Victoria Peak, Man Mo & The Star Ferry

It’s nearly 10am before we leave the apartment headed for Victoria Peak. So much for my daily schedule. Though I shouldn’t be too hard on us, we’re all exhausted after the Thursday night flight and did quite well to get through our arrival and first afternoon in Hong Kong relatively unscathed.

This morning we navigate our way from Causeway Bay to Central and then pop out in search of The Peak Tram. After a bit of navigating, we come across the line that circles around I have flashbacks to long queues for everything in China from the big ticket items like the Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven to the supermarket and metro lines. We wait.

It turns out to move fairly quickly and within half an hour we’re on the tram (funicular) and the steep ascent to the top. The tram is a tourist must do in Hong Kong, being a feature in the city since 1888 the tram covers the 1.4km track in less than 10 minutes, raising us up past the sky scrapers of the city to Victoria Peak, nearly 400m above The Peak tram stop to Garden Road (552m above sea level).

Victoria Peak is more than just a look out and as we exit from the tram station into a shopping centre under The Peak Tower, there are locals as well as tourists. Jason & I are both in search of a coffee and I haven’t had any breakfast so we pause for coffee with a view at Pacific Coffee before taking a walk along Findlay Road, pausing at the Lion’s Pavillion for photos and admiring the view from along this relatively quiet stretch of pathway.

We head back to the Tower for some lunch and then take a walk along Harlech Road trail (with a view to looping around and returning on the Lugard Road track). A little way in the boys are fading and we take the call to head back as there is still much to do.

After a short taxi ride and a little rest of the legs we find ourselves at Man Mo Temple in Sheung Wan. This Temple is the largest in Hong Kong and was built in 1847.

Jasper doesn’t like the smoke and stays outside while I take Harley in and explain that the incense is a link between the worshippers and Buddha. It is also representative of burning (sacrificing) oneself although it can also be as an offering in prayer for something more valuable on earth (love, health, money).

There is a drum and a bell that were used for keeping time. They are much smaller than the ones we saw in Beijing (see Drum & Bell Towers), except these ones we allowed to ring. Harley has a try but soon the smoke gets too much for him as well and I venture into the main hall alone to observe the coils hanging from the ceiling and the many lanterns as well as Man (god of literature) and Mo (god of war).

After observing the ritual I also venture to rub Man’s literary scroll for lucky and hopefully knowledge, following those in line in front of me and confident that the shiny, well worn part of the book and scroll receives hundreds, perhaps thousands of touches per day. The lady that follows me bows and mutters a prayer. It’s too late for me now though and I stroll around some more through the thick incense smoke hanging low in the space, taking in the peering eyes of the statues sitting amongst their fruit, flower and (more) incense offerings.

Red lanterns hang low, forming a square shape, just inside of the panel situated in the doorway. There don’t appear to be any off limit areas, worshippers and tourists alike weaving in and out. A counter off to the side sells all manner of offerings and sacrifices.

Back outside the boys are amusing themselves with a tuk tuk. I get drawn in, if only to prove how very strong they are (or how very heavy I am – one bowl of wontons too many!).

From here we set off in vague search of Cat Street and a few more temples with a plan to end up at a park – there is only so much walking two boys will do in a day without some running in between. We find Cat Street easily enough with its market stalls and shops selling all manner of souvenirs, particularly games.

I would love to get Jasper one of the chess sets for Christmas but our luggage is already brims with gifts to take to Australia. Harley likes the swords and all of a sudden I’m glad for the luggage restrictions.

Our walk leads us through more of Sheung Wan with its antique and jade shops. Some of the jade sculptures are incredibly intricate and we pause to check out the designs. Another feature of the area are the little temples (shrines) in niches along the streets. Many have incense freshly lit and are clearly tended daily.

We stop at another Pacific Coffee along Hollywood Road. The boys need something to eat and Jason & I are happy for a coffee and the break. From here it is only a short walk uphill to the Pak Shing Temple and Kwong Fuk Ancestral Hall.

The Kwong Fuk Ancenstral Hall is a level off the street. I climb the stairs noting the small sign suggesting opening hours but this is clearly not a tourist destination and although the duration of visit seems short, there is no shortage of patrons passing through to pay their respect.

The Pak Shing Temple, just a little way along and up a larger set of stairs ascending the hillside, is even smaller than the Ancestral Hall. The hall houses ancestral tablets of the deceased although was originally built in 1856 to store corpses awaiting repatriation to China after the wishes of many traditional Chinese migrants from the mainland wanting to be buried in their home town. Pak Shing, literally ‘people’, is a temple for the people and those that could not afford to repatriate erected the ancestral tablets that remain here today.

By now we have been walking and sightseeing much of the day. It’s time to find somewhere for the boys to let off steam. A little way along we find Hollywood Road Park, the perfect place. The boys run around at the open children’s playground whilst Jason and I contemplate the landscaped grounds complete with turtles sunning themselves in the pond. A short walk across the road and I have acquired two ice creams that are devoured quickly and quietly before another play session.

Soon we round up the boys and walk down towards the Harbour via the Western Markets. There is much more to explore in the district with its new lined streets and trams traveling up and down, however tonight we head along the waterfront to the Star Ferry wharf.

The Star Ferry is an icon of Hong Kong. Almost as recognizable on Victoria Harbour as the spectacular backdrop of skyline that is Hong Kong Island. After a pause to watch a street performer we board the ferry for a picturesque 15 minutes, disembarking onto Kowloon and into the evening throng.

There is a large Christmas Tree and display set up outside the Harbour City shopping centre and people are lined up for photos against the festive backdrop. We enter the shopping centre in search of dinner and end up at Jamie’s Italian for always excellent pizza with a picture on the wall of the old Hong Kong under the shadow of the flight path. I can almost hear the deafening roar of the plane overhead (as I have flashbacks to where we used to live under the flight path in Leichhardt, Sydney).

From here it is back to our apartment in Causeway Bay via the Star Ferry and a tram ride along Hennessy Road. We all fade fast once we are back at our apartment on Paterson Street.

Good To Know

We hired our apartment in Causeway Bay through Airbnb. Although Jason did a lot of research to find the right place for us, this apartment was outstanding. Two proper bedrooms, a well equipped kitchen and small but very functional bathroom. The apartment has been beautifully renovated and was a pleasure to stay in.

In addition to this we both arrived a bit early and left a bit late. This was kindly accommodated by our host. The details and instructions for the apartment were detailed and thorough and I must say, the view was incredible.

Would I Return?

Yes. Both to the apartment and to Hong Kong. There is much more to be explored!