I arrive at the SMCCU (Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding) early and have time to wander around the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood before my cultural breakfast begins.
My real quest, heading into the quiet streets, is for a karak tea – that lovely, strong, sweet tea flavoured with cardamom (or sometimes other flavours if you’re lucky, like at Global Village). I discover the Coffee Museum, the aromas are divine. Here there are a few rooms of displays: coffee’s history in the region as well as information on the various types of coffee, their origins and ways of preparation. They don’t serve karak tea though and I have already had my double cafe latte for the morning, so I continue on.
It is still very early by Dubai standards (before 10am) and not much is open yet. I do find a lovely little shop (Shop 37) with some beautiful artwork and pendants designed using names written in Arabic. I inquire as to the cost and they are very reasonable. The silver ones can be made in an hour, the gold plated take a couple of days so I would need to come back to pick it up. I ask for a card, I know this well be a good place to have found.
There are a few other little shops open selling carpets, lamps, coffee pots, other household items and souveniers. There are also a lot of cafes and courtyards set up for meals.
The narrow little alleyways are quiet. It doesn’t feel abandoned (like it does at the souqs when all the stalls are closed), it feels sleepy like a neighbourhood still lazing around in its pajamas. I poke my head into one of the courtyards that is part of a boutique hotel. There are some people having breakfast, it is completely picturesque. They are not in their pajamas, but I bet they would be if they could.
I wander around some more. The street art is also magnificent. A day peering out mysteriously from behind her burqa. This particular traditional Bedouin style burqa is worn only by married women to signal they are taken. It is made of a coated leather or canvas – metallic color on one side, the other side, the side that sits close to the skin, is coated in indigo dye. The indigo was originally to make the skin appear shinier but the harsh climate and extreme heat often meant it left blue or purple streaks around the eyes, nose and cheeks. Today the masks are sometimes still worn by the elders but few of the younger generation wear them, preferring the fabric covers and more modern styles.
Another full wall mural is of a woman (outside of the photograph, to the left) and a fish. My guess is that it makes reference to the pearl diving history of the region but there are no signs or explanation. It’s striking nonetheless.
I make my way back the the SMCCU, take my shoes off as instructed and seat myself on one of the low cushions. It looks like breakfast may have already been laid out in the middle of the seating but it is not served yet and as we await our host, I get chatting to a lady from New Zealand visiting with her son. She lived here for a few years until 2005 and has noticed many changes on her current visit. She tells me some stories of when she was teaching at an Emirati girls’ school and it sounds fascinating. Given that we live in a very expat community and the UAE Nationals only consist of approximately 10% of the population here, this seems unsurprising. I haven’t met many Emiratis at all, although I have only been here a relatively short time.
Our host arrives and we are served coffee in tiny cups. The cups are filled only a small amount so that you can hold them without burning your fingers as there are no handles. It also means they can be refilled frequently to ensure your coffee is hot when you drink it. The coffee is made from green beans which are slightly roasted, until they are just light brown and it is flavored with cardamom and saffron and served with dates to provide the sweetness. Historically, coffee was served by a deaf mute, a servant of the household, to ensure that no conversational secrets could be overheard or shared. Nowadays it is served by the youngest male of the family, out of respect for the women, they do not have to serve coffee to males outside of their family circle.
Then we are on to breakfast. Various dishes have been prepared and are now uncovered. It is all Emirati food, varying in tradition. Bedouin tribes and during the pearl diving days, breakfast was more likely to include meat and a heartier start to the day as the day was long and the next meal might be a long time away. Our dishes this morning are traditional of the past 30 years or so and although wouldn’t usually be served all at once, we are able to sample them all today.
I start with the chick peas, some scrambled eggs cooked with tomatoes and herbs and sweet vermicelli noodles with saffron and an omlette on top. The chickpeas are a little plain and don’t appeal to me personally for breakfast but the eggs are delicious and I scoop them up with some of the lovely yeasty flat bread as the floor is opened up for questions.
For the next hour or so we discuss tradition, the rules of men and women, dress and dress codes, cultural etiquette and of course, religion. During this time I also try the pancakes and specially made doughnuts drizzled with dates syrup and served with a tangy cream cheese. These are especially delicious and I make room for a second helping, promising myself I’ll skip lunch to make up for the indulgence.
During this time our host explains wearing an abaya (long robe worn by women) and a burqa (head covering), about the choices that Muslim women have and how they are generally comfortable with the few restrictions placed on them (no different to many cultures). She demonstrates the full burqua, joking that it’s great if you don’t feel like putting makeup on or if you want to avoid someone in particular at the shops that day. She takes the tie to explain that the abaya is also generally a matter of choice and has both religious and cultural aspects. The main religious aspect is to hide the figure – for the purposes of modesty, to avoid unwanted male attention and to make the wearer feel closer to God (Allah). The Emirati women are also proud to wear it as a cultural status symbol “[A]fter all” our host declares “if everyone wears jeans and a t-shirt all the time, we might as well be in London or New York. This is part of our identity and our culture and it sets us apart from the rest of the world”. It’s true. I love being out and about in Dubai and seeing the Emiratis in their abayas (women) and crisp white dishdashas (men). I enjoy seeing Indians in their colorful saris with the little choli tops and a dupatta scarf, the Omani men are distinctive in their kumas (or kummas). There are many more examples. It makes feel like I am living somewhere special and different. It makes it real that I am living somewhere special and different. Where all cultures truly come together and differences are celebrated, rather than being treated as a threat.
At the end we are invited to try on an abaya and there is more conversation as the group dissipates. I leave feeling enlightened (and full!) knowing that I will be back, with friends in tow, for them to experience the Emirati hospitality and to have some of their curiosity satisfied. Afterall, as the saying (motto of the SMCCU) goes “Open doors, open minds”.
Would I Return?
Yes. Al Fahidi is a wonderful experience for tourists and locals alike.
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