architectural reserve, rather than simply one point of interest. Take note of the map as you enter as there is not a lot of information or directions available once you are walking around. Guided tours are available for an additional fee. Watch your step, the paths are rough and broken. Off the paths there may be potholes and steep drops.
The site is accessible 8am – 7pm April to October with shorter hours (9am – 5pm) during winter. Adult tickets are 6 leva.
Would I Return?
Yes. Veliko Tărnovo is a beautiful town and Tsarevets is a large and interesting site with numerous ruins. Both are well worth exploring. I would return to the site to further explore the castle ruins, Asen’s Quarter and the Jewish Quarter.
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