Contrary to most amusement parks these days, Tivoli Gardens is both an amusement park and magical adventure wonderland. In fact, it is described as an amusement park and pleasure garden. And that it is.
Originally opened in August 1843, Tivoli is a fairytale wonderland fun fair. It’s created for a wholistic amusement experience rather than being based around the trill of the ride and there is something for everyone here.
The first thing that strikes me is just how pretty it is. A vision of flowers, lights and color. The rides have started and the cafes are crowded already.
The boys make a beeline for the roller coaster. While grandma waits this one out, we wait for a short time in line and then off we go, four of us together in a little rickety carriage. This is definitely one of those old fashioned, wooden rollercoasters.
My expectations are not high going into the blacked out tunnel, the we are whisked away through the dark likes something out of a cartoon where you get lost in a mine shaft. Up and down and round and round. I may or may not let a little squeal slip. The boys laugh at me. The noise from the rickety wooden frame and click clack of the tracks adds to the momentary sense of terror. Then it’s over and we bundle off, all laughing together. Not bad for one of the oldest roller coasters in the world (it was built in 1914).
Next is the hot air balloon ride. Again there is a short line but we climb up to wait on the platform. Before long we’re in another little carriage, this time ascending over the top of the gardens with a wonderful, sprawling view of the gardens, fountains, theatre and rides below.
We wander along a little further to the Star Flyer which Jasper wants to try. I remember going on something similar at Australia’s Wonderland when I was young. This one takes a bit more nerve given that it rises to an impressive 80m. It’s built like a classic swing carousel bu the height means more spectacular views, this time not just over Tivoli but out over Copenhagen as well.
Harley is still a little small so I offer to take him around to the train ride we’ve seen. The Odin Express sounds like a cute ride for Harley and if a 4 year old is allowed on, it must be fine right? I have clearly been fooled into a false sense of comfort here. The Odin Express is indeed an ‘express’ ride. I find out after the event that the steel track allows the twists and turns. Combined with the high speed and that fact that it gets to two floors above the ground, this is one breathtaking ride. Harley is delighted with the fact that once again, it’s me doing the squealing (with delight, I’m sure!).
After this we’re after something more tame, or so it seems. The boys spot the bumper cars and off we go again. Harley needs someone to ride with him. Given that both mum and Jason are out with bad backs I have no choice but to go. It’s not a voluntary move, Harley is a maniac behind the wheel!
After the morning so far I’m feeling rather exhilarated and perhaps the adrenaline has kicked in when I suggest the Aquila to Jasper. The Aquila, named after the constellation of the Eagle, also lives up to its name. This one flips you upside down as you’re turning giving a 4G centrifugal experience. I come off laughing again albeit slightly nervously this time and also extremely grateful that I haven’t had lunch yet. What a ride!
It started out a little rainy this morning but it’s turned into a reasonably clear day, if a little chilly. The gardens still appear decidedly summery however. Flowers are in full bloom, bees buzz around, fountains flow and the atmosphere is cheery. The boys run around playing hide and seek as we stop for some sanwhiches and fruit. Everyone is laughing and happy. And who wouldn’t be with a day out like this?
After our snacks we make our way back around to some more rides. After a little while we try out the Flying Trunk where we sit in a ‘trunk’ and fly though 32 fairy tale scenes. Most of the rides have story or theme to connect them to Danish culture in some way shape or form. This one is, of course, based on one of the most famous Danes of all time, Hans Christian Anderson, the poet and author. Not only is the ride themed around one of his tales, but many of the scenes incorporate his tales also.
The Flying Trunk, first published in 1839, is the story of a young man who squanders his inheritand and finds himself destitute. A friend gives him a trunk to pack his possessions and start a new life. However, as he has nothing left to put into the trunk, he climbs in himself.
The enchanted trunk whisks him off to exotic Turkey where he encounters a young maiden in a tower. The maiden is a Sultan’s daughter, locked up due to a prophecy that marriage would make her unhappy. The man charms the girl and her parents with his stories and they become engaged. In order to celebrate the engagement, he buys fireworks and flies over the land in the trunk setting them off. Only the trunk catches alight and is lost. He can no longer visit his princess and she is lost to him so he wanders the world telling stories instead.
The ride includes scenes from the Little Mermaid, The Nightingale, The Emperor’s New Clothes, The Snow Queen, Thumbelina and many more. The boys don’t recognize much of it at all but it brings many a sentimental childhood memory back for me and I take a moment to ponder what my children’s heads are being filled with if not these world famous fairytales.
After all this contemplation and memory jogging it’s time for something to eat. The sandwiches and fruit that we brought with us and shared between five were really only a snack and certainly not enough to keep us going all day.
We order some food and sit overlooking the Dragon Boat lake to eat. Of course, after lunch, the Dragon Boats are now firmly on Harley’s agenda. Jasper & I leave them to it and head off to seek something a little more thrilling.
We find what we’re looking for in Fatamorgana but Jasper isn’t quite tall enough for the 2.5G force ride at the top of the 45m tower. There is a ‘softer’ option though. Still at a height of 45m, we ride in a sphinx looking gondola at speeds that feels like we’re flying. I try to enjoy the view as I secretly thank my lucky stars that he wasn’t big enough for the same ride but strapped into a seat with your legs hanging out into the open air and with a few extra twists and turns along the way. My stomach has just about had enough for one day!
We double back and find the line for the Dragon Boat ride has shortened a little so we take a turn on this too. By now it’s time for the parade and we make our way around towards the stage. I’m amazed at how large the grounds are and how much we still haven’t explored.
At Plaenem, the open air stage, the parade is in full swing with fairy tale characters a plenty. I believe I spot a few that I know but really there are peacocks, porters, princesses, pianos and all sorts of characters. Next thing we know, along come a marching band. We take a rest on the sun lounges for a while as the boys have something to eat. Then it’s time to choose one more ride.
Jasper wants to go on the Star Flyer one more time. Harley has chosen the Odin Express again, conveniently they are next to each other. We make our way over. The lines are decidedly longer now than they were this morning but eventually we call the rides done for the day.
We walk along side show alley, peppered with bars and more restaurants. It’s time to get the boys back to the apartment but we do get slightly distracted by the crazy mirrors. Then grandma decides we should have ice-cream to top the day off.
Mum & Jason decide to stay on and enjoy the lights and some of the night entertainment over a drink. We spend a lengthy toilet stop before we’re headed off – I have two tired boys to get to bed. It’s been a fun filled day full of fairy tale adventures. I’m sure we’re all having sweet dreams of Tivoli Gardens tonight.
Would I Return?
Yes. Not only can I picture ladies with parasols and long white lace dresses walking around this fantasy playground but somehow Tivoli Gardens has managed to stay modern and relevant over its 175 year history without losing its utter charm and pleantness. If only it was a little closer to home…
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