We have spent the morning at Christiansborg Palace a former royal palace on the island of Slotsholmen and today the seat of the Danish Parliament and the Supreme Court of Denmark. After exploring the delights of the palace, we head outside to explore the equally delightful streets of the city – Copenhagen and the Round Tower.
It is only a short walk from Christiansborg to the Storkespringvandet (Stork Fountain) and we mosey on up Købmagergade, one of the main streets. It is sunny (more or less) and the streets are busy with afternoon shoppers and those enjoying the summer. This street has a history that dates back to around 1200 and has been a thoroughfare lined with butcher’s shops, the location of a porcelain factory and today boasts many international as well as local brands.
There is always something fascinating to see and interesting to notice in a city with so much history. I love the drain covers with their varying designs all over the city. This one in particular makes me smile.
We make our way to the Rundentaarn (Round Tower) an astronomical observatory tower from the 17th Century and find our way into the attached Trinitatis Church (also 17th Century), the light and airy whitewashed interior in contrast to the heavy red-brown brick facade. Along with the Copenhagen University Library, these form part of the Trinitatis Complex.
Founded by Frederik IV of Denmark in 1637, the Trinitatis Church has a few interesting inclusions: the pulpit is very ornate, the vaulted ceiling is tastefully highlighted, the clock (on the right, above), platforms up on either side of the main beautifully sculptured pews and a large organ (a more recent installation in 1956).
What we are really here to see though is the tower. Completed in 1642 for Christian IV of Denmark the observatory tower was intended for astronomical study construction was finished long before the church was (1651). We enter through the north west portal and pay our entrance admittance at a little office huddled against the wall. Then up the spiral ramp, all 281m and 7½ turns. Designed as an equestrian staircase, the incline does not really seem like much at first but it turns out that we are somewhat lucky to have a few stops along the way.
What was once the library hall of the university is now used as an exhibition space, for cultural events and a concert hall. You can enter here and take in the art, I wonder how well the acoustics would work though.
Somewhere along the incline is a privy or toilet we are told was used by the researchers and astronomers that worked in the tower. There is a seat and a shaft leading down to the bottom floor. Given that no concessions were made to empty the shaft, nor any ventilation provided to the outside, it is understandably part of the observation element of the observatory today.
The glass floor allows a safe way to observe the 25m drop of the hollow core of the tower. This was considered the geographical point zero of Denmark when the county’s survey observations were recorded, starting in the 1760’s.
The Bell Loft is above the library hall and was rebuilt after the Copenhagen fire of 1728. Today there are exhibits of historic items here. Jasper is less excited about seeing this than getting to the top and he and Grandma hide and ‘boo!’ from the nooks and crannies situated periodically along the ramp’s incline. It occurs to me that Grandma’s motivation for hiding here may be slightly different to Jasper’s.
Finally we reach a spiral staircase that takes us out to the viewing platform and then, behold the sight!
It is understandable how this small platform can be one of the city’s most popular attractions. Despite there being so much to see and do here – Tivoli Gardens, Christiansborg Palace, the Danish National Museum, Amelienborg Palace, Rosenborg, Nyhavn, the Little Mermaid, the Kastellet and the canals – there is something special about observing it all from a wrought iron topped terrace.
The views really are breathtaking. The terracotta rooftops make those that are constructed from copper pop even more with the green a telltale sign of their age and the many windows passively observe the streets below as they have done for many years and will continue into the future.
Closer to hand, the latticework actually contains King Christian IV royal cypher and the initials of his motto “Regna Firmat Pietas” (piety strengthens the realms).
Reluctantly we make our way back down the tower ramp to the street. An ice cream and some shopping are in order before we make our way back to our apartment – mum and I have a date with the Queen!
Would I Return?
Yes. Whether you have been here only once or a hundred times before it seems that there would always be something new to observe or contemplate around Copenhagen and its Round Tower. That, combined with the interesting streets below that make up part of the journey to the top, are well worth returning to.
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