I’m a bit surprised at first when Ahmed arrives to pick Vaishali and I up in a van to explore Cairo. Then I remember his sister, Dina and her three children, Aya, Adam and Hana are joining us too so the van makes sense. We say hellos across the seats and settle in to acquaint ourselves as we ride into Cairo city.
The traffic isn’t too bad to start with as we pass the shopping malls and villas of the New Cairo area, however as we start along 6 October Bridge (named so in honor of the revolution and historic protests in Tahrir Square) the traffic increases. The bridge is really a raised highway stretching a boggling 20.5 kms from near the airport in the east, over the Nile River, through downtown
Cairo with Ahmed pointing out sight and different areas along with some of the history. Little Hannah is animated but her big brother and sister keep her entertained.
At one stage there is a bang and we stop, the driver stopping to assess any damage. We are in an area with a string of interesting buildings. What are they? It is essentially a cemetery. There are, I would guess, a couple of kilometers of these structures along the roadway. Occasionally families bury their dead here and then live on top. I believe this situation is brought about more by necessity than by choice. After a long string of the same types of buildings, the architecture changes, Ahmed informs us that the first type is the Muslim design, now we have come across the Christian architecture. I look up and see the crosses on top.
As we draw closer in towards downtown we pass a busy train station, the grand El Nour Mosque, a large Cathedral and from the highway we look down to streets filled with people. Shopping, walking, talking, commuting, travelling, sitting, playing, working, some even sleeping.
We drive through Tahrir Square and then all of a sudden, the Nile River is out the window. I feel like I should pinch myself. The entrance to the bridge over this mighty river is guarded by two lions. We can see the Cairo Tower from here, our fist destination, set about it all. As we tumble out of the van not long afterwards at the base of the Tower, I’m surprised to hear that none of our local companions have been here before. This makes the whole experience more exciting as we are all first timers! We line up for tickets, enter through security and join the line on the steps which doesn’t seem to be moving very quickly.
It is a sticky night and we wait in line for a while, children playing around us, people fanning themselves in the warm evening air. The lights to the tower come on and we skip out of line to take some more photos. I look up at the lit tower, it’s designed so that the architecture, along with the lighting, give the illusion of a lotus flower. I can see it, it reminds me of the lotus flowers in China and I smile to myself again at how lucky I am to be here, gazing up at these lights. We chat and wait, Dina chases Hana around the garden, people begin to shuffle their feet. Ahmed disappears and returns with some fast tracked tickets. Hana has some snacks and offers me one of her little biscuits. I pretend to eat it and she stares at me with her big brown eyes. After a pause to consider I get a smile and am rewarded with another biscuit! Eventually we are in the lift to the top and emerge into the night air to a spectacular view of Cairo by night.
The changing view unfolds as we walk the circumference of the tower, admiring the lights, the exclusive leisure and sports clubs far below. The Opera House and 5 star hotels are easy to spot all lit up and dotting the banks of the river. The boats drift along on the shiny surface of the Nile itself, reflecting all the lights of the city back up to us.
I gaze out over this both modern and ancient city. I pinch myself again that I am able to be here, taking in these sights, with this fabulous group of people. It’s a family excursion that I have been adopted into for the night and this makes the whole experience even more special. Dina sits down with Hana for a little snack and Ahmed, thoughtful as ever, offers us a welcome bottle of cool water. It’s not as hot up here as it is on the ground, there is a little breeze and the air isn’t as close. Still, it’s hot tonight and I’m grateful for the refreshment.
After a full circle, we line up to look through the telescope and then head to the cafe for a quick drink before it’s time to get going. It’s a busy night and the delay in the line has cost us a bit of time. Back in the van and we drive past the leisure and spots clubs that we have just seen from above. The entrances from down here look even more exclusive. The streets are still busy and our driver works his way along, horns tooting and cars zinging all over the place.
It’s around 10:30pm as we’re dropped off near Khan el Khalili, a huge bazaar selling souvenirs and crafts. We cross under and underpass and pop out into a square teeming with people and it feels like we have found the beating, buzzing heart of the city.
The evening prayer booms out from the mosque above, people sit at tales in the square eating, drinking cool juices and talking, kids are running around all over the place, it’s 10:30pm! Ahmed explains that as it’s summer a lot of people come out in the evening when it’s a bit cooler, having spent the day sleeping during the worst of the heat. And it’s summer holidays, it certainly has a holiday sort of vibe.
We take a walk through the souk, the colors are as vibrant as the vendors. Red, orange, pink, yellow, green, blue, purple, all the colors of the rainbow. There are table cloths and bags, cushion covers, abayas, scarves, dresses and hats. The array, everything from beaded jewelry to ceramics is astounding. I barely know where to look.
The lighting makes everything seem even brighter and more spirited. It’s not just the lamps and lanterns that are available in the little shops of the narrow cobbled lanes, the gold and silver sparkles, there is fluorescent lighting on the mosque, the square is lit up for the diners and the moon hangs overhead.
Even from here I can hear the car horns from the traffic outside, over the din of the vendors shouting their wares, the shoppers bargaining down the prices and the children squealing with excitement at the late night antics.
Ahmed bargains for souvenirs for us – Egyptian prices are very different from tourist prices and while I don’t mind a little haggling, I’m a little overwhelmed here and am grateful to not have to. My senses are on overload. Souvenirs or no, I am content taking it all in. The hustle and bustle, the sights, smells and sounds, it’s like a party where everyone is invited. Even the cats dart in and out.
It is, however, getting late. We choose some key rings, Vaishali chooses some perfume oil, I buy a lovely little set of colored stone coffee cups and saucers. I pause for another picture of the exquisitely colored lantern display, then we turn back to the square where Dima has been waiting with Hannah and we work our way back through the crowds to find the van.
A little way along we jump out again. It’s too late now to sit and have dinner so we get shawarmas, falafel and babaganouj sandwiches. These are small rounds of Arabic bread stuffed with aromatic meat, light fluffy falafel or eggplant dip that is a main stay of Arabic meals. We also try the sweet flesh of the prickly pear from a street vendor with a cart of them. He stands, peeling the prickly (it can be painful) skin from the mound of fruit piled in front of him. This remains an affordable food to even the poor in this economically ravaged city.
The fruit is ripe and warm. It has seeds which I swallow with the rest and a pleasant taste. The fruit are rich in nutrients, vitamins and minerals, that, given their affordability, mean they are a staple in the summer months when they are in season and readily available. I am tempted for another but our shawarmas sandwiches are ready and if there’s one thing I’m certain of it’s that I won’t still be hungry after dinner. Middle Eastern hospitality will ensure this!
We jump back into the van with our food and pull out the sandwiches. I try the babaganouj first and it’s excellent. Smokey roasted eggplant with tahini paste, it’s rich and delicious. Next I try the foul (beans), I have a taste of Vaishali’s falafel and a little of Ahmed’s shawarma. It’s all good but the babaganouj is my favorite.
We eat as we drive along the Nile, looking for somewhere to stop. Hannah is still going. Dina is kind and patient but looks tired, I’m sure she’s ready for a break! We pull over on a bridge to look out over the Nile. Even here there are people walking, fishing and enjoying the night. Children still run around, there are vendors selling corn on the cob, snacks and even flowers. There is a family sitting near where we are, baby asleep on a chair, Hana makes friends with their little boy as they sit and fish. Nothing on the lines tonight.
After taking in the view and looking down into the depths of the Nile with downtown in the distance, it is time to get going. The hotel in New Cairo is still another 45 minutes drive and Hana is getting restless. I’m starting to feel it too and Vaishali and I have to work tomorrow. The drive back is somewhat less animated, after a little while, Hana finally sleeps. I look through the photos from the night and smile at the delight for the senses that Cairo by night holds.
Would I Return?
Yes. This is a fascinating city full of sights, sounds, smells and surprises. Of course the pyramids and museums are not open at night time but I have high hopes of returning to experience the other delights this city holds.
A special thank you goes out to Ahmed and his family for sharing his city with us and welcoming us into his family for the night.