It’s my birthday and I am celebrating in Copenhagen. We have spent the morning on a boat tour of Copenhagen’s canals, after I have been spoiled with some lovely gifts first thing. Now it’s time for lunch and we’ve landed in Nyhavn, one of the most recognizable and perhaps one of the most picturesque spots of the city.
I choose Nyhavn 37 for both the menu and the outlook. We are seated at a table outside, with enough of a view of the water, the boats and the pedestrian traffic to give a real sense of atmosphere. We order some drinks plus pizza for the boys, a steak and fries for Jason, mum selects a mixed platter and I choose mussels, something that is both celebratory and comforting on this ever so slightly chilly day.
We settle in for our meal and to enjoy the occasion. After their pizza the boys don’t last long. They’ve been sitting all morning and now they’re itching to get going. Some games keep them going for a little while. Feeding the pigeons works wonders as well until we’re done and we set out for more active afternoon adventures.
We walk over to Rosenborg park and gardens. It’s only about 5 minutes from Nyhavn and as soon as we hit the grass and the open space, the boys are off, running. I watch them affectionately reflecting on another year gone by. It’s been a good one though.
We stretch our legs and climb a tree. The boys take off to play hide and seek in the rose garden and keep us guessing for a while as they weave themselves in and out of the surrounding hedge. I stroll through the manicured flowers and admire the garden and the view of the adjacent castle.
Jason has disappeared and after a while returns with two tickets to the palace, Rosenborg Slot. He’s going to take the boys for an ice cream – none of them are that interested in another palace!
This one is pretty special. Built in 1606 it was first a summer house but then served as the seat of Demark’s monarchy until 1710. Built in the Dutch Renaissance style it’s quite long and thin as far as palaces go but it looks rather magical from the rose gardens with its Disney princess like spires.
We do the tour through the castle and treasury which takes a little over an hour and emerge into the bright sunny day two two sticky but happy children and a less sticky but still ice-cream happy husband. It’s getting on in the afternoon by now. I have been promised a birthday dinner date and so Jason takes the opportunity for a quiet walk back to the apartment whilst mum and I wait around the corner for the bus back to Central Station.
Once in the apartment mum takes over and we get ready to go out with no real destination in mind. Jason likes the idea of going to Tivoli for dinner. I’m less enthusiastic as we have all day there planned for tomorrow.
In the end we stroll back down to The Standard which looked nice from the river cruise this morning but on closer inspection isn’t really what we’re after. We walk up the river and cross over the Inderhavnsbroen bridge to a street market with food stalls near the Cultural Centre. We have a drink and sit for a while, then make our way back to Nyhavn for dinner. Afterwards we walk back along Strøget, one of Europe’s longest pedestrian streets. It’s got all manner of shops from H&M to Hermès. We spend our fortune on Nordic homemade ice-cream as the shops have closed for the night. Not Venchi but pretty fantastic anyway and a nice substitute for a birthday cake to top off the night.
On the way back past Tivoli, it’s looking like a great place to go. I get an ‘I told you so’ which, this time at least, I may deserve. At least we’re going there tomorrow. I guess it’s true what they say – despite another birthday, you never stop learning!
Would I Return?
Yes. Copenhagen is a vibrant and exciting city. It has a fabulous sense of history and culture that is efortlessly mixed with a hip art and restaurant scene and an atmosphere that is animated but real. I’m guessing this at least partly explains the fact that Scandinavians are rated as some of the happiest people in the world. Perhaps it’s also something to do with the excellent ice cream.
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