We start our day in Palma de Majorca at the Parc de la Mar, right in front of La Sau, the Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma. This incredible Cathedral dominates the skyline of this entire stretch of the old town of this stunning port side city.
Gateway to the Balearic Islands, Palma’s history dates back to the Roman times though it was conquered by Muslims in 902 which lead to Palma being annexed to the Emirate of Córdoba and a subsequent period of Islamic rule. In 1229, James I of Aragon conquered the city which regained its Christian rule and his son, James II of Mallorca later had a heavy influence on shaping the city as we see it today. During this Medieval period, James II began construction of some of the city’s most notable buildings including La Sau, the Palace of Almudania, and Bellver Castle.
Today, Mallorca is a holiday destination with everything – beaches, dining, water sports, nature, hiking all with a good dose of Spanish sunshine and friendliness. Not to mention history, culture and architecture.
One of the pinnacles of Palma’s architecture is La Sau, whose grandiose 44m nave makes it noticeable from across the city. Standing inside, this lofty height leaves plenty of room for soaring spires, magnificent flying buttresses and a plethora of stained glass, not to mention the 21 chapels that surround the primary area of worship.
Although the foundation stone for the cathedral was ceremoniously laid in 1229, it was not until the reign of James II of Mallorca that the construction of the cathedral began in earnest. Completion was finally accomplished in 1601. Some say this gives the overall impression of a patchwork structure with its mix of styles and techniques. I don’t see it, clearly my eye is not well trained enough.
To me, this morning, the rainbow of light streaming in from the windows gives a feeling that God Himself is streaming in. I wouldn’t be surprised to hear an outburst of the ‘Hallelujah’ chorus, though for now the interior remains hushed and solemn. We make a tour of the chapels but for me the highlight is sitting for a quiet moment, absorbing the beauty of the structure and the slowly changing hues from the Rose Window.
Back outside we loop back through the park along Av. D’Antoni Maura to approach the palace from the steps leading up to it and the Cathedral, with the Parc de la Mer behind us once again.
The Royal Palace of La Almudania sits comfortably elevated above the Parc, owning her sweeping views of the marina although very much dominated by the imposing Cathedral. Perhaps this is why I mistook the entrance at first glance, distracted by dodging those photographing themselves with the more striking of the two facades in the background.
The palace, like the cathedral, stands on the site of important previous settlements and buildings dating back to Roman times and it is likely that this has been the seat of power on the island ever since.
The Arabic influences, remnants of the Muslim period of rule, can still be seen in the shape and layout of the castle and some of the features of the fortress.
The castle has served as the main court of the Mallorcan kings, as the site of Official Audiences, the residence of the Viceroy and the Captain General, and the administrative centre of Royal Heritage sites on the island. Today, La Almudaina is the official residence of the King of Spain when visiting Mallorca.
Today we explore the relatively small part of the castle that is open to the public. The ground floor is The Hall of Fireplaces and The Hall of Kings, along with the historic Arab Baths and wonderful views from the terrace. The highlights of the upper floor include the include the Queen’s Palace and the Great Hall or Tinell (divided over two levels since the 16th century to accommodate larger audiences). Off the courtyard is the charming Santa Ana Chapel.
After exploring the palace for a leisurely hour or so, we walk only a few steps before we pause, drawn in at the Ca’s Caparrut Cafe but he wafting smell of coffee. Once here we find the gelato irresistible and lick away while we peruse our map and plot our course for the rest of the day.
It was tempting to visit Valldemosa, a quaint hillside village about half an hour away, but we have decided not to rush our day. With our two big ticket attractions completed by 12pm we decide to spend the rest of our time enjoying wandering the streets of this picturesque old town.
From Ca’s on Carrer del Palau Reial we walk up past the Town Hall to the Plaça de Cort and through the streets along the ritzy Carrer de Colom to the Plaça Major. This is Palma’s traditional centre and the set of the infamous Spanish Inquisition in Mallorca until 1823. No longer the true centre of city life, today there are cafes and market stalls here catering firmly to the tourist trade although the atmosphere is thoroughly Mediterranean complete with being enclosed on all sides by three stories of apartments with the typical yellow facade and green shutters. It reminds me of the pink tinged Italian Forum on Norton Street (in Leichhardt, Sydney) near where we used to live. I loved that Italian flavored neighborhood complete with Norton Street Grocer, a fabulous little supermarket where we used to get our fresh produce as well as Italian restaurants and a proper gelato shop, not as a common sight in the early naughties in Sydney as they are around here.
Unlike Norton Street, however, once we are out of the Placa, here the Mediterranean architecture continues as we make our way through yet more pretty streets to Plaça d’Espana with its monument of King James I (James the Conqueror).
Wherever we look there is picture postcard worthy scenery, notable buildings and tempting treats from cookies the size of a dinner plate to pearls as dazzling as the day. We follow our trail along Carrer dels Oms, a shopping street and come out at the the tree lined La Rambla to the end where it turns into Plaça de Waller with its beautiful architectural trifecta of the Theatre (Teatre Principal), Hotel (Gran Hotel Caixaforum) and the Courts (Tribunal Superior de Justícia de les Illes Balears).
We follow our noses along the busy street filled with shops and the bustling Plaça Rei Joan Carles I until we come out at the Passeig de Mallorca at the canal. We cannot help but stop at the Pont de la Porta de Santa Caterina for photos of the Torrent de Sa Riera (canal). This draws us along the canal further, arriving at Es Baluard, a museum of modern and contemporary art. We skip the inside but take the opportunity to climb the stairs cleverly integrated with a fraction of the old town wall that remains for some spectacular views out to the Marina as well as over the sun drenched roofs of the old town back towards the palace and cathedral.
We loop our way back past the cathedral hub which is now positively packed with summer holiday tourists and seek out the Baños árabes, the Arab Baths.
These baths are the only remaining Arabic monuments of the muslim era of the island, dating from around the 10th Century. They are set in a small complex with a shady garden and are an interesting feature although perhaps not worth the €3 entry fee unless you are happy to take a little rest and enjoy the garden (and the restrooms). There is a television that runs a short informational video on repeat (in English, French, Spanish and German) but on two seats in the room and after missing the English version twice, I gave up.
Some more exploring of the narrow cobbled streets to the north east of the baths brings us back around to the Plaça de Cort (or Palma Square) in front of the Town Hall. It is now 4pm and our earlier coffee & gelato have worn off. We pause at Es Petit Bar for a drink – cervesa (beer) for Jason, sangria for myself and a couple of tapas – petit chorizo and spicy potatoes.
The remainder of our afternoon is taken up strolling back to the ship via Avinguda de Gabriel Roca. Along the way we find the Llotja de Palma a 15th Century Gothic building with grand columns that houses various art exhibits. There are also windmills, reminiscent of Kato Milli and apparently rife across the island. Windmills were used in Mallorca from as early as the 14th Century for pumping water, grinding flour, salt and grains and later, from the 1930’s electricity generation. These ones are looking quite dilapidated.
Something not so dilapidated is another fabulous looking gelato shop and we sneak one in at the last minute. Just because we are on holidays, it is summer and we can!
Good To Know
Although we caught a metered taxi, taxis from the port may charge a hefty €10 service tariff which are not clearly advertised. It cost us €18 for the short ride from the port to the Parc de la Mar. It is best to ask for an estimate of total cost (inclusive of tariffs and service charges) before you get in for your ride.
We also considered visiting Valdemosa which was advertised for around €35. Our taxi driver advised us that it would cost around €50 one way and then proceeded to advise that we would not find a return taxi but that he could provide a round trip (2 hour tour) for €150.
It was not until we declined this and questioned him further that we found our there were local buses available to/from Valdemosa for a fraction of the cost. These leave from the bus station in from of Parc de la Mar.
Although we gave it a miss in the end, not wanting to rush our day, with a bit of planning, the right information and getting going slightly earlier, this would have been a worthwhile tour.
Would I Return?
Yes. Palma is the gateway to the Balearic Islands, a veritable playground of beaches, restaurants, sights, tours, boating, diving, snorkeling, hiking and swimming in the clear waters of the Med.
In addition to this it offers the rich cultural and historic experience of various museums, palaces, cathedrals, picturesque mountain villages and scenery.
Plan your time out to make the most of what this versatile destination has to offer.
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