Kastellet

Our holiday begins in earnest and whilst yesterday was filled with waiting, today dawns to coffee and croissants (after Jason takes an early morning walk to find provisions).    Suitably fortified we ready ourselves and set off for Kastellet.

As we set off from our Friederickstrasse apartment and out along the cobbled streets I breathe in the chill of the clean, cool air and stretch my arms towards the blue sky.  It’s only early but there are runners running and bikers cycling everywhere.  Copenhagen is a cycling city and there are bikes all over the place.

As we approach Kastellet (the Citadel), the ducks and swans still have their heads nestled under their wings, tucked into the grassy banks of the moat.  Across the water the steep banks of the fortress raise up green with a manicured lushness about them.  A deceptively simple defense system.

The boys race along the gravel path and climb the still damp grassy mounds catching and throwing a tennis ball bounding along like two new puppies that have just discovered this world.  They’re not conscious of the reason they feel so elated, the clean air and cool morning, they’re just feeling great and are happy to be outside and let loose for a while.  I resist the urge to shout “be careful!” after them and smile to myself at this simple joy of a bright sunny morning outside and the chance to enjoy this escape from the midsummer heat of Dubai.

I climb the mound that they’re playing on as well and peer over another reach of water belonging to the moat and to St Alban’s church beyond.  The boys are rounded up and race over a wooden bridge and through a large stone gate, the King’s Gate, worthy of an entrance to a fortress, and to the inside.

The main courtyard area contains several buildings, but first we ascend to the top of the interior grassy mounds, the ramparts which are essentially the defensive walls beyond the moat.  Another method of defense is the cannons scattered along the top and I get shot several times throughout the morning, along with Jason, grandma, various joggers and cyclists.   Either way, the boys are not discriminatory in their defense.  Harley takes aim at two military personnel patrolling the area.  They either do not notice or are trained not to engage.  Either way they don’t seem overly concerned about being under fire!

We have walked the east side from south to north and exit through the Northern tunnel along the water to see the Little Mermaid.  She is seated on her rock watching the bus loads of tourists indifferently.  I snap photos along with everyone else, refraining from hopping out over the water to the rock where she presides.

The boys are allowed an ice cream, Grandma’s shout, and they deliberate on their flavors diligently.  Then we double back through the northern gate to complete our loop of the Kastellet and take in the main buildings as well as the church and windmill.

The Commander’s House serves as the current residence of the Danish Chief of Defense.  At the time it was built in 1725 it was the residence of the Commander of Kastellet.

There are six two-storey terraces called The Rows which were originally built as soldier’s barracks.  Two storehouses, when stocked for a siege, could hold enough to feed 1800 men and their families for four years.  A Powder House sits, quite sensibly, apart from the main buildings (there were originally two).  The design of the building ensures that, in the event of an explosion, the force moves upwards, minimizing damage to the surrounding buildings.  Later it was used as a jailhouse.

There is a (somewhat unremarkable) church with prison buildings behind it.  The prisoners could follow church services thanks to the proximity to the church and small windows allowing this.  A windmill ensures supplies to the fortified city.

We exit back out through the South Gate and check out St Alban’s Anglican Church (from the outside only as it is closed for a private wedding ceremony) and the Gefion fountain.  Then mum & Jason wait in the park with the boys while I complete my tour of the complex with the monument and finally the Swedish Church where I sit for a few minutes to enjoy the organ recital in progress.

After these few hours of fresh air and (not hot!) sunshine it would be divine to sit back in the park with a coffee and soak up the great outdoors a little more.  Alas, it is already time to get back to our Airbnb apartment.  We need to check out and make our way to our cruise departing this weekend.  Bring on more of that fresh air and sunshine!

Would I Return?

Yes. Perhaps for a jog or bike ride and preferably on a similarly cool, crisp late summer morning and not during winter when icicles form on the Little Mermaid and the waters of the moat lay frozen still. Although the scenery would be equally endearing.