Usually a fan of beautiful rather than bizarre, this Russian Soviet monument, looks more like something from Space Jam than from Bulgaria’s Communist past. Locally referred to as simply as the Socialism Monument, even ‘bizarre’ does not quite describe what stands before me.
History
Built in 1981 to “glorify the county’s Communist Party and to mark the birthplace of Bulgarian socialism” (https://www.bbc.com/news/Avenue/worlde-europe-44644707) the Buzludzha Monument is built right in the geographical middle of Bulgaria. Its location on top of a mountain peak of the same name, near to the winding but exceeding picturesque Shipka Pass, makes it somewhat of an effort to get to. The views through the Pass and from the top of the mountain, at least, are worth it.
We arrive on a blisteringly chilly early May afternoon. The wind blustering so much that we struggle to get the car doors open much less walk against it. On top of the hill the Monument towers over us. Its crumbling facade a tribute to both what Communism was and now is.
At The Top
Closed since the fall of the Communist Party in 1989 the building itself is hazardous. A weakened structure, a result of no maintenance, weather, age and vandalism contribute to the monument’s dilapidated state. Inside, we are told that there were approximately 937 square meters of mosaics, some of which have since been destroyed thanks to the same reasons as the structural problems. Up until recently you could still get in to have a look but security is more strict these days. I am unsure as to whether it is the monument or the people that are being protected.
Apparently there are plans to restore and preserve the site for posterity. However, right now there are no physical signs of this and the monument remains in a state of disrepair.
We walk up to and under the original entrance with crumbling words about Communism. It could, perhaps, have been grand. At least inspiring – in a cold, grey sort of way. Now the sense of abandonment is heightened by the remote location and the graffiti that encircles the reachable parts of the facade.
Bulgarians seem accepting of their Communist past. But that does not mean that it is celebrated in a way that Roman or Greek history might be. I interpret the monument’s continued existence (in whatever withered state) as a symbol of a historical lesson, something that is glad to be past and not to be repeated but that is also part of the fabric of life of Bulgaria’s people. I’m sure it must bring mixed feelings to the locals that visit.
Surroundings
Navigating the path around the southern side it is the view that captures my attention the most. Botev Peak, the highest peak in the Balkan Mountains is visible from here with snow still dusting the top. The temperature has dropped from a mild 18°C at the Shipka Memorial Church to a mere 6°C. The wind chill factor that means I can no longer feel my face or hands.
I look up at the 70m high pylon which reminds me of the Carillon in Canberra. The starkness of the bare concrete is both strikingly powerful and yet, unfinished. I turn to stare out at the scenery around me, which is in stark contrast to the building. Taking in the greens and blues of the mountain ranges also not dissimilar to the Snowy Mountains of home.
Then, like winter anywhere, we head for the shelter of the car. Once we are out of the wind my fingers have a chance to defrost. During the drive to the Thracian Tomb of Kazanlak my mind swirls with images of what this monument means. Has humanity really learned from the experiences of the past? I contemplate how different my life could have been if my past had been slightly rearranged. What if my grandparents had made a decision to stay in Europe, rather than leave, in the years after World War II? On a lighter note, I might go and watch Space Jam.
Good To Know
The Socialism Monument was visited as part of a Bulgarian tour and would not ordinarily be a destination of itself. It is situated slightly off track between Veliko Tărnovo and Plovdiv.
We traveled Bulgaria with Adriana from Private Guide Bulgaria. See also:
Would I Return?
No. One visit has given me more than enough to contemplate.
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